Cyber Master Posted July 29, 2021 Posted July 29, 2021 (edited) Here's my attempt at repairing the old cyber master brick. The motors are quite small and out of nine units that i have, seven don't even work anymore. I found these motors on amazon and put the grey gear from the internal gearbox on it. I had to cut off the decoder part of the gear due to space limitations. Looks like a perfect fit :) Need to cut into the battery compartment, but that shouldn't affect the end result (will install small LiPO battery). That's it for now. Need to order new ca glue to continue^^ Edited July 29, 2021 by Cyber Master Quote
skaah Posted July 29, 2021 Posted July 29, 2021 That's really nice! Mine is also broken, I never got it to work. Guess you have a dedicated old pc as well to run the old software? Quote
Cyber Master Posted July 29, 2021 Author Posted July 29, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, skaah said: That's really nice! Mine is also broken, I never got it to work. Guess you have a dedicated old pc as well to run the old software? I won't be using the old stuff :D New circuit board and control software coming along with it. (Yeah i have an old win95 PC that runs it... let's say it "runs") Edited July 29, 2021 by Cyber Master Quote
Toastie Posted July 29, 2021 Posted July 29, 2021 5 hours ago, skaah said: Guess you have a dedicated old pc as well to run the old software? Well, I don't know about the Cybermaster software, but so far, I'd claim that virtually all LEGO software runs on a Win10 64 bit laptop (I am using) - except for 32 bit USB drivers, e.g. required for the RIS software. OK, needs some tinkering, but works; there seem to be workarounds for every issue (so far); in case of the RIS USB tower and lack of RS232 ports on modern laptops: Use a quality USB to serial converter, make sure the COM port used by converter is < COM9 and all serial LEGO stuff works flawlessly. As far as I can tell. Best Thorsten Quote
Cyber Master Posted August 1, 2021 Author Posted August 1, 2021 (edited) Some progress: Small drive test: https://i.imgur.com/izLCXjA.mp4 I prepared the 2nd motor and soldered two DRV8872-Q1 from Texas Instruments to a test board. Those small IC's are really good, they can handle 6.8V to 45V and up to 3.6A (+Thermal Shutdown, Overcurrent Protection...) The best part is that i can still take out the motors, they are not glued to the frame. Perfect fit! Next is the design of a new circuit board... could take a while^^ Edited August 1, 2021 by Cyber Master Quote
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