[MOC] VIPER -Elite Full Function LEGO Light Tank

[MattL600]

So, I was experimenting with my first tracked set (Tracked racer 42065)

And came up with my RAPTOR H.W.B...

Then I experimented with that and...

Hurray! I am so proud of it! But it is not very good as it took up ALL my lego motors (because I have 3 broken that Lego owes me...)

Anyways as always I really need feedback because then it will help improve my builds and my theories.

Thanks guys :)

[MattL600]

Feedback pls

[PorkyMonster]

Nice video - something I'm way poorer at  producing.

Can't comment much about the modeling part, as I've no experience building tracked vehicles, but I think yours looks rather cute  because as a tank, it risks toppling over... too short and too tall... and if for real, firing at -41 degrees depression will send your tank flipping backwards.

Also, are you able to show some pictures on how your cannon works? I'm exploring some possibilities for my next build... 

 

[MattL600]

On 05/07/2017 at 5:32 PM, PorkyMonster said:

Nice video - something I'm way poorer at  producing.

Can't comment much about the modeling part, as I've no experience building tracked vehicles, but I think yours looks rather cute  because as a tank, it risks toppling over... too short and too tall... and if for real, firing at -41 degrees depression will send your tank flipping backwards.

Also, are you able to show some pictures on how your cannon works? I'm exploring some possibilities for my next build... 

 

Yes, It does topple over (LOL ) but being a tank this size I don't really offroad with it, and as I mentioned, I only have access the to tracks from 42065 

I learnt to edit this way because i used to make youtube poop and memes that can still be found on my channel HAHA! 

I should probably delete them because they kinda ruin my channel 

About the cannon, it uses a very heavily modified version of Sariel's T29 Autoloader as I have and will continue to do, I will always leave design credits in the description. I designed mine to be much more robust and shorter to fit the design of my little tank 

It uses a strong large lego spring and not the crossbow styles used in most other people's tanks. This means that the gun does not have recoil as the power is all transferred to the projectile in a slam motion and not in a gradual phase.

http://sariel.pl/2015/08/t29-shooting-mechanism/ is the link

Most small automated creations use this gun mechanism and is extremely popular, I really recommend it!

My modification of the gun has it being powered by an m motor and has it in a more compact design to allow great gun depression and elevation.

 

If you do not really like tracks, I really recommend building an APC but right now I'm working on a half-track...

 

One day I want to make a hillclimb racer with a low gear and high gear to allow it to climb hills then race down 

 

Anyways good luck mate!

 

Edited July 6, 2017 by MattL600
Wrong set number

[MattL600]

On 05/07/2017 at 5:32 PM, PorkyMonster said:

Nice video - something I'm way poorer at  producing.

Can't comment much about the modeling part, as I've no experience building tracked vehicles, but I think yours looks rather cute  because as a tank, it risks toppling over... too short and too tall... and if for real, firing at -41 degrees depression will send your tank flipping backwards.

Also, are you able to show some pictures on how your cannon works? I'm exploring some possibilities for my next build... 

 

I forgot to ask this in my reply, how many functions do you have on your average supercar?

I'm planning to build a supercar but I don't know what to include...

[PorkyMonster]

1 hour ago, MattL600 said:

I forgot to ask this in my reply, how many functions do you have on your average supercar?

I'm planning to build a supercar but I don't know what to include...

Hmm... I would build whatever features I want to play with (rather than what others think should be included) - things like AWD, fast with good suspension and steering geometry/angle, look good (personal taste), sizable and durable, etc. 

But if you look at other supercars in this forum, features many people include as basic are fake engine, transmission, connected steering wheel, stiff suspension and low ground clearance, plus good look. And if you're more game, you can also include stuff like AWD, some steering geometry, hog steer, adjustable spoiler/wing, adjustable seats, and motorize the whole thing. 

[MattL600]

49 minutes ago, PorkyMonster said:

Hmm... I would build whatever features I want to play with (rather than what others think should be included) - things like AWD, fast with good suspension and steering geometry/angle, look good (personal taste), sizable and durable, etc. 

But if you look at other supercars in this forum, features many people include as basic are fake engine, transmission, connected steering wheel, stiff suspension and low ground clearance, plus good look. And if you're more game, you can also include stuff like AWD, some steering geometry, hog steer, adjustable spoiler/wing, adjustable seats, and motorize the whole thing. 

Well for me, motorise is a must and maybe two speed, probably 4wd.

The biggest problem for me is the battery boxes, where should I put them?

[PorkyMonster]

53 minutes ago, MattL600 said:

Well for me, motorise is a must and maybe two speed, probably 4wd.

The biggest problem for me is the battery boxes, where should I put them?

 Yup, motorised is definitely more fun.

Nope, if you want 4 wheels to be driven while having multiple speeds (implying you'll be having a gearbox), go for Awd rather than 4wd - i.e. add a 3rd differential in between the two axles. Otherwise you'll put a lot of strain on your drive train.

Depending on the size of your build, battery boxes can go behind the seats and in front of the rear axle, or take the space of the boot (basically we want them located low, due to their weight). Another possible location is under the dashboard (but only feasible for larger build).

Motors are likely located in the belly or under the seats, while transmission is likely right along the drive train in the middle.

Btw, how many motors and battery boxes do you plan to use?

PS. My next build, the one I mentioned earlier which might have shooting mechanism, will be driven by 4 L motors and powered by 4 battery boxes ... but that'll wait, as I'm still having some fun with my other more immediate build, using 3rd party motor , right now.

[MattL600]

21 hours ago, PorkyMonster said:

 Yup, motorised is definitely more fun.

Nope, if you want 4 wheels to be driven while having multiple speeds (implying you'll be having a gearbox), go for Awd rather than 4wd - i.e. add a 3rd differential in between the two axles. Otherwise you'll put a lot of strain on your drive train.

Depending on the size of your build, battery boxes can go behind the seats and in front of the rear axle, or take the space of the boot (basically we want them located low, due to their weight). Another possible location is under the dashboard (but only feasible for larger build).

Motors are likely located in the belly or under the seats, while transmission is likely right along the drive train in the middle.

Btw, how many motors and battery boxes do you plan to use?

PS. My next build, the one I mentioned earlier which might have shooting mechanism, will be driven by 4 L motors and powered by 4 battery boxes ... but that'll wait, as I'm still having some fun with my other more immediate build, using 3rd party motor , right now.

2 XL and 2 M:

2 XL - Drive

1 M - Steering

1 M - 2 Speed gearbox

How should i gear it?

On my halftrack i am using Sariels two speed and I plan to use it again but I will also add additional gears.

Is a 1.667:1 gear ratio used two times reasonable?

Edited July 9, 2017 by MattL600
Wrong gear ratio

[PorkyMonster]

9 hours ago, MattL600 said:

How should i gear it?

Is a 1.667:1 gear ratio used two times reasonable?

 No one can advice you on that without knowing the size of your model... 

Be adventurous - try out different ratio and see what happens first hand.

[MattL600]

2 hours ago, PorkyMonster said:

 No one can advice you on that without knowing the size of your model... 

Be adventurous - try out different ratio and see what happens first hand.

Oh no...

[PorkyMonster]

1 hour ago, MattL600 said:

Oh no...

 is trial and error THAT scary? I do that all the time... build, tear down, rebuild, tear down, rebuild again, tear down again... ... ... LOL 

but to test which gearing works best, one way is to build a prototype - ignore the form/beauty, just build one big ugly chunk that is roughly the size you're after, with batteries included, must have the exact wheels you're going to use, but need not have steering and suspension, then build your motor and gearing as an easily replaceable attachment. so when you try to drive that "chunk", you'll more or less get a good feel of the gearing you like... after that, then tear down and rebuild everything properly with the final gearing.

[MattL600]

21 hours ago, PorkyMonster said:

 is trial and error THAT scary? I do that all the time... build, tear down, rebuild, tear down, rebuild again, tear down again... ... ... LOL 

but to test which gearing works best, one way is to build a prototype - ignore the form/beauty, just build one big ugly chunk that is roughly the size you're after, with batteries included, must have the exact wheels you're going to use, but need not have steering and suspension, then build your motor and gearing as an easily replaceable attachment. so when you try to drive that "chunk", you'll more or less get a good feel of the gearing you like... after that, then tear down and rebuild everything properly with the final gearing.

So basically I should put the gearing on the test cart and load it up with weight?

Also, what 2 speed gearbox should I use?

Keep in mind I don't have any Porsche gearbox pieces

[PorkyMonster]

2 hours ago, MattL600 said:

Also, what 2 speed gearbox should I use?

Keep in mind I don't have any Porsche gearbox pieces

Which means you can only do non-synchronous gearbox... see if you have the parts for this simple 2-Speed design then:

Just something I created to show you the basic parts of a typical AWD drivetrain using 2 XL motors... for your reference... you can copy partially or entirely, up to you. But you'll have to figure out how to substitute parts you don't have, and brace all the parts properly... otherwise it won't be fun .

 

Edited July 11, 2017 by PorkyMonster

[MattL600]

2 hours ago, PorkyMonster said:

Which means you can only do non-synchronous gearbox... see if you have the parts for this simple 2-Speed design then:

Just something I created to show you the basic parts of a typical AWD drivetrain using 2 XL motors... for your reference... you can copy partially or entirely, up to you. But you'll have to figure out how to substitute parts you don't have, and brace all the parts properly... otherwise it won't be fun .

 

I have the older gearbox pieces, where can that get me?

[PorkyMonster]

52 minutes ago, MattL600 said:

I have the older gearbox pieces, where can that get me?

Which pieces? Any picture?

[MattL600]

https://goo.gl/photos/kwusFBvQJf5B2aNF8

 

Sorry, I didn't add the full image, this is the reason I never do it, because of the file limits.

The image shows the two parts and the great connector is just for size reference.

 

[PorkyMonster]

2 hours ago, MattL600 said:

https://goo.gl/photos/kwusFBvQJf5B2aNF8

Sorry, I didn't add the full image, this is the reason I never do it, because of the file limits.

The image shows the two parts and the great connector is just for size reference.

Hmm... in that case you can try synchronous gearbox... but you'll need more gears, as follows (click image for the lxf file):

Again, this is just a rough guide... you'll have to figure out how to properly brace the parts involved.

 

[MattL600]

18 hours ago, PorkyMonster said:

Hmm... in that case you can try synchronous gearbox... but you'll need more gears, as follows (click image for the lxf file):

Again, this is just a rough guide... you'll have to figure out how to properly brace the parts involved.

 

Why is it that people use the new gearbox pieces and not the old ones? Is it possible for me to build a sequential gearbox with these old parts?

Should i plan to purchase new gearbox pieces?

[PorkyMonster]

26 minutes ago, MattL600 said:

Why is it that people use the new gearbox pieces and not the old ones? Is it possible for me to build a sequential gearbox with these old parts?

Should i plan to purchase new gearbox pieces?

New pieces are 3-stud long, whereas yours is 2-studs - so shifting from one end to the other takes only 1 stud movement, while it'll take 2 studs for the newer ones. I think it all depends on implementation - different methods can make better use of 1 or 2 studs movement.

And yours will be sequential regardless of what you use - only 2 speeds - 1 to 2, 2 to 1, how can it be not sequential??  But if you're thinking of more than 2 speeds, and sequential, these old parts will still work.

I can't advice you on your 3rd qn... really dependent on what you plan to build and your budget... most importantly, there are often many different ways, using different parts, to achieve the same functions...

[MattL600]

13 hours ago, PorkyMonster said:

New pieces are 3-stud long, whereas yours is 2-studs - so shifting from one end to the other takes only 1 stud movement, while it'll take 2 studs for the newer ones. I think it all depends on implementation - different methods can make better use of 1 or 2 studs movement.

And yours will be sequential regardless of what you use - only 2 speeds - 1 to 2, 2 to 1, how can it be not sequential??  But if you're thinking of more than 2 speeds, and sequential, these old parts will still work.

I can't advice you on your 3rd qn... really dependent on what you plan to build and your budget... most importantly, there are often many different ways, using different parts, to achieve the same functions...

Ah okay thanks.

One I edit my half track video I'll post a Wip about the Supercar and we can make real progress :)

[MattL600]

On 12/07/2017 at 6:35 PM, PorkyMonster said:

New pieces are 3-stud long, whereas yours is 2-studs - so shifting from one end to the other takes only 1 stud movement, while it'll take 2 studs for the newer ones. I think it all depends on implementation - different methods can make better use of 1 or 2 studs movement.

And yours will be sequential regardless of what you use - only 2 speeds - 1 to 2, 2 to 1, how can it be not sequential??  But if you're thinking of more than 2 speeds, and sequential, these old parts will still work.

I can't advice you on your 3rd qn... really dependent on what you plan to build and your budget... most importantly, there are often many different ways, using different parts, to achieve the same functions...

I started on it!