What goes in the middle ?

[Trainee]

I have seen some where a build of 2 Santa Fe engines back to front with a carriage inbetween and instead of the all grey colours, this one had the bottom part done with the red and yellow to match the engines. Now this looks awesome to me but what should go inbetween the engines if anything ?

The reason I'm asking is because I'm making a replica set of this famous model/set and not being too train wise I don't want to look silly and put a dinner car there lol when it should be say the baggage car or quarters for the engine drivers.

[vgsprites]

I have seen some where a build of 2 Santa Fe engines back to front with a carriage inbetween and instead of the all grey colours, this one had the bottom part done with the red and yellow to match the engines. Now this looks awesome to me but what should go inbetween the engines if anything ?

The reason I'm asking is because I'm making a replica set of this famous model/set and not being too train wise I don't want to look silly and put a dinner car there lol when it should be say the baggage car or quarters for the engine drivers.

That car is a B Unit.

Basically it is an engine with no cab unit.

If build one expect to pay a pretty penny for the gray porthole windows.

You could use the much cheaper red ones or take a 1x2x3 trans clear panel and make your own gray porthole decal.

Hope this helped and good luck with the set.

Post pics when you're finshed.

Edited March 29, 2011 by vgsprites

[Trainee]

That car is a B Unit.

Basically it is an engine with no cab unit.

If build one expect to pay a pretty penny for the gray porthole windows.

You could use the much cheaper red ones or take a 1x2x3 trans clear panel and make your own gray porthole decal.

Hope this helped and good luck with the set.

Post pics when you're finshed.

Thanks for that info VGS, yeah I have had a quick look at port hole windows, grey are going around the $26 NZD which isnt to flash :) The other down fall for me is the main windscreen, the original had the red border and spilt, if memory serves me right these are around $20 as well. It's a shame really but the model's are just going to be for me so I might swap the windscreen for an all trans clear 2x3x2 I think it is. And I'm also looking at something along the lines of 90195 if I can get glass for this too or some 2377 ones.

Sorry to just put the BL number for them in but it will give you an idea where I'm thinking of going.

[Trainee]

Instead of making another topic I thought i'd add it here. I'm getting a bit stuck for roof parts. The 6215 Brick, modified 2x3 with curved top are ridiculously priced for the Light Grey ones and I can't find enough light bluish grey to do the job. I was wondering if anyone had a good idea for an alternative that looks the same. I did have a look at the topic just recently where the guy used all Pab bricks to make the cars but these are 1x2x3 curved and I think the gaps look at little too rude. No offence to the guy who made them good on ya for doing it but it's not my cup-of-tea sorry.

[Tigertamer]

Hello,

I think you could use 6081 Brick 2 x 4 x 1 & 1/3 with Curved Top for the roof. It has the same rounding like 6215 Brick 2 x 3 with Curved Top. The only problem is that it is a little bit higher so you have to start the roof a little bit deeper. I hope you understand what I mean. I don't know how it works, it was only my first thought.

Greetings Andreas

[fred67]

Yes, you could use the 6081...

This is what I did... I didn't use the 6081, I used 6091... because I got like a whole large cup full at the LEGO Store.

That might have too many "gaps," but you might use the same concept with the 6081.

There's some alternatives in this thread, including mine. While I was OK with the look (one plate too thick, but otherwise it was fine), I eventually just went for the readily available and inexpensive black 2x3 curved instead of gray.

Edited March 29, 2011 by fred67

[pinioncorp]

There really isn't a cheap way to do these properly. The parts in this set are rare and therefore expensive to buy. You can attempt to modify the design to fit with parts readily available but you will have to accept that it won't look the same. If you are buying the B unit to go with your own SF (well *dur*), the having it taller won't look terribly good. A black roof would also break the continuity.

[fred67]

... You can attempt to modify the design to fit with parts readily available but you will have to accept that it won't look the same.

Except you could make the same changes to the engine in gray and red and maintain consistency. In the thread I linked to there are LDD models of both the engine and cars using the same technique.

It's simply not worth the price people are asking for the gray bricks. I'm hoping one day TLG will make more, but honestly, if you put the effort into getting a consistent look you can do it for a reasonable price.

[jaster]

Why are you bent on recreating the set? It is a good design, but there are many things that one could improve. As for the portholes, just use boat studs as I did here. A plain 6x2x2 windscreen looks fine as well.

Edited March 29, 2011 by jaster

[AllanSmith]

I have seen some where a build of 2 Santa Fe engines back to front with a carriage inbetween and instead of the all grey colours, this one had the bottom part done with the red and yellow to match the engines. Now this looks awesome to me but what should go inbetween the engines if anything ?

This is a B unit. The engines at each end are called A units. I modified two Sante Fe sets to build the B unit.

There are instructions on Railbricks.com to build a B unit.

You can watch my video taken in Taupo, New Zealand of the Sante Fe train with A-B-A units.

[roamingstop]

You can watch my video taken in Taupo, New Zealand of the Sante Fe train with A-B-A units.

Great video... but that sound track....

[LEGO Guy Bri]

Anyone have pics of a MOC B-Unit for the BNSF? If I can get ahold of another, I'd like to BL order parts for one granted that it would be cost effective. Otherwise I'll make one for the Maersk.

BTW neat idea for windows. I too, am not about to pay a couple bucks per part.

Edited March 30, 2011 by Leg Godt Gud

[Trainee]

Why are you bent on recreating the set? It is a good design, but there are many things that one could improve. As for the portholes, just use boat studs as I did here. A plain 6x2x2 windscreen looks fine as well.

Basically I was going to replicate the set and then go from there on altering it. I have always loved this set since first laying eyes on it so thought it a good place to start.

[jaster]

Anyone have pics of a B-Unit for the BNSF? If I can get ahold of another, I'd like to BL order parts for one granted that it would be cost effective. Otherwise I'll make one for the Maersk.

BTW neat idea for windows. I too, am not about to pay a couple bucks per part.

Here are pictures of a real BNSF B-Unit and one that someone built out of Lego a few years ago.

[roamingstop]

Here are pictures of a real BNSF B-Unit and one that someone built out of Lego a few years ago.

Most of the BNSF B Units were modified A units; but I think 4 actual purpose built B's were built. I have also been working on a B unit for my BNSF... (very very slowly) and have a load of pictures I had downloaded from various sources; although they mostly look the same. I will post some links later (tonight).

The Wikipedia link for the GP30B has some good inspiration

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EMD_GP60B

Edited March 30, 2011 by roamingstudio