DW86

[Driftworks]

Unfortunately i couldnt get back to my old account fir some reason. But here i got a quick sneak peak of my driftwotks ae86.replicate the chassis as much as possible with some key futures.

Finally got a rolling chassis still lots to tidy up the chassis. Full rollcage sway bars and airjack. Real build can be find on the net if interested.

Car would be build in 3 stages.

Chassis

Engine/drivetrain

Bodywork

Where almost at the interesting part bare with me......After trying different engine configurations drive train is looking very promising!!! V8 Air engine but no pneumatics that fits perfect

Pics will be up Shortly 

http://http://

 

Edited May 3, 2017 by Driftworks
Update

[piterx]

Looks awesome already

[Aleh]

Nice front wheels turning angle!

[agrof]

Agree, it is already very interesting, love the rear joints and the angles!

How You made the stretch effect on the tires?

Edited June 15, 2016 by agrof

[offroadcreations]

Awesome! Looks really clean. I can't wait to see it finished.

[Driftworks]

Thank you for the positive feed back ive seen alot of everybodies work and got most of my inspiration from this site. input or criticism is welcome!

Agree, it is already very interesting, love the rear joints and the angles!

How You made the stretch effect on the tires?

i had some old grey wheels laying around that i cut in half for snother project end up not using it so kinda used it as a spacer. So for the purist under us might just keep it original wich would work just as fine. Nothing else is modified other then the front shocks

[z3_2drive]

Will it be an LPE powered MOC? Love the way the chassis is put together and I'm eager to see more pics, especially with the wheels off to see the suspension in more detail.

[JJ2]

Looks wonderful

[__________________________]

I see promise.

You seem to have made an actual roll cage sort of design, if you can line up the supports with the actual racing roll cage it would be a very impressive feature!

Battery box placement is very smart, you will have maximum drift this way because the weight is on the rear wheels. This will also increase acceleration since the car is RWD.

I am very interested in learning more about the air suspension mechanism, I don't think I've seen such a compact solution before, and with small pneumatic cylinders, you could get even smaller (not that you need to at this scale).

I am not very knowledgeable about steering, but if you can increase the steering lock, you can increase drifting ability.

You may already know this as well, but make sure your gear ratios / motor selection allows you to make the rear wheels slip.

In real life cars which have very high horsepower, sometimes torque is limited in the first few gears to prevent so-called "torque slip". For drifting, however, torque slip is useful, because it allows you to drift at lower speeds, which is paramount to winning a real-life drifting tournament.

Also, get as much negative camber as you can (up to 5 degrees) in both front and rear, if you are intending this for short autocrossing-style races with friends, and if you are going for larger tracks, use a little bit less negative camber.

Edited June 16, 2016 by TheLegoExpert

[Driftworks]

I see promise.

You seem to have made an actual roll cage sort of design, if you can line up the supports with the actual racing roll cage it would be a very impressive feature!

Battery box placement is very smart, you will have maximum drift this way because the weight is on the rear wheels. This will also increase acceleration since the car is RWD.

I am very interested in learning more about the air suspension mechanism, I don't think I've seen such a compact solution before, and with small pneumatic cylinders, you could get even smaller (not that you need to at this scale).

I am not very knowledgeable about steering, but if you can increase the steering lock, you can increase drifting ability.

You may already know this as well, but make sure your gear ratios / motor selection allows you to make the rear wheels slip.

In real life cars which have very high horsepower, sometimes torque is limited in the first few gears to prevent so-called "torque slip". For drifting, however, torque slip is useful, because it allows you to drift at lower speeds, which is paramount to winning a real-life drifting tournament.

Also, get as much negative camber as you can (up to 5 degrees) in both front and rear, if you are intending this for short autocrossing-style races with friends, and if you are going for larger tracks, use a little bit less negative camber.

The roll cage is completely copied and intergrated with the chassis

Battery box is where original fuel cell is located

I will post some more pictures without the wheels so it becomes more clear. I do not use full ramge of damper simple reason i wanted it to be low as possible probaply need some rweeking after studded body work. Reason i do not use the small ones they look quite fragile over the ss ones

Unfortunately thats how much lock you can get without rubbing wich is still quite impressive

Im still building the solid axle hope to implement a small locking mechanism

The model is more a scale build loaded with realistic details etc. There is quite a few pictures of the real build most i copied with the knowledge from here

Edited June 16, 2016 by Driftworks

[filsawgood]

cool shapes!

[SevenStuds]

Love the angles you get with those suspension arms. Just wish TLG made them in black.

Do you have any plans to make any of your MOCs drift?

[PorkyMonster]

I'm currently learning to use LDD, and nearly fainted when i see that your chassis consist of such a complex web of axles and joints :laugh:

Do you use LDD in any stage of your model creation?

[__________________________]

The roll cage is completely copied and intergrated with the chassis

Battery box is where original fuel cell is located

I will post some more pictures without the wheels so it becomes more clear. I do not use full ramge of damper simple reason i wanted it to be low as possible probaply need some rweeking after studded body work. Reason i do not use the small ones they look quite fragile over the ss ones

Unfortunately thats how much lock you can get without rubbing wich is still quite impressive

Im still building the solid axle hope to implement a small locking mechanism

The model is more a scale build loaded with realistic details etc. There is quite a few pictures of the real build most i copied with the knowledge from here

Yes it will still expirimenting with the lego cylinders..Lpe engines are even to big for this and thought this thing was big lol

What is locking mechanism you speak of?

Fuel cell location is very ingenious.

The roll cage is completely copied and intergrated with the chassis

Battery box is where original fuel cell is located

I will post some more pictures without the wheels so it becomes more clear. I do not use full ramge of damper simple reason i wanted it to be low as possible probaply need some rweeking after studded body work. Reason i do not use the small ones they look quite fragile over the ss ones

Unfortunately thats how much lock you can get without rubbing wich is still quite impressive

Im still building the solid axle hope to implement a small locking mechanism

The model is more a scale build loaded with realistic details etc. There is quite a few pictures of the real build most i copied with the knowledge from here

Yes it will still expirimenting with the lego cylinders..Lpe engines are even to big for this and thought this thing was big lol

What is locking mechanism you speak of?

Fuel cell location is very ingenious.

The roll cage is completely copied and intergrated with the chassis

Battery box is where original fuel cell is located

I will post some more pictures without the wheels so it becomes more clear. I do not use full ramge of damper simple reason i wanted it to be low as possible probaply need some rweeking after studded body work. Reason i do not use the small ones they look quite fragile over the ss ones

Unfortunately thats how much lock you can get without rubbing wich is still quite impressive

Im still building the solid axle hope to implement a small locking mechanism

The model is more a scale build loaded with realistic details etc. There is quite a few pictures of the real build most i copied with the knowledge from here

Yes it will still expirimenting with the lego cylinders..Lpe engines are even to big for this and thought this thing was big lol

What is locking mechanism you speak of?

Fuel cell location is very ingenious.

[agrof]

To the battery box: it is indeed smooth integrated, but if You want to make the car driftable, than the rear driven axle must be free of weight - due to the friction.

Position the most weight on the front axle.

[__________________________]

To the battery box: it is indeed smooth integrated, but if You want to make the car driftable, than the rear driven axle must be free of weight - due to the friction.

Position the most weight on the front axle.

So what is ideal weight distribution for drifting vehicle? Is it RWD with front-heavy car?

[Driftworks]

Love the angles you get with those suspension arms. Just wish TLG made them in black.

Do you have any plans to make any of your MOCs drift?

Thanks! I wanted go away from the standard building techniques quite the hassle to get them how i wanted them without "bending" the rules to much. I must agree they should be made in black!!

[agrof]

You are correct unfortunately i fo t see this thing with current wheels. The original car has a weight distrubition of 50 on every corner!!!

Right, the question is, which direction You choose. Make a scale model, or to bring it "alive" in Lego version. In second case it is necessary to use the weight distribution trick, and probably some duckttape on the tires.

Whatever decision You will make, I will still like this project.

Fingers crossed for smooth and orange bodywork!

Edited June 16, 2016 by agrof

[__________________________]

Right, the question is, which direction You choose. Make a scale model, or to bring it "alive" in Lego version. In second case it is necessary to use the weight distribution trick, and probably some duckttape on the tires.

Whatever decision You will make, I will still like this project.

Fingers crossed for smooth and orange bodywork!

What is difference?

[rm8]

Cool build! Glad to see someone else building Toyota's

Try power puller rims at rear axle. You can strecth tires much more

Looking forward to your project!

p.s.

you can check my failed AE86 in smaller scale.

But my failed project does mot ,mean dead

Edited June 16, 2016 by rm8

[Driftworks]

Right, the question is, which direction You choose. Make a scale model, or to bring it "alive" in Lego version. In second case it is necessary to use the weight distribution trick, and probably some duckttape on the tires.

Whatever decision You will make, I will still like this project.

Fingers crossed for smooth and orange bodywork!

Exactly much appriciated for your input!! The ductape idea is probably the way to go. Im still looking for an lpe with a simple transmission

that can handle it. I chose this car cause the lines are quite square compared with modern day cars would make it alot easier to replicate in lego

Cool build! Glad to see someone else building Toyota's

Try power puller rims at rear axle. You can strecth tires much more thanks!!

Looking forward to your project!

p.s.

you can check my failed AE86 in smaller scale.

But my failed project does mot ,eamn dead

Unfortunately i dont have these wheels but thinkinh of getting those for the purists!! I think it looks quite well for the size I instantly recognized the ae86 Edited June 16, 2016 by Driftworks

[agrof]

What is difference?

The difference is, if it will "only" roll, or drift really.

[mnpumar]

Interesting work, looks pretty close to the real thing

[Driftworks]

Update:

Decided on a lpe v4 small block i got some dimensions also a one way clutch anf f-n-r.

Overall some good progress. Some images

Edited June 25, 2016 by Driftworks

[__________________________]

Looks very nice! It seems however that you could add more pneumatic cylinders up front for power.

However, how will you be powering this model, surely you do not intend for it to be a static model? Yet it is difficult to drive LPE?