garethjellis Posted April 5, 2014 Posted April 5, 2014 I cant use the traditional magnet coupling for my model as to keep it scale the bogies are fairly far back from the front of back of the train. What would be great to see is you ideas, solutions to other couplings that the magnets. Quote
Duq Posted April 5, 2014 Posted April 5, 2014 There are various solution with all sorts of Technic pieces. Just to get you started: https://www.flickr.com/search/groups/?w=1353660%40N21&m=pool&q=coupling Quote
garethjellis Posted April 6, 2014 Author Posted April 6, 2014 Duq, that's excellent, thank you for sharing, Quote
dr_spock Posted April 6, 2014 Posted April 6, 2014 (edited) I used a Technic liftarm for a semi-permanent coupling: Or just a simple Technic axle with stop to join my articulated cars: What does your model look like? Edited April 6, 2014 by dr_spock Quote
Spitfire2865 Posted April 9, 2014 Posted April 9, 2014 (edited) I designed a non purist buffer and chain coupling. Although the wire I used for the chain loops wasnt ideal. Thin piano wire would work. It requires a modification of a pirate hook, but is fairly strong if the train is designed around it. The hook is pushed into a flex tube which is in 3 bricks with cross axle holes, but if the tube ran the length of the wagon, it would resist pulling out, much like the drawbar works on the full sized ones. The only issue with this design if done right is buffer locking, but thats due to the curve radius, not the design. Chain coupling by Trevor B Young, on Flickr Edited April 11, 2014 by Spitfire2865 Quote
kieran Posted April 9, 2014 Posted April 9, 2014 Looks good only issue is that you have to make all the connections right? You can't shunt with out touching the trains, is that right Quote
Spitfire2865 Posted April 9, 2014 Posted April 9, 2014 Looks good only issue is that you have to make all the connections right? You can't shunt with out touching the trains, is that right That is true. You could still add a magnet under the hook to match with normal magnetic couplings. That would work for a fixed rake, and would allow hands off coupling. Quote
locoworks Posted April 10, 2014 Posted April 10, 2014 with all the 3D printing available these days it should be fairly straight forward for someone to come up with draft box that takes kadee O gauge knuckle couplers and sets then to the correct height from a common height below standard footplate height of lego trains. better still would be the standard lego buffers/coupling piece with the coupling section remoulded into a draft box to take a kadee coupling. this way it just fits where lego have fitted their own magnetic couplers. maybe use just a draft box for the front of steamers. Quote
Dan-147 Posted April 10, 2014 Posted April 10, 2014 (edited) with all the 3D printing available these days it should be fairly straight forward for someone to come up with draft box that takes kadee O gauge knuckle couplers and sets then to the correct height from a common height below standard footplate height of lego trains. better still would be the standard lego buffers/coupling piece with the coupling section remoulded into a draft box to take a kadee coupling. this way it just fits where lego have fitted their own magnetic couplers. maybe use just a draft box for the front of steamers. No need for a 3D printer. The standard Kadee 806 O gauge draft box can easily be attached to a 3 x 2 plate with hole using a #2 screw and nut plus a few small parts; Here's an example mounted on my MOC locomotives and freight cars; My bogie design places the 3 x 2 plate with hole one plate higher than the hole would be on a buffer beam. The bottom pins on the coupler would then have to be bent upwards (Kadee sells a special plyer for this) but otherwise, the installation is the same. Dan-147 Edited April 10, 2014 by Dan-147 Quote
legoboy3998 Posted April 11, 2014 Posted April 11, 2014 (edited) I do almost the exact same thing as Dan-147. Although, I use a washer as the spacer as opposed to the tube, and my 2x3 plate is mounted in the place were the traditional LEGO buffer goes. So it makes it essentially a drop in replacement, but the draft gear box is a little too long on the back end, so I need to cut a notch in the wheel holder. When the NMRA national convention was in town a few years ago, I talked to the Kadee rep. He said, a few years before, some LEGO fans had come to them with the idea of having Kadde produce a coupler for LEGO trains. The rep said Kadee was interested and willing to come up with something, but the LEGO fans seemed to loose interest, and with that Kadee figured there was not much market. It sounded to me like if the idea was presented again, and there was sufficient interest from the community, Kadee might be interested in trying again. It did kinda sound like Kadee wanted the LEGO fans to come up with the design, but that would not be tough. Sal WFB, WI Edited April 11, 2014 by legoboy3998 Quote
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