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Posted

I have build a lego technic rc car withe two buggy motors for drive. The Problem is, when i turn the motors on and drive sright forword then at max speed the motrs are wearing slower and slower and then they stop. Then i must whait for about 5 secunds before the motrs can be turned back on. Why? What is the problem and how do I slove it?

Posted

Hi YamaLP,

welcome to Eurobricks.

 

Wich batterbox are you using? The buggy-motors need a lot of power, and the regular PF-battery-boxes cannot suply enough power for loaded buggy-motors.

You need at least 1 battery-box for each buggy-motor, or buwizz or  the Lego-RC-unit.

Could you post an image of your car?

Posted

 The Problem is that my phone can't take such low quality pictures that I can upload hear so I must du I the with a link.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0nljvQmMJmQeE1VbnVueHIwOFE/view?usp=drivesdk

This ist the battery box I have used in test. The plan was to power it with a pf box but the adapter cables haven't arived yet.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0nljvQmMJmQQmltS0VPbkM5Zzg/view?usp=drivesdk

That is the car from underneath. The gears between the two motors are for switching between the two outputs these motors have.

Posted
Just now, YamaLP said:

 The Problem is that my phone can't take such low quality pictures that I can upload hear so I must du I the with a link.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0nljvQmMJmQeE1VbnVueHIwOFE/view?usp=drivesdk

This ist the battery box I have used in test. The plan was to power it with a pf box but the adapter cables haven't arived yet.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0nljvQmMJmQQmltS0VPbkM5Zzg/view?usp=drivesdk

That is the car from underneath. The gears between the two motors are for switching between the two outputs these motors have.

Well yes... as i thought... this is the problem.

The old battery-boxes deliver even less power then the PF-boxes. With the PF-Box it will work a little bit better... but still, if you load the motors to much, the battery-box will give up fast.

Your chassis seems to be pretty light, so maybe you are lucky, and the PF-Box could work ok. But for full power, at hills or with a heavier chassis you will need 1 battery-box for each motor.

Posted
6 hours ago, TechnicSummse said:

But for full power, at hills or with a heavier chassis you will need 1 battery-box for each motor...

...or remove the overload protection from the PF battery box - which will give you plenty of power! :devil:

And this is how to do it:

  1. Open the battery box - instructions here.
  2. Find the protection - the square thing marked "HLSL" in the photo below.
  3. Remove the protection - either solder it out (and replace it with wire), or tape some aluminum foil over it. (I used copper foil tape)
  4. Put the battery box back together.

as4b.jpg

You can also find some more information here:

 

Posted

And wait for fireworks ...

8 hours ago, YamaLP said:

The Problem is that my phone can't take such low quality pictures that I can upload hear so I must du I the with a link.

It is not meant to upload pictures here, use some picture sharing service - bricksafe.com, flickr etc. then post link to image file here, and it will embed it automatically.

y2_N-VGWPc2Nirf5WHfbwawgJU3sOygp1Qk2OQoE

as You can see, You can also embed here pictures form google drive

Posted

I have disasembled one of my battery boxes but that put what i must take away. But I can't find the part. My Pf box is from 2006.

Posted
34 minutes ago, YamaLP said:

I have disasembled one of my battery boxes but that put what i must take away. But I can't find the part. My Pf box is from 2006.

Hmm... Could you post a photo of it?

Posted
7 hours ago, mocbuild101 said:

...or remove the overload protection from the PF battery box - which will give you plenty of power! :devil:

And this is how to do it:

  1. Open the battery box - instructions here.
  2. Find the protection - the square thing marked "HLSL" in the photo below.
  3. Remove the protection - either solder it out (and replace it with wire), or tape some aluminum foil over it. (I used copper foil tape)
  4. Put the battery box back together.

as4b.jpg

You can also find some more information here:

 

Wow! That's really cool. I love finding out about hacks like these.

Posted
2 hours ago, degenerate said:

Wasn't the PF system introduced in mid 2007?

Yes... It's probably a 2016 battery box then - as I think the 2016 production code would look the same as the 2006 one...

1 hour ago, LegoMonorailFan said:

Wow! That's really cool. I love finding out about hacks like these.

Yes, me too, especially when they are non-destructive ones like this (can be).

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Something else you can use beside foil or solder, is a rear window defogger repair kit. You can pick one up at most auto parts shops. It's like fingernail polish with metal bits in it. I have used it before to repair circuit boards. Sometimes you need to use several layers, it does work very well though. Doesn't damage the board and makes good contact. 

Posted
5 hours ago, TheLegoMas said:

Hello 
I have the same problem but I don't think it's the power because I am using a BuWizz Unit to power a single buggy motor.

Here are two images of my car I hope this helps.

i cannot see your pictures (404 error), but this might help:

the buggy motor also has a thermal resitor built in, when you load it too much, by example heavy gearing or a heavy model, there might be too much current flowing through the thermistor and shutting it down for a few minutes, to not damage the motor.

The Buwizz should have no issue powering 2 buggy motors it can deliver plenty of amps and this is why your buggy motor shuts itself down (my guess is you have a heavy model or geared it up too much, solution: gear down, or add another buggy motor)

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