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Posted

What bit? Maybe it's just the perspective... can you make me a pic of what is not right in your view?

Those hubs are still in the prototype phase. I'm having ideas of my own and i want the suggestions of others to see what the final product will be. I'm pretty sure i'll need at least 2 more revisions before this can be finalised.

I'm not selling those. It's just a concept for now.

Posted

Keep up the good work. I'm not that into making proper suspensions since i usually care more for the rest of the model and also because i'm not really into cars but this is starting to make me interested in building proper suspensions so i eagerly await this thing to be completed so i can buy a couple. :wink:

Posted

In the first picture there's a bit sticking out around the center hole, it looks like it was removed now though so it should be easier to mount, if you take a tiny bit off the ball sockets it should be slacker for the steering. are you selling any of these?

v31wfa.jpg

The lip round the middle hole

The hub carrier (stator) has been made 1 stud wide. It made no sense for it to be 1.5 studs wide. This would just limit its use too much.

Posted

Very interesting stuff, just a quick question: What kind of tires are you using for this? Are they readily available or will those have to be specially manufactured as well?

Posted

I think it might be a good idea to make rims that fit e.g. 1/8 scale R/C tires. These rims look like they can fit 1/8 scale R/C tires, and if LEGO doesn't end up producing the parts, at least the community has 3rd party parts.

Posted

Yeah. I happen to have some r/c tires here, but they make the wheel bigger than the unimog wheel unfortunately.

The goal with this rim/tire was to make it no bigger than unimog size, but with a low profile/big inset design. If you find any tires of approximately that size, let me know.

One viable alternative is however to take some conrad wheels and either steel the solid rubber tires from them or replace the wheel centers with p2 pulley wheels.

Posted

The ball socket on a wheel hub needs to remain as a ball socket. By having both a ball socket hole and a axle hole in one design, has thinned out that axle hole inside the socket and that make the axle hole a weak friction connection with the other wheel hub designs out there.

This is here for comparison93571.jpg

v31wfa.jpg

Posted

The ball socket on a wheel hub needs to remain as a ball socket. By having both a ball socket hole and a axle hole in one design, has thinned out that axle hole inside the socket and that make the axle hole a weak friction connection with the other wheel hub designs out there.

This is here for comparison93571.jpg

Has anyone tryed using those parts to make a hub?

Granted it will not be as good as what Nicjesno's custom design.

Posted

For applications where an axle is used, use axles 1 stud longer and half bushes if you need the axle to stay put by frction.

I don't think it is a problem, the axle hole provides a lot of options.

Posted

Has anyone tryed using those parts to make a hub?

Granted it will not be as good as what Nicjesno's custom design.

I have, see mustang front suspension :)

Also, we do want the sockets to have a bit less friction than the normal bionicle sockets, because they have too much friction for suspension components.

Posted

For applications where an axle is used, use axles 1 stud longer and half bushes if you need the axle to stay put by frction.

I don't think it is a problem, the axle hole provides a lot of options.

The forces that is going to be put into this wheel hub will rip apart that axle connection when you think about. He is wanting to reduces the thickness of the axle hole for a ball socket. Designs matter, If you want to have a ball socket to have the optimal hold over the ball joint, do you think that over time having a axle that is able to go in and out that axle hole is not going to spread that hole out weakening the ball socket connection as well.

I made a ball socket wheel hub.

visual_001.jpg

Posted (edited)

The ball socket in the latest version is moved 1/2 stud closer to the center on each side if you haven't noticed. This makes the socket much sturdier, and if necessary it can be further strenghtened, so no worries.

This is the latest version, just so you know what i'm talking about:

18.jpg

Edited by nicjasno
Posted

The forces that is going to be put into this wheel hub will rip apart that axle connection when you think about. He is wanting to reduces the thickness of the axle hole for a ball socket. Designs matter, If you want to have a ball socket to have the optimal hold over the ball joint, do you think that over time having a axle that is able to go in and out that axle hole is not going to spread that hole out weakening the ball socket connection as well.

With its cross design with dual holes is pretty easy to reinforce the arm if necessary, so no, I do not think that over time it will break. Is just a matter of understanding the part design, the forces involved and using it properly.

Posted (edited)

That is good!

Exactly. The tires are 96 mm in diameter compared to the Unimog's 94.3.

That is good. Do you happen to know the inner diameter , so we can readjust the rim dimensions? Also, what kind of edge does it have? If its anything like on the tires i used for the challenger, then it's a soft edge that needs to be glued to the rim.

Edited by nicjasno
Posted

The material in the ball socket behind the ball has no real impact on the friction a ball will have in there. And surely it should be made with a play, though as low friction as possible.

But the hub design will never work. To get a ball into the socket, the material of the two half-beams has to bend way too much. A material that can handle such short lasting but very high deformation, can't at the same time include cross holes, that has way different demands to the material used.

But it's interesting to see you guys having ideas about designs. I'm the Technical Designer for the 2015 Technic parts. My first year in the Technic team. I hope to have more influence of what parts will appear in 2016. RIght now I'm just working on the stuff the set designers has developed.

Erland

Part Design

Posted

The material in the ball socket behind the ball has no real impact on the friction a ball will have in there. And surely it should be made with a play, though as low friction as possible.

But the hub design will never work. To get a ball into the socket, the material of the two half-beams has to bend way too much. A material that can handle such short lasting but very high deformation, can't at the same time include cross holes, that has way different demands to the material used.

But it's interesting to see you guys having ideas about designs. I'm the Technical Designer for the 2015 Technic parts. My first year in the Technic team. I hope to have more influence of what parts will appear in 2016. RIght now I'm just working on the stuff the set designers has developed.

Erland

Part Design

Should you really be telling us that? :look:

Posted (edited)

The material in the ball socket behind the ball has no real impact on the friction a ball will have in there. And surely it should be made with a play, though as low friction as possible.

But the hub design will never work. To get a ball into the socket, the material of the two half-beams has to bend way too much. A material that can handle such short lasting but very high deformation, can't at the same time include cross holes, that has way different demands to the material used.

But it's interesting to see you guys having ideas about designs. I'm the Technical Designer for the 2015 Technic parts. My first year in the Technic team. I hope to have more influence of what parts will appear in 2016. RIght now I'm just working on the stuff the set designers has developed.

Erland

Part Design

If bending is the problem, then we can make the "entry" holes for the ball joints a bit bigger, so the balls slide in with an acceptable level of bending. The bionicle ball sockets also requite some bending of the material, so this isn't an unsolvable issue.

Victor Kojenov:

Those tires will not do. They have no edge that would sit in a rim. They need to be glued to a special r/c rim.

Edited by nicjasno
Posted (edited)

If bending is the problem, then we can make the "entry" holes for the ball joints a bit bigger, so the balls slide in with an acceptable level of bending. The bionicle ball sockets also requite some bending of the material, so this isn't an unsolvable issue.

Some kind of guide yes, that allows the ball to slide in, but does not make the ball jump out again too easy.

Edited by Front
Posted

If the part is asymetric as to allow an easy insert of the ball from one side but not from the other? That way it can be inserted and rotated 180 degrees to face tension from the tight side

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