technicfan Posted May 10, 2013 Posted May 10, 2013 (edited) I am building a Cat E-Ject trailer for my hauler and am using worm gear setup to eject the plate to push the product out. I am using a studded beam with the teeth on top but the worm gear seems to be about 1/2 a millimetre to high so it won't grip the teeth. I am using studless parts for the rest. I am using the 1 x 5 x 11 plates for the bin and everything seems to be 1/2 to 1/4 of a stud out?. Edited May 10, 2013 by technicfan Quote
dhc6twinotter Posted May 10, 2013 Posted May 10, 2013 It sounds like the studded beam slides directly on top of a studless beam. If this is the case, your clearance will be off. My advice is to connect some studless beams on either side of your studded beam, and use the studless beams as the slide guides. You can then put a row of plates, followed by your 1x4 gear racks on top of the studded beams. Hope that helps. Quote
technicfan Posted May 10, 2013 Author Posted May 10, 2013 (edited) I was already using a 1x studded beam with 2x studless beams on either side. You are right It is sitting on 2x grey frames and the worm gear is 4 studs high. What plates did you mean?, having a look do you think it would work if I lay thin liftarms under the studdless ones?. Edited May 10, 2013 by technicfan Quote
Alasdair Ryan Posted May 10, 2013 Posted May 10, 2013 (edited) What about this? I think you are going to need to have the bracing on the out side. Edited May 10, 2013 by Alasdair Ryan Quote
dhc6twinotter Posted May 10, 2013 Posted May 10, 2013 The plates should go between the studded brick and gear racks, like this: (sorry about the large picture....photobucket is being dumb and won't let me resize) Quote
technicfan Posted May 11, 2013 Author Posted May 11, 2013 That setup is too tall to fit under the worm gear, I am trying to fit it into a small space. It also has a medium motor mounted directly on top of the worm gear and I had to use 4 u-joints going to a seperate bank with 2 gears to drive the worm gear. I think if I place thin liftarms under the studless beams that shound work. Quote
dhc6twinotter Posted May 11, 2013 Posted May 11, 2013 That setup has worked fine in my mocs, but it works better if you use a 32L axle, like in the pictures. The 32L axle keeps any axle connectors from hanging up on the gear racks. It's even better if you can fit an 8 tooth gear between the rack and worm gear, similar to what Alasdair Ryan posted. Do you have any pictures of the area in question? Quote
technicfan Posted May 11, 2013 Author Posted May 11, 2013 Only 5 studs wide aswell. Hope this helps: Quote
dhc6twinotter Posted May 11, 2013 Posted May 11, 2013 (edited) Ah, ok. Thanks for the picture! It looks like the studded beam is sliding on top of your frame assembly. This is raising it too high and is messing up the clearances. If you can rebuild the truck frame so the studded beam doesn't touch it, then the studless beams on either side of your studded pieces can slide on the truck frame. Then you will have space to place a row of plates between the studded beam and the gear racks, like the picture I posted. I hope that makes sense...I'm not the best at explaining stuff... EDIT: I'm looking at your picture again, and you may have issues with the gear rack rubbing against those bushings and the u-joints. You can try the above to see it it will work, but the clearances will be very tight. I think you may be better off making the modifications suggested above, and in addition, I think the worm gear should be raised 1 stud with an 8 tooth gear inserted between the rack and worm gear. This will eliminate any chance of the rack rubbing the bushings and u-joints, however, you will also have to move the motor. Edited May 11, 2013 by dhc6twinotter Quote
technicfan Posted May 11, 2013 Author Posted May 11, 2013 I sort of understand. There is nowhere else to put the motor though because the panel on top slopes down to the end of the trailer. Like I have said if I put thin liftarms under the studless beams that seems to work ok. Just out of intrest do you think the u joint setup and 2 gears looks ok. It seems to work fine. Quote
dhc6twinotter Posted May 11, 2013 Posted May 11, 2013 Oh, I see what you're saying with the thin liftarms. Yes, that should work, and it's a good solution. The u-joint angles are a bit steep, but if it works fine and has no binding, than it's fine. So long as none of the axles or u-joints are forced into place, then you should be ok. Generally, it's a good idea to brace the gears on either side, so if you have the space to add another liftarm on the backside of the gears, that will make things a bit stronger. I'm looking forward to your finished project! Quote
technicfan Posted May 11, 2013 Author Posted May 11, 2013 Cool thanks. It took me ages to come up with the idea with the u joints because everything else I used didn't work. This is sort of my 1st moc. I have built the hauler the same as Han's but changed the body and am putting this E-Ject trailer on the back of it. It will use this motor for the ejector and a pneumatic ram for the apron. I have stuck a compressor on the back of the hauler. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.