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Posted

I built the original chassis last night, the steering was a disaster, the gear box did well but popped a universal joint on the rear suspension, the geared up xl motors cause a lot of stress when accelerating, it was fast though.

The CV joints cant turn much before they start stuttering.

I thought about using a clutch gear to limit the torque.

Posted

I built the original chassis last night, the steering was a disaster, the gear box did well but popped a universal joint on the rear suspension, the geared up xl motors cause a lot of stress when accelerating, it was fast though.

The CV joints cant turn much before they start stuttering.

I thought about using a clutch gear to limit the torque.

To fix the CV joint problem, try these hubs. They use universal joints, but megablocks width. They may need tweaking, but they work very well. If you do use the idea, please mention me.

http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=526963

Posted

When I use LDD I never know whats going to happen, its all starts fine but after I take my prescription painkillers it kind of goes all wierd :)

Its too wide because the track rods are too long, its got no suspension because the universal joints are too weak to handle any real power, suspention in the middle because it seemed like the right thing to do at the time.

I'll build this design, see what works, and go from there :P

Posted

I've seen so many attempts of really fast cars on eurobricks an none of them seem to go to plan xD.

Except mine :devil: My next post will show a proper sturdy suspension capable of high torque and speeds definitely over 15kmh
Posted

How about dual live axles with the stock lego live axle parts? That will be very robust and only requires 2 u-joint and 2 CV joints total, assuming you'll be using CV's for the steering.

Posted

This looks very nice, simple designs are always the best! Always good to combine the two control arms together so they don't separate, also a center axle holder coming off the combiners is good to reduce axle flutter or tramping. A Buggy should also have it's front sub frame titled back so it makes contact with on coming bumps well.

Here is a work in progress buggy I am doing front end

9910222003_59d34a1b4f_c.jpg

Posted

How about dual live axles with the stock lego live axle parts? That will be very robust and only requires 2 u-joint and 2 CV joints total, assuming you'll be using CV's for the steering.

I got my heart set on independent suspension but if I cant do it that will be the next choice.

This looks very nice, simple designs are always the best! Always good to combine the two control arms together so they don't separate, also a center axle holder coming off the combiners is good to reduce axle flutter or tramping. A Buggy should also have it's front sub frame titled back so it makes contact with on coming bumps well.

I have to learn how to walk before I can run, what set is your steering from? those parts are not in LDD, your moc is looking very tasty.

Posted

Yes, at high speeds you always need a good caster angle. I too have those steering parts, they are this: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=32195b, this: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=x873c01. I have never used them as I would like to try to make more realistic suspensions, but it will be very strong, and perfect for something this size. :wink: However you may want to try to see if there is any way to avoid using it as they are hella expensive, especially if you're going to use them for all four wheels. :wacko:

Posted

Still no vertical reinforcements and I hope I misunderstand the way you attach the shock absorbers on the rear suspension (two axle-pins?).

Posted

I have to learn how to walk before I can run, what set is your steering from? those parts are not in LDD, your moc is looking very tasty.

Exactly! Those steering components are from http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?S=8466-1 You have to use those particular control arms to get any movement, but I was more referring to the angle of the subframe. It will give you increased castor :tongue:.

If you are building a hardcore super fast buggy! Castor is very important, the geometry will allow...

1. Natural return to center (while rolling this will be enhanced)

2. Camber change while steering and flattening out when returned to center

3. More efficient bump absorption

The benefit sometimes makes me weep uncontrollably :cry_happy:

Posted

What gearing are you using? The highest I've gone with an XL motor is 1:2.

20-12 in that pic, but now I'm connecting direct to the motor for the sake of not wearing out parts.

Still no vertical reinforcements and I hope I misunderstand the way you attach the shock absorbers on the rear suspension (two axle-pins?).

Stuff has yet to be moved around.

Exactly! Those steering components are from http://www.bricklink...em.asp?S=8466-1 You have to use those particular control arms to get any movement, but I was more referring to the angle of the subframe. It will give you increased castor :tongue:.

If you are building a hardcore super fast buggy! Castor is very important, the geometry will allow...

1. Natural return to center (while rolling this will be enhanced)

2. Camber change while steering and flattening out when returned to center

3. More efficient bump absorption

The benefit sometimes makes me weep uncontrollably :cry_happy:

I have no idea what that stuff is so for now I'm slowing it down before parts get broke :P

Posted

It's simple, really. Just add caster, and everything works better. :tongue:

You're definitely going to break parts if you don't add a caster angle. I think if you can get that, you should go for 3:5 gearing, that will be much more fun. :wink:

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