pdxbricks Posted January 22, 2010 Posted January 22, 2010 (edited) Hi all! I got out of my dark ages right at the end of the 9V era, and I was able to collect quite a few of curved tracks, some straight tracks, but none of the 9V switching points . Since the RC counterpart 7895 is still available, I thought I could apply the tinned copper foil and use those instead. I found the 1/4" 3M self-adhesive tinned Cu tape and applied it to all the tracks, with good results. However, I soon realized that I need to make additional connections between two segments. I was going to upload the picture here to show the segments in question, but I wasn't able to do it (I'm new ). I know that people have successfully done this with 7996, so I was hoping someone would share their experience here. Thanks. Update, here is the photo, with two pairs of segments joined by lines in different color. Does someone have a neat solution that will not be very visible? Edited January 24, 2010 by TheBrickster Quote
Killerrabbit Posted January 23, 2010 Posted January 23, 2010 (edited) Hi all!I got out of my dark ages right at the end of the 9V era, and I was able to collect quite a few of curved tracks, some straight tracks, but none of the 9V switching points . Since the RC counterpart 7895 is still available, I thought I could apply the tinned copper foil and use those instead. I found the 1/4" 3M self-adhesive tinned Cu tape and applied it to all the tracks, with good results. However, I soon realized that I need to make additional connections between two segments. I was going to upload the picture here to show the segments in question, but I wasn't able to do it (I'm new ). I know that people have successfully done this with 7996, so I was hoping someone would share their experience here. Thanks. Update, here is the photo, with two pairs of segments joined by lines in different color. Does someone have a neat solution that will not be very visible? IMAGE I guess you could drill a very small hole in the plastic and draw a small wire under the track to the next point? Edited January 23, 2010 by Killerrabbit Quote
aawsum Posted January 23, 2010 Posted January 23, 2010 OK, I do not own any 9V track, but why would you need that. Looking at the existing track (which is available on bricklink BTW) I do not see this as well. Quote
pdxbricks Posted January 23, 2010 Author Posted January 23, 2010 OK, I do not own any 9V track, but why would you need that.Looking at the existing track (which is available on bricklink BTW) I do not see this as well. Well, it is available on bricklink, but I can get two new switches for less than the price of one on BL. Also, looking closer at the picture you attached, I think I can see where the connection is made, it is probably molded in the plastic. Without making the connections there won't be current in the two segments, so the train will stop once it passes the switch. I've tried this. I hate drilling through LEGO, but I guess I'll have to do it, if that is the best solution. Using tape would just be too bulky. Thanks for the suggestions. Quote
skaako Posted April 27, 2010 Posted April 27, 2010 Hi, here's some photo's of my points and crossover conversion of RC track. I use aluminium self adhesive tape for this, there is no need for soldering as i cut the sections in one piece. These were my first attempts, i have had straight and curved rail coated with aluminium tape running successfully for the last year or so. http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=425176 I'll have to add the photos of my modified points also at some stage. Next step is to find a supplier of some thin nickel plated steel strips that i can fold and the glue onto straight sections of rc track. Quote
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