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@vectormatic you have chosen the best version of engine for small size project which is possible to be 5 studs long (+ one stud for axle)... For years I have tried to develop independent suspension for John Deere 8 series, but I think so etching like much smaller version of rear 8860 suspension is doable; question is only wether this solution suits you 

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@I_Igor

8860 style suspenion doesnt seem doable within 15 studs to me (H-frame with 2 u-joints + axle carries on either side is 13, and axle carriers dont fit inside the wheel, so width ends up at 17), but i dont mind, as that suspension style is poorly suited for a porsche anyway.

And i know the engine is probably the best choice for something in this scale, it is still going to be a tight fit, but when i was thinking of a small-scale porsche, the cayman was an obvious choice due to its short engine, and engine location. Maybe something like a mazda mx5 would be doable as well, with an I4 between the front wheels, but i havent done the math on that one.

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On one moc I just didn't put any link on differential side, just run axle directly in. As it also was sports car with small suspension travel, it worked pretty ok.

I think, You need to take some picture and create MOC topic

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2 hours ago, vectormatic said:

@I_Igor

8860 style suspenion doesnt seem doable within 15 studs to me (H-frame with 2 u-joints + axle carries on either side is 13, and axle carriers dont fit inside the wheel, so width ends up at 17), but i dont mind, as that suspension style is poorly suited for a porsche anyway.

And i know the engine is probably the best choice for something in this scale, it is still going to be a tight fit, but when i was thinking of a small-scale porsche, the cayman was an obvious choice due to its short engine, and engine location. Maybe something like a mazda mx5 would be doable as well, with an I4 between the front wheels, but i havent done the math on that one.

Through weekend I hope that I'll have time to try it and upload solution (if I managed to make something meaningful) in axle collection tread

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@vectormatic not sure what you have against floating diff in comparison to this, but here's that 8860 suspension within 15 studs. Personally I don't like it as the wheels camber while suspension is in action. Shocks not mounted, but it's not like there's room for standard ones (images are click-to-enlarge)

20190704_181037.jpg_thumb.jpg 20190704_181241.jpg_thumb.jpg 20190704_182023.jpg_thumb.jpg 

Edited by syclone

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@syclone i think that for car that @vectormatic us building rear suspension travel is very small, so I can think your suggestion is very good. My idea is a bit different with CV Joint so axle + wheel could not fall out so easily. 

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@syclone that looks decent, althought 8860 uses u-joints to increase the possible angle. I am with you on the dislike of the wheels cambering though.

As for not going down the 8860 or floating diff routes, i want to make a sportscar, and imho a rigid connection between the two wheels isnt suited for that concept on a modern sportscar. My GF actually has a car with 8860 style suspension, and that is a 1971 fiat 600, the only thing it has in common with anything sporty is that just like a 911, the engine is at the back :D

I know packing as many features into a model is the technic moc way, but i feel like having steering and a fake engine in the right place is a good place to start, adding suspension or a gearbox, while adding authenticity in some areas would compromise others.

 

EDIT: thinking about it, i dont know the suspension travel on a modern porsche, but translated to 1:14 scale it cant be more then a few mm in realistic usage, perhaps using floating diff and torque sprung double wishbone would be more then adequate. Still, id rather keep things simple for now

Edited by vectormatic

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@rm8 did a video showing that control+ motors work with the powered up battery box and controller

He also shows the new planetary hubs working with the thin technic rims from the 42009.

 

Edited by SNIPE

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A Harley Davidson Motorcycle on the Creator theme has been leaked and there are two interesting things:

Wider motorcycle tyre and wheel

New piston/engine parts (Well, I have never seen anything like that before)

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I immediately noticed the wider rear tire as well, and cannot wait to get one for my superbike. It looks to be the same size and tread pattern as 8420 I think so hopefully it fits existing rims.

 

The chosen rims for this set are not that appealing to me and I would have preferred a V-Rod/Night Rod Special set instead but whatever. There's just so much gray plastic to look at whereas the real bike has chrome.

Edited by therealjustin

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yeah, the driveline is probably brick-built out of currently existing parts, creator would be an extremely illogical place to introduce new fake engine parts, especially when existing parts would suffice for a harley engine, so something brick-built makes much more sense.

It looks pretty cool as a harley set, but those closed wheels look pretty useless for non-classic-chopper bike purposes, and considering i dont care much about harleys, ill be giving it a pass

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3 hours ago, vectormatic said:

but those closed wheels look pretty useless for non-classic-chopper bike purposes

Yeah - I assume the existing rims will fit as well (e.g. the rear could just be two rims side by side maybe?)

I'm guessing there's a brake disc or something on the other side of the front wheel, given the LBG pin there?

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Yep, definitely. I'm curious which piece they used for the disc.

After thinking it over, this could be a pretty cool set to go with my Technic bikes. It's in the same scale and $90 is not bad at all for such a large motorcycle.

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Did anyone found out dimensions of rims in Harley Davidson Fatboy?

There are lots of videos like this but could not find rim dimensions...

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Watching the review of Racing Rick, for me they seem identical in diameter, width, and usage:

@kbalage can you confirm? 

 

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Thanks @agrof it looks like it has the same diameter and the front tire us from earlier Technic motorbikes... I think with this connector it would be more stiffer than with pins...perhaps it could be used in future in Technic with eventual new big tire...

 

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I have a question, does anybody know why these two parts are different ? I wasn't able to find any information about it. And I'm sure it's not a damaged part.

800x533.jpg
 The "open" one has 1-01 written on it whereas the "closed" one has 2-01 written on it.
800x533.jpg

The thing I don't understand is that they both come from the same set : 8856
1000x800.jpg?1558354315.7808692

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It's just a molding issue, like this helmet, or that leg. That sort of thing happened to me once, one of the tread links from a 8259 was "incomplete", as if there weren't enough plastic injected in the mold. I'm sure I still have it somewhere, so I'll make a pic if I find it.

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The end could be broken or cut off.  the 1-01 and 2-01 is just a mold designation from which cavity it was molded to track down problems if they arise.  Most molds make many pieces at once so without the cavity # it would make finding issues with one part very difficult.

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I don't know if it was mentioned or I just missed, but regarding this C+, Boost, etc. thing, it would have been easier to have a System motor family and a Technic one. And the two names, PUp and C+ and that's all. Instead, we are bamboozled:laugh:

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Okay thanks for the answers.
To be honest as you have said that it's probably a mold issue, it seems totally logic to me. I didn't thought about it :blush:

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How to connect new hub with normal axle

finishassembly.jpghowtoassembly.jpg

Just use new type 8tooth gear. You must align the swivel of the CV joint to the groove of the gear.

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23 hours ago, msk6003 said:

 

finishassembly.jpg

This just gave me an idea, if you change the connectors a bit, can you then mesh a 24 tooth gear to the 8 tooth gear?

Youl will lose a little torque and gain some speed but at least it will now work like a portal hub :D

Edited by SNIPE

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