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Posted (edited)

So, right off the bat I need to apologize: I cannot do renders while on the road. My parents' computer is not capable of such advanced technical sorcery.

Second, I changed my mind (as I am prone to do) and went with 8w for the JNR. Ultimately, I feel like a loading gauge of 9.6 feet is so close to North America's ~10 feet that it wasn't worth jumping down. So this is a 5w wheel base (3w between the rails) on what amounts to a nearly full-sized locomotive and tender (which is essentially what the JNR's 3'6" cape gauge is - it's "ultimate" narrow gauge).

I'm very happy with how this engine turned out, although it would definitely require a fair number of stickers for the gold boiler striping, white on the tender, more white on the running boards, etc. If I can find the motivation, I'm going to attempt a C62 4-6-4 next (I was really torn between these two), though I may hold off on it and do some cars, instead.

Proto:

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Model:

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Edited by ProvenceTristram
Posted

An excellent Mikado! Even without a render, the high level of detail is apparent. I agree that some stickers would really set it off as a physical build. (I think I've heard of a way to add custom decals in LDD, but, like most of the dark arts, it seems to be a closely guarded secret!)

Posted (edited)
21 minutes ago, Pdaitabird said:

An excellent Mikado! Even without a render, the high level of detail is apparent. I agree that some stickers would really set it off as a physical build. (I think I've heard of a way to add custom decals in LDD, but, like most of the dark arts, it seems to be a closely guarded secret!)

I did cheat a bit - elements of the smoke lifters are unsupported. I would fuse the pieces with modeling glue IRL. While this is a sin, and not a move I typically (or, really, ever) resort to, in this case (and in the case of all future such elements on an engine), I feel like the necessity of maintaining the narrowness of the part outweighs the gravity of the crime. In essence: deflectors are such an oddball item that I think they require a custom part - much like, say, third party wheels - to produce satisfactory results.

Edited by ProvenceTristram
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Have you considered using turntable  tops for the smoke deflectors? They are thinner than the boat studs often used for the same purpose of "backing/connecting" plates that are otherwise hard to connect. 

They don't come in black though.  But if truly desired, I feel painting a part is a far lesser "sin" than gluing.  (Since even LEGO spray paints their own parts to get the metallic silver and gold ones). 

Edited by steele
  • 4 years later...
Posted

Beautiful design mate! I'm such a fan of Japanese steam engines. They look real mighty especially in the snow!

Also, they remind me of the steam engines that used to run from Singapore to Malaysia (MR 'O' 56 Class). They look rather similar.  

Also, I know that those Japanese Steam engines ran on 'almost a metre gauge' (1067mm) track.. which I think you can pass off as '4-wide' narrow gauge track under 8-wide scale trains. The reason I brought it up is because my MR O 56 Class (below) runs on metre gauge hence the reason I opted for the 4-wide narrow gauge tracks.

With the many tracks and switches available from TrixBrix, you can easily have your steam loco powered and running whilst in contrast to a 5-wide track, you have to manually make all your tracks and switches which can be a pain. 

My MOC and actual loco below:

MR 56 (O) Class - WIPSlide-Scans-April-2020476--564-33-en-route-Port-Klang-to-KL-flickr

 

 

Also,

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