Theboot200 Posted August 30, 2011 Posted August 30, 2011 Hi, new here. I have been thinking of trying an 11.1volt lipo (12v when fully charged) with the 9v medium motors and ir receiver. Will this blow the motors or the or reciever? I find the excavator way to under powered, and also the red gear switch rarely switches when using it. Is it to risky? Quote
davidmull Posted August 30, 2011 Posted August 30, 2011 Hi, new here. I have been thinking of trying an 11.1volt lipo (12v when fully charged) with the 9v medium motors and ir receiver. Will this blow the motors or the or reciever? I find the excavator way to under powered, and also the red gear switch rarely switches when using it. Is it to risky? I find using energiser lithium batteries has more power and they last a long long time,try this first.also my red switch works every time with the lithiums :) Quote
Theboot200 Posted August 30, 2011 Author Posted August 30, 2011 I find using energiser lithium batteries has more power and they last a long long time,try this first.also my red switch works every time with the lithiums :) Thanks mate I'll give that a go as well. My main concern is whether the extra volts will blow up the ir receiver. The motors shouldn't get to hot if you don't load them for to long at a time Quote
allanp Posted August 30, 2011 Posted August 30, 2011 Try reading this thread. http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=48718&st=0 hope it helps Quote
Theboot200 Posted August 30, 2011 Author Posted August 30, 2011 Try reading this thread. http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=48718&st=0 hope it helps Awesome! I googled for ages looking for a thread like that :) I might give it a go. The excavator just seems to under powered for my liking. Now to figure out the best way to wire it up. To the battery box or to use the clip of my one spare motor. I wish Lego would use there xl motors as standard. Quote
Nazgarot Posted August 30, 2011 Posted August 30, 2011 (edited) Awesome! I googled for ages looking for a thread like that :) I might give it a go. The excavator just seems to under powered for my liking. Now to figure out the best way to wire it up. To the battery box or to use the clip of my one spare motor. I wish Lego would use there xl motors as standard. You could try Jurgens Ultimate 8043. It's quite a good mod, and really makes the whole machine a lot better. At least that way you wont have to burn out any receivers... -ED- Edited August 30, 2011 by Nazgarot Quote
Theboot200 Posted August 31, 2011 Author Posted August 31, 2011 You could try Jurgens Ultimate 8043. It's quite a good mod, and really makes the whole machine a lot better. At least that way you wont have to burn out any receivers... -ED- Thanks I might try that down the track. Right now I don't have the time to try something like that. I want to wire the battery up to a Lego terminal block. Know the 2 center wires are the negative an positive because I read it yesterday (on this forum?). A guy explained with pictures on wiring a 7.2v lipo to the terminal block, but I can't find it anywhere. I'm not sure which one should be the positive which one the negative. Quote
Theboot200 Posted August 31, 2011 Author Posted August 31, 2011 So figured it out. I know theres a slight risk of damaging the receiver but oh well. It's got heaps more power, the red switch works every time and the bucket now has enough power to scoop a half bucket of sand. Massive improvement, it's been running for about 1 1/2 hours sometimes under a fair bit of load, am using a 11.1v 2400 mah 20c lipo of my rc heli. Quote
Theboot200 Posted September 1, 2011 Author Posted September 1, 2011 (edited) Where do you buy these? Any hobby store. Www.dealextreme.com sell them, and free shipping. Search for lithium polymer 11.1 volt. You will need a lipo balancing charger to, can't use any charger. You can get cheap ones there to. Mah = battery size. 2000 mah means you will be able to draw 2 amps of your battery for 1 hour before it goes flat. C = the rated current draw. 20C would mean it's safe to draw 20amps of the battery without it getting to hot. 10 or 15C should be heaps. When fully charged the battery peaks at a bit over 12 volt. As it gets used the voltage drops. Don't let it drop below high tens or it will ruin the battery. A simple dc multimeter can check the charge of it. As a rule charge them outside, they can explode, (check youtube) although it's highly unlikely. I have tried exploding them by shorting them out. Putting 10c ones on a 40amp draw, numerous big rc plane and heli crashes and still no exploding, I think it's more overcharging them, but the chargers do have a voltage cut off, but still be careful. Use them at your own risk on the 9v Lego it receiver. It worked fine with me. Wire it up like this (thanks to the thread linked in here) you will need a spare Lego connector clip. If possible use a on off switch, at the moment I just plug it in to turn it on. 2 wires join for the positive, 2 to the negative. Make sure you get the negative and positive leads right! I did a test with a spare motor before plugging it in to the ir. Edited September 1, 2011 by Theboot200 Quote
rien Posted October 19, 2011 Posted October 19, 2011 Nice to see some one else using 11.1 v I run it on 11,1v for a long time now and still no problems with motor or recivers so everyone who crying about it dont be smart you arent! Runs goot better than lego,s desing mine is a jurgen krooshoop desing aswel keep that in mind its not onley the lipo who make it strong the desing take some credits for it too Hope you enjoy the real powerrr Quote
allanp Posted October 19, 2011 Posted October 19, 2011 (edited) so everyone who crying about it dont be smart you arent! Charming Edited October 19, 2011 by allanp Quote
bord4kop Posted October 20, 2011 Posted October 20, 2011 (edited) If someone wants to run his/her Lego PF on more than 9V; go ahead, be my guest. The only thing I want to remark on the subject is this; My 8043 runs smooth on the normal, hell, even on rechargeable batteries! It doens ´t ´feel´ like it is under-powered ever (even when batteries start running out). This is mainly because of how I have build it the second time. The first build was somewhat edgy and didn 't run all that nice. Now it does however. I am not saying I am a better builder than the next person. I only payed extra secure attention on the build. I made sure all the gears ran smooth, there was no friction. And it did pay off! So you might want to (re-)check or rebuild it. And then try again how it runs.. (mine is the regular version, I will also try the Jurgen Krooshoop mod some time soon) Edited October 21, 2011 by bord4kop Quote
rien Posted October 21, 2011 Posted October 21, 2011 (edited) Charming Like this you know what i mean people keep saying it cant run on 11,1 v! But i have it a long time now and still no problems so acept that it can be done please. Phili something cant remember the name used it on 12 volts . Point is it works people say i migt volunteer to demolis it with my idea 11,1 v But they dont do it or they find out it works fine and keep it for them selfs thats ignorend. No one sayd ,good idea onley noo you cant ,its dangerous ,i call that wanking. Dit enyone try'd it?who as saying willing to do it? nooo no revieuws about that. Thats charming k.m.a Edited October 21, 2011 by rien Quote
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