Technic Black Parts

[Doc_Brown]

Black is awesome! But hard to see finer details, but sometimes that is what you want to create the illusion that the detail is or could be there.

[Erik Leppen]

The main davantage of black is that everyone has enough of it. The main disadvantage is that it's hard to see. I hate working with black in the evening, when I only have artificial light. In daylight there's much less of a problem.

Also, two of the most useful Technic parts, and are only available in light gray, which doesn't look very nice in an otherwise black model.

I tend to build in mainly light gray whenever possible, but I particuarly like building colorfully, especially on the inside of things I tend to throw some random colors to the mix for easy differentiation.

Here's a good example: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/ErikLeppen/FailedProjects/StudlessAc70City/studlessac70cityfailed_013.jpg

Or this: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/ErikLeppen/FailedProjects/NavyBlue5AxleCrane/navy5axledrivencrane_029.jpg

When designing in MLCAD I choose one color for every specific part. E.g. all 3 x 3 x 0.5 beams are blue; all 6 x 0.5 beams are lime, etc. Only when I'm done do I change all non-visible parts to some sort of default color, usually light gray, to make it look nicer.

[aol000xw]

More mocs please.

Sure, go ahead and post a few!

Not everyone is here just to see other people MOCs, or get instructions, free or not. So thanks for beign tolerant. I am grateful that I don't need to participate or read every other thread and can focus on ejoying eurobricks the way I like it: Discussing anything Technic.

That is why for me general technic and WIP threads are of greater value than MOCs.

Anyways while I wait for your new MOCs and beign broadly interested in Technic, I will enjoy the reflections and advices from fellow members regarding the use of black parts in technic. After all anything learnt from these threads is useful in my Technic endeavours and is appreciated.

[JGW3000]

From a photography standpoint, black is not an issue as the parts have a shine too them and so provide some contrasting highlights. I photographed a mostly black MOC last night, using a mild level of diffusion on two hot lights, with a white card for back-fill. I bracketed the exposure +/- 2 stops, with a 1/2 stop overall overexposure, to make sure that at least one of the three images was useful. A bit of curves adjustment, in Photoshop, also helps to unblock the shadows on the black parts. I would recommend not using a light background, which I unfortunately did, a neutral 18% photo-grey background will work best, as long as any grey parts don't merge into the background.

Having instructions or LDD files with many different colors is also very helpful when designing and building, especially for old eyes like mine

[aol000xw]

From a photography standpoint, black is not an issue as the parts have a shine too them and so provide some contrasting highlights. I photographed a mostly black MOC last night, using a mild level of diffusion on two hot lights, with a white card for back-fill. I bracketed the exposure +/- 2 stops, with a 1/2 stop overall overexposure, to make sure that at least one of the three images was useful. A bit of curves adjustment, in Photoshop, also helps to unblock the shadows on the black parts. I would recommend not using a light background, which I unfortunately did, a neutral 18% photo-grey background will work best, as long as any grey parts don't merge into the background.

Hmm, difussion, hot lights, exposure... for most of us you are describing a big issue with black photography.

[DrJB]

Hmm, difussion, hot lights, exposure... for most of us you are describing a big issue with black photography.

I guess my P&S (Point&Shoot) camera does not qualify for the job then ... Wonder if I can justify a new SLR for christmas ....

[Lipko]

You can get along with crap equipment and lighting too with some brightness/contrast adjusting of the images. So it's not the actual implementation of photo making is the issue in my opinion. You can make all details visible on black models too, but it doesn't look as good (in my opinion) as it looks with a different color. You have to look more carefully to find the details, or I don't know why.

Edited December 18, 2013 by Lipko

[Hrafn]

The main advantage of black is that everyone has enough of it. The main disadvantage is that it's hard to see. I hate working with black in the evening, when I only have artificial light. In daylight there's much less of a problem.

Also, two of the most useful Technic parts, and are only available in light gray, which doesn't look very nice in an otherwise black model.

I agree entirely, though I'd add that sometimes black's being hard to see can be an advantage - sometimes you want to hide certain things. I like the chassis to be dark and dull so it doesn't compete visually with the bodywork, but dark gray would work just as well and would be easier to work with. Sadly I have only a few pieces in that color, and loads of black.

[DrJB]

One thing for sure, the 'joints/gaps' between parts get blurred when using black, and provide for a 'smooth' vehicle/lines.

I bet if I were to rebuild Madoka's SUV in white, all the surface gaps/openings would be rather distracting. SO, in this case, Black is good, as it smooths out gaps between the various parts.

[JGW3000]

While I am using semi-pro photography gear, you can get good results with house hold items. I prefer continuous (hot) lights over flash as I can more easily control shadows and highlights.

Hot lights - two 60 watt bulbs in two reflectors, get them from Home Depot / Wallwart for $5 each or so (remember to set the camera balance to tungsten, or something else next year when you can't buy these tungsten lights anymore)

Diffusers - tissue paper or thin cotton cloth over the lights, just don't let them catch fire

If you use a neutral grey background, autoexposure should work fine

Exposure times may be long, so a steady camera support is very helpful, a tripod or friendly shoulder.

The good aspect of digital photography is that you can take a zillion images and get immediate gratification and feedback.

Edited December 18, 2013 by JGW3000

[aol000xw]

The good aspect of digital photography is that you can take a zillion images and get immediate gratification and feedback.

Let me fix that for you:

The bad aspect of digital photography is that you can take a zillion images and get immediate frustation and feedback.

Yup thta sounds more like it when I am holding a camera.

Anyways what key parts for chassis are unavailable at the moment? Those two frames, both unimog and 42000 hubs, the new bone frame.. anything else?

[Lipko]

That 3x3 L frame thing with built in pins, the similar 3L connector with built in pins.

The other way around: what parts are needed for a chassis but are not available in grey? I could use some steering links for the chassis I'm working on. Does the new +ooo+ part come in other than black?

Edited December 18, 2013 by Lipko

[torso]

Glad to hear that I'm not the only one avoiding black because it's hard to see. Mixing colours is distracting, so I try to only use LBG as far as possible. Right now I'm considering whether it is worth replacing the blue 3L friction pins with black ones, to reduce the number of colours. Not sure if it's worth the cost, or if it makes it easier to confuse them with the 2L pins.

As for the finished model, I will have to rebuild in proper colours. Haven't gotten that far yet though.

[dr_spock]

Black with dark grey and bley.

Picture 4945 by dr_spock_888, on Flickr

One problem with black is dust sticks out like a sore thumb and the models need regular cleaning.