Help with the 'Mog Needed

[grum64]

Hi Everyone

I'm in the process of motorising the 'Mog but have hit a problem that I can't seem to get solved.

The XL motors for the drive & steering are are both in as is the receiver.

My problem is once everything is connected up. Up and I turn the battery box switch on the M motor that drives the air pump starts going. Obviously this is going to continue running whle I'm 'driving' the 'Mog. Any ideas how I can switch the air pump motor on only when needed so that it's off while it's driving.

As I build by mouth so any solutions need to be relatively simple.

I'd appreciate any help.

Many Thanks

[Alasdair Ryan]

The gearbox that drives the compressor can be put in 'neutral' this should fix your problem.If not you can fit a battery box in the cab.

[laix]

So you connected the receiver and the M-Motor for the pump with the battery box? In this case the M-Motor will run as long as the BB is turned on. You could use a Power Functions Switch or another receiver for the M-Motor.

What electric components do you have?

[grum64]

So you connected the receiver and the M-Motor for the pump with the battery box? In this case the M-Motor will run as long as the BB is turned on. You could use a Power Functions Switch or another receiver for the M-Motor.

What electric components do you have?

Thank you for your speedy reply.

Yes, I'm trying to stop the air pump M motor running completely when 'driving' the '

I've tried connecting the air pump M motor to the BB first then the receiver. The receiver has both the XL drive motor and the XL steering motor connected to both it's terminals. I've also tried the receiver first and the air pump M motor second.

Each time the air pump M motor runs.

I've got a PF Pole Reverser switch, spare Receiver & spare battery boxes. I even bought a mindstorms touch switch (not the touch sensor) thinking that'd help. It doesnt.

Any ideas?

Grum64

[DLuders]

You could insert the 8869 Power Functions Pole Reverser Switch in between the PF Receiver Battery Box and the PF Medium motor. If you move the Pole Reverser Switch to its center (neutral) position, the PF Medium motor should not run.

Edited April 9, 2012 by DLuders

[dhc6twinotter]

Thank you for your speedy reply.

Yes, I'm trying to stop the air pump M motor running completely when 'driving' the '

I've tried connecting the air pump M motor to the BB first then the receiver. The receiver has both the XL drive motor and the XL steering motor connected to both it's terminals. I've also tried the receiver first and the air pump M motor second.

Each time the air pump M motor runs.

I've got a PF Pole Reverser switch, spare Receiver & spare battery boxes. I even bought a mindstorms touch switch (not the touch sensor) thinking that'd help. It doesnt.

Any ideas?

Grum64

Grum64, here's one way you can wire it up: BB>Pole Reverser>compressor motor and receiver>XL motors.

Plug your pole reverser into your battery box, then plug your compressor motor and receiver to the pole reverser. The pole reverser has a pass through design, and the receiver will always get power no matter what position your pole reverser is in. You will be able to turn on/off the compressor as needed, and your receiver will work like it should. Plug your XL motors into the receiver.

Should work.

[dr_spock]

Here's how mine is hooked up.

PF switch and IR receiver are connected to the battery.

Motors for driving are connected to the IR receiver.

The M motor for the compressor and PTO are connected to the switch.

[grum64]

Here's how mine is hooked up.

PF switch and IR receiver are connected to the battery.

Motors for driving are connected to the IR receiver.

The M motor for the compressor and PTO are connected to the switch.

Great Help. Thank you.

Your solution looks very 'elegant'. I've relocated the battery box to the front of the load area by removing the centre 'panel and filling a few extra pieces to Ensure the correct BB width. Slots on a treat & solves the lean caused by the weight of the BB. Doesn't look too bad actually (imvho).

Thanks again for your help. I'll let you know how I get on.

[grum64]

The gearbox that drives the compressor can be put in 'neutral' this should fix your problem.If not you can fit a battery box in the cab.

Thanks for replying.

Your help & that given by all who've answered 'the call' have been most helpful.

Regards

Grum

Edited April 10, 2012 by grum64

[sama]

Just looking at dr_spock's picture, does everybody have those lines on the side of the wheel?

Edited April 10, 2012 by sama

[grum64]

Just looking at dr_spock's picture, does everybody have those lines on the side of the wheel?

Not sure exactly what you mean about the lines. On the wheel or tire?

If you mean the wheel, do you mean the lines as part of the 'design'? If so I thought that side of the wheel looked too 'sporty' but that's the way they're shown in the instructions. I turned mine round, they now look far more utilitarian (imho)

All a matter of taste I suppose. Each to their own.

[dr_spock]

Great Help. Thank you.

Your solution looks very 'elegant'. I've relocated the battery box to the front of the load area by removing the centre 'panel and filling a few extra pieces to Ensure the correct BB width. Slots on a treat & solves the lean caused by the weight of the BB. Doesn't look too bad actually (imvho).

Thanks again for your help. I'll let you know how I get on.

You're welcome. Do you have a pic of how you attached your battery box?

[grum64]

You're welcome. Do you have a pic of how you attached your battery box?

Hi

Yes of course. I'll post a picture when I get one taken.

There was one draw back with mine being done this way and that was that the 2 sides of the trailers sides weren't secured toward the front where the panel was removed. I'm I the process of (slowly!!) resolving this.

[88high]

When I motorized my unimog, I added a switch and mounted it behind the cabine. Thhat should be east enough to control. If you want, you could even use a micromotor to control the seitch, or a PF m motor to control the switch

[grum64]

When I motorized my unimog, I added a switch and mounted it behind the cabine. Thhat should be east enough to control. If you want, you could even use a micromotor to control the seitch, or a PF m motor to control the switch

Hi. Just looked your micro motor swich solution What a great way to do it. I'll get a micro motor off eBay or Bricklink & see if I can do it.

Would you mind if I tried to copy your design?

I earlier read that Threads should be kept in Topics. If this is the case I'm sorry but I didn't know this. A newbie mistake. To comply with forum rules do i have to put further postings in the previous Topic 'Disabled Technic Builders' I started?

Edited April 13, 2012 by grum64

[DLuders]

@ grum64: I don't see any problem with posting your Unimog questions in THIS topic. Your previous topic about "Disabled Technic Builders" was a life story, with lots of empathy from fellow builders.

Some Eurobricks Technic members (like Nico71, efferman, and Grohl) choose to place all of their creations into one, LONG topic. Others (like Sariel) post individual topics for individual projects. Yet others (like SNIPE) post multiple topics for the same project!

[Alasdair Ryan]

While some people don't even bother building any mocs and instead just give pointers to everyone.............

Edited April 12, 2012 by Alasdair Ryan

[DLuders]

Hey, I promise to build a MOC if Blakbird does too!

[dr_spock]

Just looking at dr_spock's picture, does everybody have those lines on the side of the wheel?

Now I do. I turned my tires around and those faint lines on the tires don't show. They seem to be on one side of the tires and not the other. Maybe it is the mold. I vaguely recall a topic on that.