Keeping a 9V motor 10153/5300 in good condition

[legotrainfan]

The production of 9V motors 10153 has ended. The price for a new one has already risen on eBay and on bricklink they are not cheap either. So my question is what can be done to make them work as long as possible? I've got a motor from 1991 and it still works. The only thing I do is to remove the dust that usually gathers between the metallic wheels and the round plastic thing on the metallic wheels; the things that keep the metallic wheels in their places. I only use a clean and dry tissue to remove the dust. Does dust get into the motor itself as well? There seem to be no screws to open it.

Any ideas how to keep a motor in good condition? I'd be glad to hear some ideas and experiences!

[Freddie]

I've got one; never let them run hot, but let them cool down to avoid overheating and thus severely reducing their lifetime. Stress is a major factor in a motor going warm - let motors work in tandem, and have as much power up front, preferably all of it, to avoid motors working uneccesarily hard by pushing cars. Few people know that the "RC"-motors are just as violent as their older cousins, and when they pick up their power through the older motor, they're just as useful. The real killer with those was the meek battery-box which severely limited the power available.

Otherwise they should run fine forever. If you've already got a dead motor, it's possible to take out the motor and drivetrain, and simply convert it to a power pick-up and let the newer motors pick up power through it.

[trooperdavinfelth]

I have three or four. All four have lived and run perfectly, and none have died. I probably should get several and put them aside for backup use should one or two die. My biggest suggestion is get several now when you can and as Freddie said, don't overheat them, or at least don't run them at high speeds consistently simply for the sheer joy of watching your poor train derail. (I constantly try to convince my brother that they will die; he still does it, the di'kut! )

[simonwillems]

....it's possible to take out the motor and drivetrain, and simply convert it to a power pick-up and let the newer motors pick up power through it.

Do you kow how to open up a motor?

I recently bought a second hand presumably very old and heavy used motor, it looks very scratched and worn out an the top notch has gone (so it can only be used for trains built directly on top of the motor), but it still runs. It does run significantly slower though, not responding to the first stripe on the speedregulator.... It is still powerful but only at high speed and the trains equipped with it are unable to derail in curves because of the lowered speed.

Well, it was only 7,50 euros, so I am not really complaining...

So I guess, as motors age they do not stop running, they just run slower.

Edit: under the current exchange rate motors aren't that expensive on Bricklink, especially those coming from the US!

Edited April 14, 2008 by simonwillems

[trooperdavinfelth]

Do you kow how to open up a motor?

I recently bought a second hand presumably very old and heavy used motor, it looks very scratched and worn out an the top notch has gone (so it can only be used for trains built directly on top of the motor), but it still runs. It does run significantly slower though, not responding to the first stripe on the speedregulator.... It is still powerful but only at high speed and the trains equipped with it are unable to derail in curves because of the lowered speed.

Well, it was only 7,50 euros, so I am not really complaining...

So I guess, as motors age they do not stop running, they just run slower.

Oh! So using your motor until it grows too old to go fast will solve the problem of derailing?

[simonwillems]

Oh! So using your motor until it grows too old to go fast will solve the problem of derailing?

The perfect solution to end all the fun ehrm... to an all too common problem

[Freddie]

Do you kow how to open up a motor?

I have absolutely no idea how to do so, but I do know there are tutorials lying around on the web somewhere. I've seen my brother try to break open one of his, with dire results, so do go look for and at them before making any attempts.

See, my motors are yet to be run into the ground (apart from one, but then again it's fine enough for stationary "use"), and one hasn't been run at all since I got it. So I haven't had any interest in converting my motors into pick-ups.

[trooperdavinfelth]

The perfect solution to end all the fun ehrm... to an all too common problem

Ha ha!

Although I've noticed that a train will only derail if it's less than a certain length(which is quite long) or if the track is a strict circle or oval. If it's an ellipse, the larger the stretches of straight track the harder to derail.

[simonwillems]

so do go look for and at them before making any attempts.

There has not been any reason for me to try and attempt such a risky undertaking, so I'll leave my motors closed for now.

Although I've noticed that a train will only derail if it's less than a certain length(which is quite long) or if the track is a strict circle or oval. If it's an ellipse, the larger the stretches of straight track the harder to derail.

For me that is a little different: I keep my train layout in the attic of an old house from 1910 which has tilted a bit since it was built.... That way when the train rides the oval track it rides faster one way then it does the other and the trains will derail more easily on the down end. :skull:

It also depends on the center of gravity of the trains of course and the weight of the whole thing...

[legotrainfan]

Thanks for all your comments! More ideas are still welcome though!

Simonwillems, I doubt that 10153 motors bought in the US are cheaper. Of course, there is the exchange rate, which is good for European customers when they buy something in the US. But what about shipping costs to Europe and customs fees?

I also have no ideas how to open a motor. At the moment I have 16 motors. 14 are in use and 2 are MISB. No motor I have has stopped working so far. Just want to make them work as long as I can. The battery box for the future power functions train is quite big. Quite hard to convert smaller locomotives.

[trooperdavinfelth]

For me that is a little different: I keep my train layout in the attic of an old house from 1910 which has tilted a bit since it was built.... That way when the train rides the oval track it rides faster one way then it does the other and the trains will derail more easily on the down end. :skull:

It also depends on the center of gravity of the trains of course and the weight of the whole thing...

Well, I usually set up on a flat surface, and I was generally referring to a flat surface. Sometimes I try and raise the tracks and set a single motor on the track to get the two-yard-long train it's trying to pull over the hump.

That's an easy way to derail it; on an angle! We have a few lapdesks around so I think I can join em' together and try something that way.

Yikes dude, 16 motors? That's FREAKIN' AWESOME! *looks at username* Oh, well, nevermind.

Edited April 14, 2008 by trooperdavinfelth

[legotrainfan]

Yikes dude, 16 motors? That's FREAKIN' AWESOME! *looks at username* Oh, well, nevermind.

Guess why I opened this thread! When I lose one motor after the other due to old age, I'll also say YIKES! I cannot afford buying 12 motors just to have a replacement motor for every engine. Far too expensive, but I would do so if I won the lottery!

The following sets I have all had a motor included: 3225 (got it in used condition), 4511, 4512, 4551 (got in used c.), 4563, 4564 (got in used but excellent c.), 4565, 10001. My oldest motor came with set 4563, which I got in my childhood. I can't say how long the motor of set 4551 has been in use since it was used.

Other sets where I added a motor (got the sets all MISB): 2x 10020, 10133, 10173, 10183, 10205.

...plus the two 10153 motors that are still MISB equals 16.

EDIT: Three or four years ago, I bought two 9V motors for 22 euro each. Some months later I bought two more motors from the same seller for 24 euro each. Those were good times to get a motor! I wish they were so cheap now!

Edited April 14, 2008 by legotrainfan

[trooperdavinfelth]

Guess why I opened this thread! When I lose one motor after the other due to old age, I'll also say YIKES! I cannot afford buying 12 motors just to have a replacement motor for every engine. Far too expensive, but I would do so if I won the lottery!

The following sets I have all had a motor included: 3225 (got it in used condition), 4511, 4512, 4551 (got in used c.), 4563, 4564 (got in used but excellent c.), 4565, 10001. My oldest motor came with set 4563, which I got in my childhood. I can't say how long the motor of set 4551 has been in use since it was used.

Other sets where I added a motor (got the sets all MISB): 2x 10020, 10133, 10173, 10183, 10205.

...plus the two 10153 motors that are still MISB equals 16.

EDIT: Three or four years ago, I bought two 9V motors for 22 euro each. Some months later I bought two more motors from the same seller for 24 euro each. Those were good times to get a motor! I wish they were so cheap now!

Opfwoof; way to go! I got about a fifth of all the train sets I wanted back in the day.

I gotta check EBay; I really should start investing in motors...