SteamSewnEmpire Posted March 6, 2021 Posted March 6, 2021 (edited) I'm going to assume that for 10-coupled it's: none-FLANGE-none-FLANGE-none But is that correct for all scenarios (even ones where there is no lead truck)? And what is the best arrangement for 8-coupled? Is it better to lead with the flange? Trail with it? Go FLANGE-none-none-FLANGE...? Edited March 6, 2021 by SteamSewnEmpire Quote
Pdaitabird Posted March 6, 2021 Posted March 6, 2021 For 10-coupled engines, I can't say as I've never built one. For an 0-8-0, the center of gravity (CoG) will determine whether to lead with a blind or flanged driver. You want the CoG to be between the flanged drivers as the outermost pair of blind drivers will hang off the rails on curves. This prevents tipping up if the engine is heavier at one end. Unfortunately I don't think there is a way to determine the weight distribution in LDD. Quote
SteamSewnEmpire Posted March 6, 2021 Author Posted March 6, 2021 16 minutes ago, Pdaitabird said: For 10-coupled engines, I can't say as I've never built one. For an 0-8-0, the center of gravity (CoG) will determine whether to lead with a blind or flanged driver. You want the CoG to be between the flanged drivers as the outermost pair of blind drivers will hang off the rails on curves. This prevents tipping up if the engine is heavier at one end. Unfortunately I don't think there is a way to determine the weight distribution in LDD. I can take a guess based on motor placement. Thanks. Quote
Karle Posted March 6, 2021 Posted March 6, 2021 I've built several 8 and 10 coupled steam engines. I prefer to have the flanges on the first and last drivers, the reason is to reduce the amount of over hang in the curves. I should note that the motors are mounted in the boiler and the minimum radius they will negotiate is 104R. Quote
Duq Posted March 6, 2021 Posted March 6, 2021 My first one was a 1'D2' / 2-8-4, the German BR 65. That had flanges on the first and last axle. With the axles 4 studs apart this the limit of what you'll get through standard Lego points. BR65 Drivetrain by Duq, on Flickr The next one was a D / 0-8-0, the BR 55. On this loco the axles are 4 1/2 studs apart so I put the flanges on the 2nd and 4th axle. That choice was because it has a tender so I wanted to minimise overhang at the back. BR55 Drive train by Duq, on Flickr Currently working on an E / 0-10-0 and it'll have flanges on the 2nd and 5th with axle spacing back to 4 studs. No pictures yet... Quote
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