[moc] CP H1e 4-6-4 Royal Hudson

[SteamSewnEmpire]

I don't know why, but after like 10 hours of working on this, it still looks off to me. The photos line up, and I incorporated a lot of extra SNOT stuff (I'm particularly happy with how the steps to the cab turned out - I feel like they are about as slender as they could be) to push the envelope... but something still feels wrong. Sigh. Oh well.

[Ts__]

Nice and a massive build and i love some details.

For the first, i have two suggestions:

- use reddish brown windows instead red windows

- for me: the 2x4 black tiles are too massive at the side. 1x4 tiles are too small. Maybe use 3-4 plates or 1 x brick with 1 tile above

Questions:

- do you will buiild this locomotive in real? What is your drive setup in this case?

 

Thomas

Edited June 29, 2020 by Ts__

[SteamSewnEmpire]

27 minutes ago, Ts__ said:

Nice and a massive build and i love some details.

For the first, i have two suggestions:

- use reddish brown windows instead red windows

- for me: the 2x4 black tiles are too massive at the side. 1x4 tiles are too small. Maybe use 3-4 plates or 1 x brick with 1 tile above

Questions:

- do you will buiild this locomotive in real? What is your drive setup in this case?

 

Thomas

I'll change the colors. Unfortunately, the boiler playing precludes using anything but tiles on the sides.

[bogieman]

I agree it looks great as well as with the color of the windows suggestion. But of course I have to add some suggestions:

- The cab to me looks short by one stud; a 2x2 instead of a 1x2 tile forward of the side windows would be good.

- The rear of the tender also looks too short; I'd change the 2x4 tile section to another 6x6 panel.

Dave

[Pdaitabird]

That's beautiful! 

[JWBDolphins]

That looks unbelievably good!  bogieman beat me to the one thing I noticed - the cab might be 1 stud too short.  I think a few well-placed stickers will go a long way to make it really look like the source.

Nice Job!!!

 

[zephyr1934]

I think you did a great job capturing the essence of this locomotive. It might be worth attempting the running boards studs up instead of tiles out. I bet 3 or 4 plates would get the height right. Of course for the experiment you don't need to make it structurally sound, just a quick mocup to see if it looks better. You might even want to try it in dark red or reddish brown.

 

21 hours ago, SteamSewnEmpire said:

A close look at the above comparison, it looks like the front of the smokebox on the lego model is to the right by 1-2 studs of the HO or O gauge model. I wouldn't worry about lining up the pilot as you did since the lego wheels force one to distort pilots etc. Also, don't assume that the model is 100% accurate, they might have altered features to meet their needs, e.g., the large gap between the loco and tender.

 

Anyway, looking good.

[Phil B]

20 hours ago, SteamSewnEmpire said:

I'll change the colors. Unfortunately, the boiler playing precludes using anything but tiles on the sides.

How about a plate and a 1x4x1 panel? That should give you space for the boiler.

[supertruper1988]

I think I liked your previous version better. 

 

CP Royal Hudson 3 by Shrike Arghast, on Flickr

[SteamSewnEmpire]

1 hour ago, supertruper1988 said:

I think I liked your previous version better. 

 

CP Royal Hudson 3 by Shrike Arghast, on Flickr

I didn't make that.

I'm putting you on ignore. Sorry, but the harassment has got to stop.

Edited July 11, 2020 by SteamSewnEmpire

[rcnday]

It does look better then my current try of the royal paint scheme

Edited September 17, 2020 by rcnday

[SteamSewnEmpire]

2 hours ago, rcnday said:

It does look better then my current try of the royal paint scheme

I really like that. I think you're doing an awesome job. Do you have more photos? I am intrigued.

[rcnday]

i can't seem to add more photos so i will add them to my flikr account

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/189954754@N06/50354032916/in/dateposted-public/

 

Edited September 17, 2020 by rcnday

[SteamSewnEmpire]

1 hour ago, rcnday said:

i can't seem to add more photos so i will add them to my flikr account

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/189954754@N06/50354032916/in/dateposted-public/

 

That's really first-rate stuff, man. Do you plan to use custom XXL wheels?

[zephyr1934]

15 hours ago, rcnday said:

i can't seem to add more photos so i will add them to my flikr account

Yeah, the minimal amount of storage you have on Eurobricks is to store photos for your avatar, signature, etc.. Detail shots for your posts should be hosted elsewhere.

[rcnday]

I just got a set of XL wheels.

 

Do you think XXL would be better?

[SteamSewnEmpire]

1 hour ago, rcnday said:

I just got a set of XL wheels.

 

Do you think XXL would be better?

Sadly, yes. 

[rcnday]

ok, then I'll order bigger wheels.

Anything else you all can pass as recommendations

 

Zephyr1934,

 

What size rod would i have to order to work with XXL wheels?

[zephyr1934]

13 hours ago, rcnday said:

What size rod would i have to order to work with XXL wheels?

Most likely 3 hole 13 long, but ultimately it would be equal to the spacing of the axles for the wheels.

Before ordering rods or more wheels, I would suggest you build up a frame to test the wheels and clearances with the XL wheels since you have them. This way you can make sure the design can handle any curve or switch you plan to put it through before spending money on parts for a design you ultimately have to revise. You can even simulate the XXL, the XL require an 11 long wheelbase while the XXL 13 long. Ideally make sure you have something where the cylinders will go, check the corners of the tender relative to the cab, etc.. While you are at it, you can even test performance on uneven track (unless you only to plan to run it at home, where it is easier to eliminate bumpy track).

I'm doing all this myself on a new build, and while the loco would look better with XXL drivers, it is enough of a challenge to make it work on R40 curves with XL drivers.

 

[rcnday]

2 hours ago, zephyr1934 said:

Most likely 3 hole 13 long, but ultimately it would be equal to the spacing of the axles for the wheels.

Before ordering rods or more wheels, I would suggest you build up a frame to test the wheels and clearances with the XL wheels since you have them. This way you can make sure the design can handle any curve or switch you plan to put it through before spending money on parts for a design you ultimately have to revise. You can even simulate the XXL, the XL require an 11 long wheelbase while the XXL 13 long. Ideally make sure you have something where the cylinders will go, check the corners of the tender relative to the cab, etc.. While you are at it, you can even test performance on uneven track (unless you only to plan to run it at home, where it is easier to eliminate bumpy track).

I'm doing all this myself on a new build, and while the loco would look better with XXL drivers, it is enough of a challenge to make it work on R40 curves with XL drivers.

 

I'm running R104 curves so it should not be a problem