New to trains - #3677 on it's way!

[Werlu Ulcur]

Hey guys !

I have been interested in trains forever, but never took the plunge - well, in my defense, I was trying to keep things manageable with collecting only SW and super-heroes . By chance yesterday I found a BNIB #3677 "Red Cargo Train" (and locally!) for a fantastic price and it was a deal too good to pass on. Therefor, in 3 or 4 days I'm also in the railroad business . With that can of worms officially open, I'm already thinking of the next step.

In the future I'm definitively going to get a passenger train (probably the Horizon Express), but for now I just want a modern cargo train. I would want to add wagons to the #3677 and build (mod?) a new engine, something like this:

I honestly don't expect that I'll be able to make a "scale replica", I'm actually aiming at making something that just resembles the real thing, so I think I can pull it off. I'm also hopeing to use the #3677 engine as the basis for the project. Do you guys think it's doable? I know I'll have to get extra parts, but if the #3677 is a good starting point the project will be easier, and specially, cheaper. And about rolling stock. With the stock motor, how many wagons can the engine easily pull? I really don't expect something huge, but it would be nice to know I could get the engine to pull 4 or 5 with ease.

And speaking of motors and PF. What extra parts would it be nice to have?

Sorry for all the questions, but I went through all I could find around here but still have these specific doubts, so any tip would be greatly appreciated .

[bricks n bolts]

THE BNSF train was a 2004 set - http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?S=10133-1

[Seifer]

Lego trains are very nice and you can lose your head with them very easily. 3677 is a nice set and if you got it for a good price it's a steal.

I'm thinnking of getting the 10219 Maersk train, but it's very expensive now that's off thhe market.

[Werlu Ulcur]

THE BNSF train was a 2004 set - http://www.bricklink...m.asp?S=10133-1

Oh boy ! I went through Brickset but I must have missed it! Can it be motorized?

But I checked the prices . For those prices I can get a sealed Maersk.

Lego trains are very nice and you can lose your head with them very easily. 3677 is a nice set and if you got it for a good price it's a steal.

I'm thinnking of getting the 10219 Maersk train, but it's very expensive now that's off thhe market.

Oh, the Maersk is on my sights too! But as you said, quite expensive. If I manage to add at least one wagon to my Red Cargo I would be torn between the Maersk and the Horizon Express, but look at the difference in prices.

[Werlu Ulcur]

Back to PF: I've been reading about a battery pack for the motor. From what I understood, for the set I'll have to use regular AAA batteries (six?!?),so would it be advisable to get this battery back? Why? Because it's lighter or stores/outputs more juice then regular AAAs?

[Spitfire2865]

Back to PF: I've been reading about a battery pack for the motor. From what I understood, for the set I'll have to use regular AAA batteries (six?!?),so would it be advisable to get this battery back? Why? Because it's lighter or stores/outputs more juice then regular AAAs?

The battery box that comes with the set is coloured for that set. The rechargeable box is a basic grey. And the BNSF loco is made for 9V. It would be hard to fit it with PF due to the battery box.

Sorry If what I say doenst make sense. Just trying to help.

[Werlu Ulcur]

I understand - I've read that many have issues when trying to fit PF hardware in stock engines. Well, no biggie, since the BNSF is too rich for my blood at the moment.

But is there any advantage in using the power pack over regular rechargeable AAAs in terms of weight, space or power output?

[Spitfire2865]

The rechargeable battery box is the same size as the AAA box. The weight, Im not entirely sure. But If you have the money, Id recommend the rechargeable box. Its a lot easier to use as all you need to recharge is access to the plug. With the AAA box, you would have to completely remove it from the loco.

And the rechargeable box will save on battery costs in the long run.

[Werlu Ulcur]

Thanks for clearing that out - I didn't know you could recharge the battery pack without needing to remove it. That sure is a plus!

And two more railnoob questions:

1) Using PF, can I operate a second composition on the same track with the same RC unit or would I need a second RC unit?

2) And using PF, can I light up the engine?

[Hrw-Amen]

Yes you can light the engine with PF.

You can have up to 8 independent trains running with one PF train controller, assuming you can keep track of that m,any at once.

[Spitfire2865]

But you need one PF receiver for EACH train. Not sure if you understood that from what Hrw-Amen said.

I sure didnt.

[Werlu Ulcur]

No, I think I understood: I need one IR receiver + motor () for each engine, and then I can control more then one engine with just one IR controler. Got it!

So I can infer that I can put a second engine on a composition and control both engines with just one IR controler? If it's possible, that's pretty cool!

If I really want a second train on my track I will need another trio of motor+IR receiver+ battery pack, but not a an extra IR controler - good, that cuts a bit on costs.

Darn, the guy is only posting my train tomorrow, and I'm already thinking about a second train. I knew this was going to end badly .

[Spitfire2865]

Yes it is! You just need to set the PF receivers to the same channel. But if you are to have more than 2 trains running, I would recommend 2 controllers. It could help keep track of which train is being controlled. Just so you dont have to keep switching between frequencies.

And yes, we all have been infected with Train-itis. Its an incurable disease. It compels us to build and/or buy more trains.

And now you are one of us! Muahahahha

Edited February 24, 2013 by Spitfire2865

[Werlu Ulcur]

When my wife sees a train set box there will be hell to pay...

But too late, now the can is open . Like any normal 42yo with a 12yo's mind (though if you ask my wife she'll say I'm ony 10yo ) I'm barely holding back on what to buy next, but I have to stay firm and first get this set, build it and only then start thinking about the next step. But I tell you: it ain't easy!

Well, I've been reading a lot and it looks like there is an agreement that nowadays PF is the best place to start. I was kind of worried that I might had jumped the gun and got the "wrong" system. Right now I don't even have the space to go crazy, so I was after something kind of "plug & play", but with the possibility of getting more serious. One thing that worried me was gauge issues, but it looks like in terms of rail stock everything is compatible. Somewhere here, in an old thread, somebody recommended getting a "full" set first, then tracks and rail stock, and only then start thinking of MODing/MOCing or buying more trains, and that sounded wise in my ears.

I think I'll start looking around for ideas on wagons and maybe a crane. I always wanted a crane on my railroad .

[Locomotive Annie]

When my wife sees a train set box there will be hell to pay...

Just tell her you're thinking about giving up on trains and want to take up rock climbing instead and see how quickly you'll get a train set box pressed back into your hands.

[Werlu Ulcur]

When you collect watches, knives (on the back burner now), Lego and blow chunks on mountain biking, threatning her with some other sport won't do much...

[Locomotive Annie]

Well you could try saying you'll go out all night drinking with the boys instead as your new hobby, but that might cause more trouble than just buying Lego train sets.

[Androo]

I got this set recently and I'm glad I did, although the loading hopper thing that comes with it is a bit pointless.

[Werlu Ulcur]

Well you could try saying you'll go out all night drinking with the boys instead as your new hobby, but that might cause more trouble than just buying Lego train sets.

That might get her attention, and also might land me in the dog house. With my brand new Lego train set for a pillow .

I got this set recently and I'm glad I did, although the loading hopper thing that comes with it is a bit pointless.

I was wondering the same thing. Looks like TLG had to fill a parts quota and came up with that .

From what I gathered, to motorize a second train with PF I would need the following: 88002 + 8887 + 8884 + 8879 + 8878 + 8870. Tthough as stated above, I could save on the 8879 (IR control unit), since the #3677 alreadty comes with one. I tried to find a store on BL that would have all of those items so that I could save on shipping, and the best I could do was getting everything (except for the 8879) for 105 EUR. But adding things up, wouldn't it be more economical to just get a second full train set, like the #3677 or #7938 or #7939? You would get all the PF hardware (with the 8879 controler), and of course, tracks and rolling stock. And certainly that would make things a lot simpler.

[Androo]

I bought two of the passenger trains (7938) because I wanted extra carriages and spare PF kit.

Depending on how much you have to pay for your sets (I shop around) it's better value considering the cost of buying PF parts, track, train baseplates, wheelsets, etc on their own.

[zephyr1934]

Well, when you start selling your Star Wars to pay for your train habit, then you'll know you're incurable (grin).

To upgrade to the rechargeable battery in the US is $50 for the battery and $25 for the charger. Worth it if you are a power user, probably not if you are only a casual user. Until you know, a better starting point might be a pack of rechargeable AAA cells.

If you are into building your own trains, you have a great opportunity to build, refine, rebuild, the red cargo train. There are a lot of small tinkering projects that you could do on that set for not much money (especially if you have a collection of bricks to work with).

[peterab]

I would want to add wagons to the #3677 and build (mod?) a new engine, something like this:

I honestly don't expect that I'll be able to make a "scale replica", I'm actually aiming at making something that just resembles the real thing, so I think I can pull it off. I'm also hopeing to use the #3677 engine as the basis for the project. Do you guys think it's doable? I know I'll have to get extra parts, but if the #3677 is a good starting point the project will be easier, and specially, cheaper. And about rolling stock. With the stock motor, how many wagons can the engine easily pull? I really don't expect something huge, but it would be nice to know I could get the engine to pull 4 or 5 with ease.

And speaking of motors and PF. What extra parts would it be nice to have?

You should be able to build a US style diesel, but as your first MOC i'd steer away from anything with 6 wheel bogies, that way you can use the train motor from the set and still have the correct wheel arrangement. With a single motor you should be able to pull 5-6 LEGO cars easily, but you can add a second motor to most engines without too much fuss. You'll need a Pole Reverser to run them in opposite directions.

Also nice to have is Lights

I suggest you look at the instructions of the BNSF and Maersk trains (they should be available from the service section of the LEGO website), and a bunch of pictures of US engines on Flickr (their are lots of groups for trains). If you pick a red one your set will be the most helpful. There are also instructions for custom trains at Railbricks which might be helpful, and the LEGO Train Mocs group on Flickr has a whole bunch of inspiration.

Back to PF: I've been reading about a battery pack for the motor. From what I understood, for the set I'll have to use regular AAA batteries (six?!?),so would it be advisable to get this battery back? Why? Because it's lighter or stores/outputs more juice then regular AAAs?

It does store more juice and can be a bit more convenient to recharge depending on the design of the engine. There is a thread on here about fitting the red cover from 3677 to the rechargable battery if you want to go that way, but it wasn't really designed with that in mind. If you do buy one be aware that the lego recharger, is just a 10V supply (and is quite expensive). The battery contains it's own protection and charging circuit, so you can use any generic 12V supply you can find that fits. Testing has been done on the battery and it 's safe up until about 18V.

Yes it is! You just need to set the PF receivers to the same channel. But if you are to have more than 2 trains running, I would recommend 2 controllers. It could help keep track of which train is being controlled. Just so you dont have to keep switching between frequencies.

Don't bother buying an extra controller, if you ever buy another set you'll get another one, if you really get hooked on trains, you'll have too many after a while.

Hope some of this helps, and maybe there will be a Brazilian Lego Train Club in the future :-)

[Werlu Ulcur]

Depending on how much you have to pay for your sets (I shop around) it's better value considering the cost of buying PF parts, track, train baseplates, wheelsets, etc on their own.

From what I saw of prices on BL, I think a full set is the ticket. Living here in Brazil S&H can represent a big chunk of how much I spend when shopping overseas, so if I were to get each part from different stores the added S&H would be prohibitive. And the big bonus of getting a full set, like the Yellow Cargo Train, is all the extra rail stock (for me that wants a freight train) and tracks.

Well, when you start selling your Star Wars to pay for your train habit, then you'll know you're incurable (grin).

To upgrade to the rechargeable battery in the US is $50 for the battery and $25 for the charger. Worth it if you are a power user, probably not if you are only a casual user. Until you know, a better starting point might be a pack of rechargeable AAA cells.

That would be the rational thing to do, unfortunately my LM (Lego Madness) is way more serious .

I use rechargeable batteries a lot (flashlights, GPS, etc), and I have a lot of them always charged and ready to go, so a battery pack is not a must have for me right now. But if I have the opportunity to buy a pack the ease of use sure justifies getting one.

You should be able to build a US style diesel, but as your first MOC i'd steer away from anything with 6 wheel bogies, that way you can use the train motor from the set and still have the correct wheel arrangement. With a single motor you should be able to pull 5-6 LEGO cars easily, but you can add a second motor to most engines without too much fuss. You'll need a Pole Reverser to run them in opposite directions.

Also nice to have is Lights

I suggest you look at the instructions of the BNSF and Maersk trains (they should be available from the service section of the LEGO website), and a bunch of pictures of US engines on Flickr (their are lots of groups for trains). If you pick a red one your set will be the most helpful. There are also instructions for custom trains at Railbricks which might be helpful, and the LEGO Train Mocs group on Flickr has a whole bunch of inspiration.

It does store more juice and can be a bit more convenient to recharge depending on the design of the engine. There is a thread on here about fitting the red cover from 3677 to the rechargable battery if you want to go that way, but it wasn't really designed with that in mind. If you do buy one be aware that the lego recharger, is just a 10V supply (and is quite expensive). The battery contains it's own protection and charging circuit, so you can use any generic 12V supply you can find that fits. Testing has been done on the battery and it 's safe up until about 18V.

Don't bother buying an extra controller, if you ever buy another set you'll get another one, if you really get hooked on trains, you'll have too many after a while.

Hope some of this helps, and maybe there will be a Brazilian Lego Train Club in the future :-)

Fantastic tips there, thanks !

Good to know I can use any charger (as long as the voltage is ok and the plug fits), because if it's not the most expensive it's one of the most expensive items on that list. So that makes the prospect of getting a battery pack even more enticing. For now I'll first "get comfortable" with the stock #3677 and start looking around for ideas on MOCs, using the red engine as a building platform, but I guess a second full set is a given in the (near ) future.

Thanks guys for all the tips, this has been immensely educational!

[Werlu Ulcur]

The more I read, the more I realise I'm a total noob . So about rail stock. Can I go to town and get any wagon, flatbed, hopper, etc that Lego issued in the past or can I only use modern stuff with a modern engine? I mean, is there any compatibility issues with the pick-up system between modern and older cars?

And just to be clear, track gauge will not be a problem, right?

[Phoxtane]

I don't think it was mentioned before, but the Red Cargo Train set comes with two covers for the AAA battery box. The whole top piece lifts away from the boxes and reveals a rack-like thing that holds six AAA, which the covers... cover. You get one in red for use in the train engine, and a dark grey one for general usage.

The more I read, the more I realise I'm a total noob . So about rail stock. Can I go to town and get any wagon, flatbed, hopper, etc that Lego issued in the past or can I only use modern stuff with a modern engine? I mean, is there any compatibility issues with the pick-up system between modern and older cars?

And just to be clear, track gauge will not be a problem, right?

Someone with more knowledge of the 4.5v and 12v systems can help me on this one, but the rail gauge is the same throughout the four systems that Lego has produced over the years [4.5v, 12v, 9v, and PF] - eight stud wide sleepers with the rails taking up six studs. The 4.5v and 12v systems had the rails as a separate piece from the sleepers, but the 9v and PF systems are all one integrated piece that you can snap together. There's no official solution released by Lego to connect between the older two and the newer two systems, but you can get one off of Shapeways that'll do the trick [http://www.shapeways.com/model/454182/lego-rail3.html?li=productBox-search].

As far as I know, all wheelsets are compatible with all rails, but as the older rails have notches cut into them and the older wheelsets have corresponding grooves for traction purposes, you'd be better off using the newer wheelsets on the newer rails and vice versa. I presume the models would be easily transferrable between systems, as you would only have to make minor modifications to swap the wheelsets.