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Posted

I have to move my layout soon, and I’m taking the time to rearrange it while I’m at it. My train loop seems to be suffering as a result, as I have to eliminate a couple of turns, and now it looks very plain . . so the obvious solution is to install a ramp! By converting a place where it crosses the road into a bridge I can have a train station right above the road. I have two long (approximately five lengths of 16-long track and four curves that can also adjust the elevation) stretches that would be perfect for elevating, and it doesn’t need to get too high, maybe seven or eight bricks above ground level.

So how does one go about building a ramp for a train? I’m sure this has come up before but I can’t seem to find any topics relating to the matter.

Posted

From everything I have read, it seems the suggested grade is a plate per length of straight track. Depending on your trains, some running smaller trains with more powerful locomotives, you could probably get away with two plates. I have never built an incline so I don't know from personal experience, this is just what I have read on here.

Posted

Depends on your trains and how fast they'll approach the ramps.  You could make some test ramps to see what works with your trains and particular situation.  We did one brick per straight section of track elevation with speedy short trains.

Posted
  On 10/23/2019 at 2:15 AM, dr_spock said:

Depends on your trains and how fast they'll approach the ramps.  You could make some test ramps to see what works with your trains and particular situation.  We did one brick per straight section of track elevation with speedy short trains.

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My train consists of the Hidden Side train rigged up to an old 2008 motor I had from when I was a kid designed to look like a passenger car. So one (weak) motor and three carriages, two of which are really small. Testing is a good idea, why didn’t I think of that?

Posted

Update; just tested it by propping my existing track up with a couple of trucks and a camper van. An inelegant but effective solution. Turns out my crappy ten-year-old wheels don’t have enough grip strength on the rails to maintain traction. Is there any way to fix this? Maybe replace the rubber?

Posted (edited)
  On 10/23/2019 at 2:45 AM, Feng-huang0296 said:

Update; just tested it by propping my existing track up with a couple of trucks and a camper van. An inelegant but effective solution. Turns out my crappy ten-year-old wheels don’t have enough grip strength on the rails to maintain traction. Is there any way to fix this? Maybe replace the rubber?

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Hi @Feng-huang0296,

yes the inclines are way too steep for a PF/PU train (even a new one). You absolutely have to stick with one plate per straight track. You maybe can expand this to 2 plates per straight track for very light weight trains, but steeper inclines won't work (except for 12V trains and tracks).

You have also take another point into consideration: The transition from flat tracks to inclined tracks. This have to be very subtle and gradual to prevent trains with a huge nose overhang to get stuck (espcially steam locomotives with a pilot). 

So long story short: to get up 7 to eight bricks in just 5 straight track pieces won't work.

Here can you see how I have done it: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=565254

I have a little over one plate per straight track on the steepest incline in my layout, and this works fine with my trains, although I had to use two motors for my extremely heavy Horizon Express. I also had to adjust the gradual incline during the transition from straight track to inclined track for my Emerald Night. But now it works like a charm for all of my trains.

BR, Guenther

  On 10/23/2019 at 1:57 AM, Chiaroscuro said:

tmctiger created an incredible layout that includes a train ramp. Take a lot at his topic:

...

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P.s.: Thanks @Chiaroscuro for mentioning my layout :blush: ...

[Edit]Added some additional things[/Edit]

Edited by tmctiger

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