4558 amtrak metroliner wheel slip?

[sunhuntin]

I just set up my brothers old set for the first time in a good 12+ years. Was plesantly surprised when it worked as it should, after all that time.

When I run just the lead car and add the middle coach, it goes around the track ok. However, when I add the end car, it slips and wheel spins on the curves unless the speed is way up, and then it derails of course.

Is there a way this can be prevented, either by adding weight to the front or trying to lighten the load? Even adding more straight track to the middle of the radius to make them wider?

Many thanks in advance for suggestions and advice.

[jtlan]

Check the wheels on the train motor. Are the tires worn, cracked, or stiff? If so, you'll want to replace them. I used this part last time, although there appear to be variations even among the original Lego tires.

[sunhuntin]

Thanks. The tyres look brand new to my eyes. The powered wheels dont turn easily, but I wouldn't expect them to, since all the HO scale ones dont move at all without power.

[coaster]

Interestingly, I just dug out my old Metroliner this past weekend and set it up as well in my son's room. I had a similar problem at first with a lot of wheel slippage, as well as conductivity issues, but after letting it run around for a couple dozen laps it improved immensely. Seems like it just needed to be re-broken in a bit.

[Capparezza]

Check the wheels on the train motor. Are the tires worn, cracked, or stiff? If so, you'll want to replace them. I used this part last time, although there appear to be variations even among the original Lego tires.

I can't see how O-rings might help on 9V motors, wouldn't they break electrical contact to the rails?

If the motor has not run for a considerable amount of time, try what coaster suggested. That normally helps.

Edited August 30, 2016 by Capparezza

[sunhuntin]

Thanks, guys. I will set it up again and just let the engine do its thing for a while.

[Dan-147]

When the Santa Fe cars (set 1 & set 2) came out in 2002, there was an issue with the wheels rubbing against the top of the wheel carrier. It created lot of friction which limited the number of cars that could be run. The symptoms were quite simular to what you report. Initially, it was blamed on the heavy(er) weight of the cars compared to usual LEGO train cars but it was later determined to be a mold defect.

If your Metroliner is from the reissued classics (10001) it could have these wheelsets. It could also be dirty or misaligned wheelsets. If you have other wheelsets, you might try substituting them on your cars to see if it makes any difference.

Dan-147

Edited August 30, 2016 by Dan-147

[sunhuntin]

Thanks, Dan. This set is the original 1990's release. I did notice some of the wheels don't spin freely, so will investigate that next. Currently giving it a run with just the middle coach to see if that helps.

EDIT: Just put the end car on. I also adjusted the placement of the wheel set, moving it back by one hole, as I noticed it derailed when put backwards. Ran well for a few laps, then started slipping again. I will borrow a track rubber from my club tomorrow night, and give the tracks a clean too. They don't look too grubby, but theres bound to be something on them.

Edited August 30, 2016 by sunhuntin

[coaster]

I can't see how O-rings might help on 9V motors, wouldn't they break electrical contact to the rails?

The contact is made by the flange. It's a separate pieces from the rest of the wheel and is spring loaded to constantly ride against the inside corner of the rail. There actually are o-rings on the 9V motor wheels, but the groove is so deep they're damn near impossible to remove without destroying.

[sunhuntin]

Is there a need to lubricate the motor on these at all?

It has been running without slipping for at least 45 minutes now, so heres hoping it keeps it up.

[coaster]

If you've ripped your 9V motor apart before, you could throw some lithium grease in there, but honestly, it's really not necessary. And if you haven't, don't.

[Rail Co]

Well just like anything that isn't used for awhile it needs some time to get used to moving again. Model railroaders call this "running in" where you run just the motor or just the locomotive for 30mins forwards and backwards. This should help A LOT!

Good Luck

-RailCo

[sunhuntin]

Thanks, coaster. I won't attempt to open it, but will ask the master repairman at my club.

Rail Co, it was running fine by the time I packed it up. Will make a point of setting it up every few weeks for a while.

[coaster]

I say not to, not because it's terribly difficult, but because the only way to do it involves cutting off the little tabs on the bottom. It does permanently damage the assembly.

[Capparezza]

The contact is made by the flange. It's a separate pieces from the rest of the wheel and is spring loaded to constantly ride against the inside corner of the rail. There actually are o-rings on the 9V motor wheels, but the groove is so deep they're damn near impossible to remove without destroying.

Hmm.... interesting. I have several 9V motors but never noticed any O-rings on those metal wheels. Might take a closer look this evening. Thansk for the info!

Edit: Yeah, funny thing I didn't notice those O-rings... There are indeed some on the 9V motors, had one of those in my hands when I was at my basement yesterday. Thanks again for pointing that out I can't see any way to replace them either, as they are pretty recessedy very small and therefore hard to reach.

Edited September 2, 2016 by Capparezza