Powering the Toy Story 3 Train

[smittyfan]

They're just that - spares - so use them for whatever you want. The machines at TLG make a set of four flanged driver and two blind drivers as used (in black) by the Emerald Night. It's less hassle (i.e. cheaper) to do the same in red for the TS3 train than to re-jig things to just make the flanged drivers.

well, that answered a question of mine... i looked through the instruction booklet about 5 times trying to figure out where they go... i finally resolved to the fact that they're extra parts...

and some day i'm gonna try motorizing my train, for fun! i'm thinking the easiest way is get a job, save up some money, and break down and pay $400 for the entire Holiday Train set, on Bricklink...

win-win right?

[Cinderbike]

While I don't actually own the set, it does look like it can be motorized without having to make any major modifications. On the locomotive, just replace that "block" that is holding the main driving wheels (the thing you start building on page 29 of the instructions) with this Power Functions Train Motor. Then to power it, wire it into a battery box. Your battery box choices are the rechargeable box which can easily be hidden away in the box car (and don't forget to buy a charger). If that rechargeable battery box + charger is to expensive, you could look into just getting the double-A battery box and make a few modifications to make it fit in the car or go to Brick Link and get this battery box which has the compact size of the rechargeable battery box, but uses standard double-A batteries (this would probably be your best bet).

Where did that box on BL come from? Is it a pack-in? It's a shame LEGO doesn't sell it separately, it's much much cheaper than the rechargeable one.

[Pet-Lego]

Where did that box on BL come from? Is it a pack-in? It's a shame LEGO doesn't sell it separately, it's much much cheaper than the rechargeable one.

Rumour says that the triple a (AAA) battery box will be sold separately on S@H after the holiday season.

[locoworks]

Even with IR and train remote on first level it's too fast. I tried it and it really "flies" (and derails). I'm now experimenting with lower voltage (3xAA = 4,5 volts or 4xAA = 6 volts). I tried it "on bench" with regulated power source and it works nice with either volatage (I was afraid that IR recievier would not work) and the speed ir really slower. Now I just have to modify battery box to connect just 3 or 4 batteries and see if it's still powerfull enough to pull 3 wagons.

why not power a carriage instead with smaller wheels?? or maybe fit a gearbox to the loco?

[eric87]

ok i just got done powering my little girls toy story train . that is the train she wanted under the tree this year. it was very easy. i just used the motor and power functions off the new cargo train . 1st i put the big red wheels right on the motor. dropped one plate off the bottom of the locomotive, and it sat level. 2nd i put the ir reciever in the passenger car. no mod here. just opened the doors so wires could run in and out. 3rd i put the battery box in the box car. this worked really nice. i added a few parts to the trap door to turn the battery on and off when you push on the door. the train runs just fine on the first three speeds after that it goes so fast that it will fly right off the track. we only use the first three speeds. overall i am very happy how simple this was to do. there is also still plenty of room for woody and all his pals to ride on the train.

[teflon]

@Cwetqo. I am also excited about the TS3 train. Have you used M motor or train motor for your MOD? It seems that Eric' MOD can "survive" up to speed of 3 with PF train motor. Or perhaps you are using rechargeable battery.

Thanks in advance for the answer. I would really like to have that train with motor.

[eric87]

@Cwetqo. I am also excited about the TS3 train. Have you used M motor or train motor for your MOD? It seems that Eric' MOD can "survive" up to speed of 3 with PF train motor. Or perhaps you are using rechargeable battery.

Thanks in advance for the answer. I would really like to have that train with motor.

i did use the rechargeable battery.

[thebrickbutcher]

I was looking at the box art. Has anyone with the set tried to motorize it? Perhaps make a 9v motorized tender? Does it work on standard 9v tracks? Are the drivers compatible with the tracks?

Well here is how i did it, mybe a little different, but it works well.

the video is on my site:

http://www.thebrickbutcher.blogspot.com

There is a thread (somewhere on here) about the set, where a customer tender is made around a 9V train motor. This tender actually then pushes the train and pulls the carriages.

If you have no existing track or motors then it is time for a trip to either Bricklink or Shop @ Home to pick up the necessary bits. I.e. a power functions motor brick #8866, and battery box #8878. If you want to have it remove controlled then you need to add the IR receiver #8884 and controller #8879.

Note the new train sets (7898 and 7897) have a different motor / battery box combo - you can generally find these stripped out and available seperately on ebay. There may also be plans by Lego to release these as new kit elements in 2011 (I heard a rumour once) but no idea if it will come to pass.

Well here is how i did it, maybe a little different, but it works well. Some emailed my youtube channel and asked me how to do it as well.

the video is on my site:

http://www.thebrickb...er.blogspot.com

[JopieK]

In the video you confuse the PF with the RC motor. It was a good explanation, but I don't like to modify the LEGO if that is not absolutely needed.

[thebrickbutcher]

In the video you confuse the PF with the RC motor. It was a good explanation, but I don't like to modify the LEGO if that is not absolutely needed.

i think i was trying to distingush between the PF and the RC motor. As I see it the pf motors are those big grey ugly round ones, while the RC motor is the new black one very similar to the 9V motor.

I'm not fond of modifying True LEGO either but I do, I'm sure there are many other ways to modify the engine to accomplish this task, but this was the way I did it.

Freddie

[JopieK]

i think i was trying to distingush between the PF and the RC motor. As I see it the pf motors are those big grey ugly round ones, while the RC motor is the new black one very similar to the 9V motor.

I'm not fond of modifying True LEGO either but I do, I'm sure there are many other ways to modify the engine to accomplish this task, but this was the way I did it.

Freddie

Well, that makes it clear to me but doesn't make it right ;)

http://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm

[Rustie86]

i think i was trying to distingush between the PF and the RC motor. As I see it the pf motors are those big grey ugly round ones, while the RC motor is the new black one very similar to the 9V motor.

There are actually two different versions of the new train motor brick (the 9v-motor-shaped motor). One came out with the first pair of RC trains, and had grey axle cams (the thingys inside the motor where the axle slides in), while the other came out with the trans powered by the full Power Functions system, and have orange axle sprockets. Thus they are referred to as RC and PF motors, respectively. The big gray motors come in two sizes and are know by those: Medium (M) and Extra Large (XL).

AND KNOWING IS HALF THE BATTLE

[bpwilly3]

yup. wheels are the same as on the emerald night. You can actually just toss a PF motor on there, and that will do it. Of course, I tried to motorize it and this is what happened:

How in the %$&* did you make that?

If you have instructions could you email them to me at bpwilly3@hotmail.com

[Carefree_Dude]

Lets just say it involved a couple toy story trains, plenty of lego, a couple weeks, and a lot of rum.