Advanced train-building with power functions

[Nix Mills]

To all advanced train builders

I'd like to start a discussion for knowledge sharing on how to power your MOC trains using Power Functions (PF).

Typically, trains are powered by a complete motor boogie. If you run a longer and heavier train, you can replace one of the dummy boogies with another motor. With the Emerald Night engine, or locomotive, Lego introduced a set powered by an XL-motor with a simple cog gearing. The performance of this engine is slightly different – not as fast, but sturdy.

In MOC trains, like the big and heavy NY Central, Shuppiluliumas uses two XL-motors to pull the train. He has also experimented with building boogies that gear up the motor. In these two links, you can see some interesting designs. Anthony Sava has, a while ago, posted some ideas for how to build your own boogies to be propelled by motors – and how to improve the traction. (see links below)

This post is meant to share ideas for powering MOC trains. Give us some input to the following questions – or to something else:

What is your experience with the performance of the 9V train motor (88002) compared to the XL-motor (8882) or even the M-motor (8883)?

What is your experience with gearing the motors for either speed or load?

What is your experience with finding the balance between speed, traction and weight?

Regards

Nix

Links:

NYC

Gearing

Traction

[Sokratesz]

I don't have all the parts needed yet but I do plan to build a PF powered train in the future that includes a gearbox. Given the weight of these trains, it should be possible to run them at higher speeds with only one motor, if suitable gearing is possible.

I'll probably try to build a linear gearbox driven by an LA with 3-4 gears in a similar confined space somewhere in the future.

Edited August 18, 2011 by Sokratesz

[HoMa]

I have used PF motors in various combinations in various MOC engines. PF motors work fine for old-fashioned engines, especially steam engines but also early electric engines like the Swiss Crocodile. OR saying it the other way round: Wenn ever the wheel configuration of the standard train motor doesn't fit to the engine, PF with BBB wheels or the LEGO steam engine wheels is a good choice.

Form PF motors you can not expect fast running trains. If you want to go fast, use the standard train motors, either 9V or the new one with PF connection to receiver/battery box. If you want to build a fast steam engine, then I'd prefer an engine without motors at all and standard motors underneath the waggons.

While using PF M- or XL-Motors a good advice is to keep it as simple as possible. Means, use as less gears as possible. LEGO Technic Gears, axles, bricks with axleholes etc. are not made for a permanent and long term spinning. Just compare the usage of moving/spinning parts in a Technic model/MOC and a train which should run for hours at LEGO shows.

The gears in a PF train engine could become rather loud. I started to use a special lubrication which was made for RC controlled cars using plastic gears. Some small drops really helped and the mechanics worked much smoother afterwards.

See may train mocs with various was of powering at: http://www.holgermatthes.de/bricks/en/trains.php

Holger

[Nix Mills]

I have used PF motors in various combinations in various MOC engines. PF motors work fine for old-fashioned engines, especially steam engines but also early electric engines like the Swiss Crocodile. OR saying it the other way round: Wenn ever the wheel configuration of the standard train motor doesn't fit to the engine, PF with BBB wheels or the LEGO steam engine wheels is a good choice.

Form PF motors you can not expect fast running trains. If you want to go fast, use the standard train motors, either 9V or the new one with PF connection to receiver/battery box. If you want to build a fast steam engine, then I'd prefer an engine without motors at all and standard motors underneath the waggons.

While using PF M- or XL-Motors a good advice is to keep it as simple as possible. Means, use as less gears as possible. LEGO Technic Gears, axles, bricks with axleholes etc. are not made for a permanent and long term spinning. Just compare the usage of moving/spinning parts in a Technic model/MOC and a train which should run for hours at LEGO shows.

The gears in a PF train engine could become rather loud. I started to use a special lubrication which was made for RC controlled cars using plastic gears. Some small drops really helped and the mechanics worked much smoother afterwards.

See may train mocs with various was of powering at: http://www.holgermatthes.de/bricks/en/trains.php

Holger

Great link and thanks for your points.

How did the M-motor pull compared to the XL-motor?

Beautiful steam engine there - and I'm a fan of your ICE3, the Stuttgart, and the funny little baptism ceremony.

Nix

[roamingstop]

Ive done a few powered 4 axle trucks with an M Motor... and had a model EE 3/3 pulling 4 EN cars or 3 4561 cars with some wheel slip. The XL in an Emerald night will pull 6 cars.

I would use M for shunters... (its smaller, easier to integrate) and XL for larger models. On the split train base thread (search down the train index) you will see a discussion exactly around this; and various examples of XL motors in powered tenders for steam locomotives.