Didumos69 Posted August 17, 2016 Posted August 17, 2016 (edited) I'm not a big fan of using non-LEGO parts, but I tried this a few months ago and I thought it's worth sharing. To firmly secure a pin in a pin-hole without making the pin or pin-hole useless after disassembly, you can drive a small set-screw (I used M4x3) into the pin. I used the back-side of a knife to avoid the pin from rotating while driving in the screw. but be careful not to damage that end of the pin. I drove in the screw no further than to make a flat surface with the outer edge of the pin. EDIT: Even though I tried this, I decided not to use it eventually. Let me explain why. For me building Technic constructions is like solving complex puzzles - or at least I like to think of them as complex. If I would arrive at a point where I would need this kind of compromise solution, my conclusion would be there is something wrong with my construction and regard the puzzle as yet unsolved. You could for instance use this to avoid a pin from being pulled out of a pin-hole when a construction is stressed. However, if a construction relies on a pin this way, I tend to think of the construction as being no good. The construction should be such that forces are applied orthogonal - not longitudinal - to the pin-connection. For me the only useful application of this would be to eliminate slack in, or add rigidity to a - already properly designed - construction. Not to fix a poor construction. Edited August 17, 2016 by Didumos69 Quote
syclone Posted August 17, 2016 Posted August 17, 2016 Wow, I am also not a big fan of non-Lego parts(But yes of hacking them) but I like this method, will have to try. Could be very useful for reinforcing the chassis of a car. Do you have images of a pin with the screw inside? Quote
Didumos69 Posted August 17, 2016 Author Posted August 17, 2016 Do you have images of a pin with the screw inside? I have one, added it to the OP. Quote
zweihander Posted August 17, 2016 Posted August 17, 2016 Wouldn't this add stress to the pinhole? Quote
Didumos69 Posted August 17, 2016 Author Posted August 17, 2016 (edited) Wouldn't this add stress to the pinhole? It adds stress to the pin-hole but nothing that causes damage or deformation. Also no temporary deformation while the screw is inside. Btw, I drove in the screw no further than to make a flat surface with the outer edge of the pin. Edited August 17, 2016 by Didumos69 Quote
jorgeopesi Posted August 17, 2016 Posted August 17, 2016 Interesting even being non-Lego parts. Quote
J_C Posted August 17, 2016 Posted August 17, 2016 Heaps of pure LEGO and zero damage options out there. I admit, some of them not suitable for all applications, but just for illustration 15 examples: Quote
Didumos69 Posted August 17, 2016 Author Posted August 17, 2016 (edited) Heaps of pure LEGO and zero damage options out there. I admit, some of them not suitable for all applications, but just for illustration 15 examples: These are of course useful too and I would also prefer using a pure LEGO option if sufficient. My option becomes useful if you don't want to have something sticking out of your pin or want to completely eliminate slack in the pin-pin-hole connection. I've read posts where people wanted to glue parts together or drove real screws in pins. In those cases I think this is a more elegant option. Edited August 17, 2016 by Didumos69 Quote
Didumos69 Posted August 17, 2016 Author Posted August 17, 2016 (edited) Even though I tried this, I decided not to use it eventually. Let me explain why. For me building Technic constructions is like solving complex puzzles - or at least I like to think of them as complex. If I would arrive at a point where I would need this kind of compromise solution, my conclusion would be there is something wrong with my construction and regard the puzzle as yet unsolved. You could for instance use this to avoid a pin from being pulled out of a pin-hole when the construction is stressed. However, if a construction relies on a pin this way, I tend to think of the construction as being no good. The construction should be such that forces are applied orthogonal - not longitudinal - to the pin-connection. For me the only useful application of this would be to eliminate slack in, or add rigidity to a - already properly designed - construction. Not to fix a poor construction. Edited August 17, 2016 by Didumos69 Quote
nerdsforprez Posted August 17, 2016 Posted August 17, 2016 (edited) I have been doing this, or something similar, for quite some time now. I did a whole write up on this issue about a year ago to demonstrate a lesson: we hear so much complaining about the weakness of Lego PF motors, yet, I argue it is mostly the connections between pieces that cause failures in drivelines of Lego Technic models.... not because of weak motors. Not all the time .... but a lot of the time. Whole write up is here: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/422162 http://www.eurobrick...opic=117666&hl= This also somewhat mimics the Minds-i system I have written about many times before. I am super tempted to just buy one of the sets, and do review. They seem so much like Lego....I have contacted them though and they have not been the greatest in getting back to me.... so I am reluctant to make a purchase. Edited August 17, 2016 by nerdsforprez Quote
Didumos69 Posted August 17, 2016 Author Posted August 17, 2016 (edited) I have been doing this, or something similar, for quite some time now. I did a whole write up on this issue about a year ago to demonstrate a lesson: we hear so much complaining about the weakness of Lego PF motors, yet, I argue it is mostly the connections between pieces that cause failures in drivelines of Lego Technic models.... not because of weak motors. Not all the time .... but a lot of the time. Whole write up is here: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/422162 http://www.eurobrick...opic=117666&hl= This also somewhat mimics the Minds-i system I have written about many times before. I am super tempted to just buy one of the sets, and do review. They seem so much like Lego....I have contacted them though and they have not been the greatest in getting back to me.... so I am reluctant to make a purchase. Well, that's a very valid use case! Good to know that PF-failure can - in many cases - be avoided with these kind of tricks. Sadly enough it also shows I'm not the only one this brilliant . Edited August 17, 2016 by Didumos69 Quote
ben20 Posted August 20, 2016 Posted August 20, 2016 You can also buy older pins, they have a bigger inner diameter and more friction Quote
Boxerlego Posted September 20, 2016 Posted September 20, 2016 Interesting Idea. If your using a Taper Set Screw that would certainly secure the Friction Pin in place. Tho there is the potential rare risk that the set screw could split the Lego apart. I know that a M3 Machine Screw slides perfectly inside these new friction pins but you would certainly need to have the nut on the screw to brace the Lego with it. I know that if your trying to believe and do it the purist way, you might run into the scenario when the bar is a little to tight to fit inside the friction pin and your running to a hammer to tap the bar inside the Lego friction pin. Even the Purist way get into the grey area of building sometimes... Quote
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