rogul Posted May 24, 2014 Posted May 24, 2014 Hi guys my track is in dire need of 7860 stop lights and a decoupler 7862 would be nice. Now clearly ebay and bricklink have them at insane prices. Does anyone have any suggestions as to any other places to look? Being in Australia... it seems pretty hard to find any of this stuff let alone at am affordable price Rogul Quote
peterab Posted May 24, 2014 Posted May 24, 2014 These things are now rare and collectable. Hence the Bricklink prices. Your best chance for a bargain is a bulk lot from someone who doesn't know their value on ebay, but you'll probably have to search long and hard. I wouldn't worry about the decoupler, I've heard from people who have it, that it is not very reliable. Quote
JopieK Posted May 24, 2014 Posted May 24, 2014 indeed, a decoupler is not very good at all, I always wanted it as a kid, as an adult I got one and I was rather disappointed! There are alternatives for stopping lights of course (like DIY). Quote
zephyr1934 Posted May 24, 2014 Posted May 24, 2014 There are alternatives for stopping lights of course (like DIY). Indeed, check out this thread for plenty of inspiration. Though don't be intimidated, you can do a lot with a bit of tape to isolate track sections and a couple of pole reversers to power/de-power your blocks, e.g., here. Quote
rogul Posted May 24, 2014 Author Posted May 24, 2014 cheers zephr, dont mind giving that a go either makes it more interesting! the hardest part in all this is just getting enough lego to finish things building ramps and the like take up so much lego, and having different colors pilons well, its not cool hehe :) Quote
AlmightyArjen Posted May 25, 2014 Posted May 25, 2014 (edited) The 12 light bricks, you can make them by yourself if you know how to solder. Take a 2x3 brick, drill two holes in it where you can stick the LED's in. Then hollow out the back side of the brick and you'll have room for the resistors. Then you get something like this: I believe that the original brick has a connection for two wires. That means that you have to connect the LED's in antiparallel. The LED's need a 20mA current so when you connect them at 12V, you should use 560 ohms serial resistors (plus or minus 10% is no problem). When you're done, you could glue a 1x3 plate on the back of the 2x3 brick, so you can click it on the old 12V poles. Maybe I should make a Youtube instruction for it some day :) Edited May 25, 2014 by AlmightyArjen Quote
1974 Posted May 25, 2014 Posted May 25, 2014 There's no need for the LEDs to run at more than 5-10mA, so up the resistor a factor 2 to 4. They'll last decades that way. Note, some LEDs are low power types (1-2mA) and will blow up with a 560-2k resistor You might also think about joining a local LUG and ask if there are members who wants to sell 12V parts. LEGO nerds tend to not make (loads) of money of other LEGO nerds Maybe you get lucky and find a member who wants to offload a 12V collection and get into PF. I sold all PF and went back to 4,5/9/12V, so I know it happens (sold +500 track pieces for less than half the going rate) Cheers, Ole Quote
rogul Posted May 26, 2014 Author Posted May 26, 2014 Dads retired, ex radio and tv station install in outback OZ in the 70's.. sounds like a project for him!!!! :) Quote
Gioppa Posted May 28, 2014 Posted May 28, 2014 Search for me on flickr... If you like 12v at the name bulloganassa... And you know were is all the signal and the decupler... Quote
LEGO Train 12 Volts Posted May 28, 2014 Posted May 28, 2014 Search for me on flickr... If you like 12v at the name bulloganassa... And you know were is all the signal and the decupler... LOL Quote
rogul Posted May 29, 2014 Author Posted May 29, 2014 Search for me on flickr... If you like 12v at the name bulloganassa... And you know were is all the signal and the decupler... hand them over u bastard!! Quote
naboo Posted May 29, 2014 Posted May 29, 2014 (edited) There is a German instruction on how to make the black 2*3 signal stones here: http://www.carlegler.de/signal.htm Edited May 29, 2014 by naboo Quote
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