How to calculate scale for model building

[dvsntt]

I want to build a LEGO recreation of an iconic building in my town. There are not very good "straight-on" photos, but even if there were, I still am uncertain how to proceed. I've seen sample of peoples work where they overlay a grid to ascertain the ppoper dimensions in LEGO, adjusting the grid resolution depending on the size they want to make the model. I'm willing and ready to go take some photos myself, but I could use a little direction on how to obtain the proper grid size, or if there is a template I've een unable to find it. Thanks for any tips.

BTw. Here is a photo of the building I am attempting to build. It is the Dickens Opera House in Longmont Colorado. I'd love to find some really old photos of it and build it the way it looked in 1881 when it was built.

[DLuders]

Try the "Griddy" software that is on Lasse D's website. I used it recently on the LDD model of a 1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer. I overlaid a Lego brick-and-stud grid over various .JPG photos, and determined how many bricks/studs the LDD model needed to be.

[legolijntje]

Sariel also made a nice online scaling tool

[Calabar]

Don't forget that the section index can be a good reference for this kind of questions!

[kaitain]

Hi,

A quick Google of "Dickens Opera House in Longmont Colorado" came up with these.

Image

Image source http://caturner.wordpress.com/2011/10/19/mysterious-death-of-william-h-dickens/

image source http://www.hauntedcolorado.net/Longmont.html

The official looking lineup are the local ladder company (firemen to us Brits ).

If I were to attempt this, i'd probably scale the building based on the upstairs windows, using 2x2 and 2x3 frames, then adjust the wall sections accordingly. This definitely lends itself to a "Cafe Corner" style build, although it might end up larger than a 32x32 baseplate. Also LDD would really help with prototyping these structures.

Hope this helps, and looking forward to seeing your final design.

Regards

Kaitain

Edited February 6, 2013 by Calabar
Oversized image converted in a text link. Maximum size allowed is 800x600.

[PsyKater]

It depends on what you want. Realistic looking (same amount of windows, exact properties) or minifigure scale. Then you can abstract a little.

However, windows are a good point to start, I think.

[dvsntt]

Thank you so much. Particularly to Kaitain for sourcing those photos. The building looks very much the same today, the biggest difference being the awnings attached to the building. And I also appreciate the advice given to scale it to the windows. That seems so sensible, I am certain to do just that.

I want to make it as accurate as possible, without breaking my wallet and it also needs to be transported. This will quite possibly be displayed in the local museum, so I am trying to make it as detailed and recognizable as possible.

Thanks again, I think I am on track now. I will be working in LDD or the new-to-me SR3D to design it. I will likely use LDD since I am more fimiliar with it and know how to produce a Bricklink wanted list from a model built with it. I will post some photos when i have something to post.

[kibosh]

If I were to attempt this, i'd probably scale the building based on the upstairs windows, using 2x2 and 2x3 frames, then adjust the wall sections accordingly. This definitely lends itself to a "Cafe Corner" style build, although it might end up larger than a 32x32 baseplate. Also LDD would really help with prototyping these structures.

However, windows are a good point to start, I think.

Agreed. Start with the part that's hardest to control. You only have so many options for windows and doors. Use those as a starting point, and go from there. I've not had much luck with doing the grid thing. I find it best to pick a starting point (the windows), and start building until it feels right. You'll know when it does.

[legolijntje]

Thanks again, I think I am on track now. I will be working in LDD or the new-to-me SR3D to design it. I will likely use LDD since I am more fimiliar with it and know how to produce a Bricklink wanted list from a model built with it. I will post some photos when i have something to post.

You can make a bricklink wanted list from an LDraw file using BrickStore

[dvsntt]

Looking at this more critically now, as you can see by the photo, particularly the old larger one, the building is basically repaeating panels (brick facade, most with 2 windows) arranged to makeup the building in the dimensions of 3x7x2 (length x width x height). I think you have all put me on the right track, if I start with the upper windows, and build the entire bricks facade panel around the dimensions of the window, I can use that as a guide for the dimension of each section going forward. This will make it look as best as possible I beleive. I look forward to starting on this now. I have a feeling the rest of my work day is going to be really long.

Edited February 6, 2013 by dvsntt

[dvsntt]

I thought I might post an update for those interested. Here are the 3 photos I am basing my model off of:

This is how the building looked when I was kid:

This is how it looked in the 90's:

And this is how it looked today:

I prefer the roof line in stone instead of the black paint, but I did't really like the look fo the all-black awning, or all-green. So I borrowed form the newer version of the building. Anyhow, here is a render of my model so far. (If anyone has better building tips or advice for the awnings, I wouldn;t mind re-doing them). As you can see I made some compromises on size in scaling it to LEGO. Appreicate any feedback, or suggestions. Thanks.

Edited February 20, 2013 by dvsntt

[PsyKater]

It looks very good and very recognizable!

[dvsntt]

Thank you, thank you! That is absolutly the best compliment I had hoped to hear.

[Superkalle]

I think it looks splendid too. Scale-wize I may have added a brick row or two on the ground floor and maybe 3-4 on the first floor - just to "stretch it" up to it's full glory.

If you feel like sharing your LXF eventually, I'm sure we are a few that could help have a look at the structure etc.

[legolijntje]

That looks very, very good. :thumbup: I have only 1 tip:

if you look at the photos, you can see that the front compartiments (2 windows between to pillars) are wider than the ones on the side. I woulc recoommend to widen the front ones 1 stud on both sides (the windows should be kept the same size). If it's not clear what I mean, it's not your fault

Oh, btw, do you plan to add a little bit of street in the model, like the modular buildings?

[dvsntt]

@legolijnte I think I understand what you are talking about, because I see it now. The 2 windows in the center of the lower-level are a wee-bit wider then the ones on the corner. I don't think I can adjust it without making a change without altering the geometry of the other *sections. The center pillar is 2 studs wide and needs to be there, and offsetting it once stud the other way would move my hinge plates (to make the angled windows) over, and then that affects the whole area. Of course, feel free to correct me, I am quite a novice with this, this being my first attempt to recreate any sort of building.

@Superkalle I would be happy to share my design. I feel I need to explain one thing before you scrutinize it. I had the walls that are recessed between the pillars, joined to the pillars with technic bricks and pins, but it turns out the 1x1 technic brick is not available in dark red. So I kept the 1x2 technic bricks in the pillars and used 1x1 bricks with a stud on the side to join them since those are available in dark red. To be certain I am making sense, this picture describes how I connected them:

Here is the LXF file:

http://habervision.net/offsiteimg/dickens%20front%20changed%20puttogether.lxf

[legolijntje]

@legolijnte I think I understand what you are talking about, because I see it now. The 2 windows in the center of the lower-level are a wee-bit wider then the ones on the corner. I don't think I can adjust it without making a change without altering the geometry of the other *sections. The center pillar is 2 studs wide and needs to be there, and offsetting it once stud the other way would move my hinge plates (to make the angled windows) over, and then that affects the whole area. Of course, feel free to correct me, I am quite a novice with this, this being my first attempt to recreate any sort of building.

Well, I wasn't talking about the lower level, I was talking about the front in general, but mostly the upper part. I think the easiest way to explain is to let you count the little thingies at the wedge of the roof (the 1x1 round tiles in your model). You'll se that every compartment on the front has 8 of them, while the side compartments have 7.

But it looks good as it is now, I know the hassle and frustration (both digital and real), when I find out I have to dissasmble half a moc to move some parts

(it happened to me today again, luckily the moc is almost finished, I'm only waiting for a Bricklink order)

[dvsntt]

You have an incredible eye for detail. I am a bit distraught I didn't catch that before; I would have accounted for it. Clearly, getting some other eyes on a project really helps. I may re-design it. Thanks for pointing that out.