[MOC] Rage Buggy

[z3_2drive]

On the rear axle, replace the two 4l black axles(going into new style hubs) with dark grey 4l with stop, and thus replace the 1/2 bushes with two stacked 3l thin liftarms (+o+) only on one side and a pin for the middle hole, like a 1.5l dark grey one. This will be much stronger and I just hate the use of 1/2 bushings as securing pieces

Edited September 25, 2013 by z3_2drive

[Technyk32231]

It's simple, really. Just add caster, and everything works better.

You're definitely going to break parts if you don't add a caster angle. I think if you can get that, you should go for 3:5 gearing, that will be much more fun.

Why would zero caster make it more likely to break parts?

[Lipko]

Another mistake is that the half-axles are longer than the wishbones, so the half-axles will be compressed when the suspension is not in the currently displayed straight position.

[clarkdef]

Why would zero caster make it more likely to break parts?

It won't because Lego is tough it will just bend or separate, but still you don't want any disharmony now do you

[JM1971]

Small update,

[Junpei]

That's looking better! Although I think you should use 5L axles to secure the shocks, I think they might just fall off if they are on axle pins.

[nicjasno]

I think the pins are much better than the axles. Nothing is going to fall off. Great idea. The axles will just create more slack in the suspension.

Edited September 25, 2013 by nicjasno

[Lipko]

I think the pins are much better than the axles. Nothing is going to fall off. Great idea. The axles will just create more slack in the suspension.

The front suspension is okay in that regard, but the rear is going to fall apart in the current setup. But it can be saved by using the same piece as for the kingpin holder in the front suspension.

Plus the half-axles are still longer than the wishbones.

Edited September 25, 2013 by Lipko

[skppo]

You could fit two 5-long half-beams to connect the upper and lower wishbones.

That would strengthen it noticeably. Also I'd personally use slightly larger wheels.

Otherwise really solid looking set-up

[nicjasno]

The front and rear mounts look the same to me. i see no danger of falling apart.

[clarkdef]

Will this move very fast though? Don't XLs need gearing up heaps, gearing it up may save those joints too!

[JM1971]

The XL's have too much torque to gear up without needing a clutch, I done that to a 41999 once and it was distorting the structure and rods were powdering, not recommended :P

I need to build this to go any further,

LDD file ... http://www41.zippyshare.com/v/16570768/file.html

[clarkdef]

The XL's have too much torque to gear up without needing a clutch, I done that to a 41999 once and it was distorting the structure and rods were powdering, not recommended :P

I need to build this to go any further,

LDD file ... http://www41.zippysh...70768/file.html

No you are referring to gearing down, gearing up will multiply the rpm and divide the torque.

[JM1971]

Gearing up put more strain on everything between the motor and wheels, lego cant handle too much of that, in a car you have a clutch and gears, imagine a powerful car trying to pull of in 5th gear with the clutch out and full revs, its a lot of strain.

[clarkdef]

Gearing up put more strain on everything between the motor and wheels, lego cant handle too much of that, in a car you have a clutch and gears, imagine a powerful car trying to pull of in 5th gear with the clutch out and full revs, its a lot of strain.

That's true if it were a combustion engine, but it isn't. Most electric cars have 1 gear and it goes all the way baby! They do this because unlike combustion the electric motor makes max torque at 0 rpm. The combustion engine starting in 5th gear, doesn't stress anything, it will just stall unless you ride the clutch which of coarse i never do...

Any way point noted, I actually don't have experience with the xl motor only the large motor, so ya I can't argue. So yes I will take your word for it

[JM1971]

Heres the XL vs the motor from the rock crawler, XL is nuts if you make a mistake parts will fly :P

http://www.flickr.com/photos/100055104@N08/9947984204/

[JM1971]

Transparency render, if I spent less time rendering then it would be done my now

[Doc_Brown]

Nice render tho! Worth the wait.

XL are tough man! I had 2 geared 1:3 on my hotrod, pulling 1.8kg! That was a good speed.

I maybe wrong but I think the diffs will need to be on the same side other wise the wheels will want to go in diff directions.

[cgg199]

The diffs need to be the opposite ways around or because of where the gears are meshing with them.

[JM1971]

Nice render tho! Worth the wait.

XL are tough man! I had 2 geared 1:3 on my hotrod, pulling 1.8kg! That was a good speed.

I maybe wrong but I think the diffs will need to be on the same side other wise the wheels will want to go in diff directions.

Your right, and I thought they were, quick fix.

Edited September 27, 2013 by JM1971

[JM1971]

I'm calling this finished, now its a case of waiting for parts, building, testing.

Speed wise it will be faster than a rock crawler but not by much, I've decided to play it safe so no parts wear or break.

Its all standard lego parts.

Thanks to all for support and advice, this site rocks!!!

Edited September 29, 2013 by JM1971

[pint14]

Start of the bodywork looks superb!! What about using bigger wheels?

[zux]

I feel like body needs some reinforcements in the middle, 4 mounting points might be not enough.

[JM1971]

Some more stuff added, its getting really hard to see a path from here, apart from mudguards :)

The real buggy has smaller wheels than this, I'll go though them all again to see if other look better.

Edited October 3, 2013 by JM1971

[JM1971]

Built and tested the front suspension and steering, works well.

Edited October 5, 2013 by JM1971