Help needed whit my moc. (part 2-last)

[legolijntje]

Hello,

now I have the 2 motors up each other, but the LA's are too far forward.

Look at the picture; can the LA's further back?

Another little problem is the most right gear; it touches the other gear a bit.

Pictures (putting them in the post didn't worked):

WIP 4

WIP 5

WIP 6

I hope this explanation was clear.

I hope this can be solved; otherwise I have to redesign the whole thing.

Edited January 1, 2011 by legolijntje

[Milan]

Tan 12 bevel gear that power the LAs would slip as soon as there are some torque involved. Change that.

Put Battery Box at the back of the Loader, it will make room for LAs drive.

I don't like your track drive either, your loader would move way to fast, and it will lack power, you need to make at least 1/10 reduction when using M motor to power the loader, especially the crawled one, which has much more friction on the surface, than wheeled one.

[legolijntje]

Tan 12 bevel gear that power the LAs would slip as soon as there are some torque involved. Change that.

Put Battery Box at the back of the Loader, it will make room for LAs drive.

I don't like your track drive either, your loader would move way to fast, and it will lack power, you need to make at least 1/10 reduction when using M motor to power the loader, especially the crawled one, which has much more friction on the surface, than wheeled one.

Yes I now about the track drive, but it must be like this because otherwise there was no place for the battery box. And I thougt of place the battery box at the back also, but it doesn't fit there. 8878 fits there, but I don't have one (i'm going to buy one).

<sigh>

I think I have to wait for my 8878.

[Alasdair Ryan]

right never mind milan he is just trubble

change the (1 conecters and axle joiners to just 2's )

that will move it back a bit

you could remove one of those braces than add 2 small gears and a drive shaft to side the tan gear alomg a bit (you will need turn the tan gear around)

if you need a cad dring just ask

Edited December 31, 2010 by Alasdair Ryan

[legolijntje]

right never mind milan he is just trubble

change the (1 conecters and axle joiners to just 2's )

that will move it back a bit

you could remove one of those braces than add 2 small gears and a drive shaft to side the tan gear alomg a bit (you will need turn the tan gear around)

if you need a cad dring just ask

Yes I thougt also about that piece, but it doesn't fit on a pin.

That beam is attached to the battery box using (long - 3) pins. Short ones doesn't work either, because they are on the same place (I hope this was clear, because I don't have good pictures of it).

[Buffalo]

First off, that's coming along really nicely and it looks like you've got some really good design ideas.

Looking at wip5.jpg, the first thing I would do is replace that 9L liftarm with a 10L Technic brick, but that's my preference. Interfacing with the studs on the body would give it some extra support. Also, you're going to have a heck of a time changing the batteries in that box, if there was a way to make the rear of the machine removable so you could pull the battery box out, that might be an option. The 8878 battery box would be perfect for this sort of MOC, as you could leave the charger port exposed, or hide it under a hatch or easily removable part so you can just plug the charger in.

To move the LAs back, get rid of these and mount the connectors that carry the LA driveshaft directly to the liftarm. It looks like you mounted them like that so you could use 3L blue pins to connect the liftarm to the battery box, which is a good idea, but you might be able to just use 3L pins with stop bushes and 2L axles, which wouldn't move the LAs back as far but would keep more structural rigidity. You could also make use of these, especially where the motor drives the bevel gear. It would fit right where things are now if you replace the 20T with a 12T as outlined in the next paragraph.

I would also replace those 20T half-bevels driving the LAs with 12T bevels and use 12T double bevels on the LAs. That would allow everything to clear, and give you a bit of gearing down on the LA drives and allow the machine to lift a heavier load. Speaking of that, I think the leverage your LAs will exert on that 9L liftarm might bind the driveshaft coming from the motor. You might want to investigate a way to support the point where the LAs articulate. You might be able to replace those pin connectors that hold the LA drive axle with these, with the extra ends pointing down, then put a plate over top of your drive motors and space it up with plates and tiles to prop them up.

As for your track drives, that machine is going to be a real speed demon with no gear reduction. If you mounted the motors side by side with the outputs facing forward, you might be able to rig up a worm-gear reduction to drive the sprockets. You can also experiment with different gear sizes on the chain drives, but the best you can do is a 24t gear on the drive axle, which will only be good for a 3:2 reduction.

Whew, sorry for the wall of text.

[legolijntje]

First off, that's coming along really nicely and it looks like you've got some really good design ideas.

Looking at wip5.jpg, the first thing I would do is replace that 9L liftarm with a 10L Technic brick, but that's my preference. Interfacing with the studs on the body would give it some extra support. Also, you're going to have a heck of a time changing the batteries in that box, if there was a way to make the rear of the machine removable so you could pull the battery box out, that might be an option. The 8878 battery box would be perfect for this sort of MOC, as you could leave the charger port exposed, or hide it under a hatch or easily removable part so you can just plug the charger in.

To move the LAs back, get rid of these and mount the connectors that carry the LA driveshaft directly to the liftarm. It looks like you mounted them like that so you could use 3L blue pins to connect the liftarm to the battery box, which is a good idea, but you might be able to just use 3L pins with stop bushes and 2L axles, which wouldn't move the LAs back as far but would keep more structural rigidity. You could also make use of these, especially where the motor drives the bevel gear. It would fit right where things are now if you replace the 20T with a 12T as outlined in the next paragraph.

I would also replace those 20T half-bevels driving the LAs with 12T bevels and use 12T double bevels on the LAs. That would allow everything to clear, and give you a bit of gearing down on the LA drives and allow the machine to lift a heavier load. Speaking of that, I think the leverage your LAs will exert on that 9L liftarm might bind the driveshaft coming from the motor. You might want to investigate a way to support the point where the LAs articulate. You might be able to replace those pin connectors that hold the LA drive axle with these, with the extra ends pointing down, then put a plate over top of your drive motors and space it up with plates and tiles to prop them up.

As for your track drives, that machine is going to be a real speed demon with no gear reduction. If you mounted the motors side by side with the outputs facing forward, you might be able to rig up a worm-gear reduction to drive the sprockets. You can also experiment with different gear sizes on the chain drives, but the best you can do is a 24t gear on the drive axle, which will only be good for a 3:2 reduction.

Whew, sorry for the wall of text.

Thanks, I will try it out.

[allanp]

You could try something like this, and support the 12 long axle at either end. You sould be able to get rid of all the current bacing you have doing that (the black beam and the axle connectors and so on), enableing you to move the LAs back.

However, with your current design and with all the mods mentioned you might encounter a problem with there being too much load on the 12l axle for it to turn freely.

In any case, good luck with it!

Edited January 1, 2011 by allanp