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Posted

Hi everyone, just a question for anyone who's got experience with old monorails. Sadly, over the years, my motor's switch seems to have become a little sticky, and the train won't bounce properly at the monoswitches.

The straight-through function still works well, and the complete-stop function also works, though it doesn't necessarily stop properly inside the switch. However, it's the bounce not working that's particularly troublesome, as it means I have to build only loop lines or constantly restart the train manually.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make the motor switch itself move a little easier? Or any ideas on how to make the monoswitches function as they should?

Below is a picture, where I hope you can see that the black switch on the motor is getting stuck up against the 45 degree sides of the monoswitch, instead of going inside and then reversing direction.

post-118849-0-34379200-1391715547_thumb.jpg

I've also got a video up on Youtube which shows more clearly failed bounces from a few angles, and also successful bounces. It fails a lot more often than it works unfortunately.

This forum is an incredible resources for all sorts of fixes and information, and if someone could point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated!

Posted

I would guess the switch is stiff with grime and dust in the motor housing. The stopping a bit past the switch happens with all of my motors. I have 3 and they all do it.

Posted

I've said this countless times on here, but I swear by it. WD-40 is safe to use on LEGO and electrical switches without causing a short. It will not stain, wipes off easy, shines up parts a bit. There is a slight smell because it's petroleum based, but unless it's right up to your face, you shouldn't notice. I use it once a year to shoot our industrial garage door switches. Our garage has a lot of traffic and stirs up a bit of dust. If you are still uncomfortable using plain WD-40, they also make it specifically for electrical contacts :classic:

Posted

I would guess the switch is stiff with grime and dust in the motor housing. I have 3 and they all do it.

Hi Kieran, I've got the same problem. All three of my motors usually stick when I try the bounce back.

I've said this countless times on here, but I swear by it. WD-40 is safe to use on LEGO and electrical switches without causing a short. It will not stain, wipes off easy, shines up parts a bit. If you are still uncomfortable using plain WD-40, they also make it specifically for electrical contacts :classic:

Thanks, the advice is appreciated. I'll look around the monorail motor, and see about spray points.

WD40 or CRC in NZ, I use on my 9v switchs Its awsome stuff.

Do you use those on the 9v Y-switches? I'll have to go look up CRC, but may try WD-40, on my monoswitches.

Posted

I have my normal 9v LH and RH motorized and due to low torque motors on them to keep the size very small i need to stop as much resistance as possible. I found with out any lube the motors had issues even after removing the stock resistance. But even some of the stock 9v switches i have bought are very tight so i bet just some CRC on a none motorized switch would switch easier.

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