How to keep Miliput from sticking to LEGO (while sculpting)

[RoyalBrickCustoms]

Hey guys,

Do any of the more experienced sculptors of the MCW know how I can sculpt minifig-size parts (to be used on/with the fig) using Miliput, and then remove them (from the fig while they cure.

I wanted to make some vambraces, but the putty keeps sticking to the fig, when I try to remove it.

Any advise and help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

~RBC

[Dr Leg O Brick]

I'm interested to see a response, I use Miliput for action figure customs and have long considered using it for Minifigures.

Edited January 7, 2014 by Dr Leg O Brick

[Piratedave84]

Never tried this with Lego but when I want to sculpt something for my warhammers that needs to be removed after, I either use oil (canola or vegetable) or cling/Saran-wrap

[Darkdragon]

Most people use a layer of foil under. It's even in one of the tutorials here and I've seen it mentioned in various sculpting tutorials in books and online. Oil could probably work but it might damage the material at some point (depending on material and curing style, i'd imagine), of course the lego is safe though it might be difficult to clean off completely.

[WaysofSorting]

I don't know how Milliput compares to the two part epoxy "greenstuff" in properties...so this may not be helpful:

But when I use the greenstuff traditionally for sculpting (Minis for wargames) a petroleum jelly (very very light coating) allowed for separation later and for keeping my sculpting tools from sticking to the material. Of course, it also means what you are trying to sculpt may slide all around the LEGO part as well...Plus, everything seems to get greasy quick and I don't like the way it seems to contaminate everything it gets near.

I had some success with water-based lubricant - (Ask a pharmacist, but don't be surprised if they bring you KY Jelly) - mainly because it was much easier to clean the tools and surface after sculpting and in between steps. I just washed it off...

[Bobskink]

Most people use a layer of foil under.

jup, that is what I do. I also always sculpt on old figures who don't mind to be damaged.

[Concore]

-Use old parts that can be trashed if needs be.

-Use cling film pulled tight to avoid any creases that will disfigure you sculpt. Tin/Aluminium foil can be too thick when working with minifigure parts, it also creases rather than stretch which means it doesn't keep flush to the LEGO part, unike film.

-You could sculpt straight onto a old part, wait for the Milliput to fully dry out and harden, then heat up the sculpt, both pieces should become a bit more supple and you can prise them apart. Obviously, don't burn yourself. ^_^

-If you're after multiple part, you could always knock up a mold and cast from it.

Edited January 8, 2014 by Concore