nerdsforprez Posted June 4, 2016 Posted June 4, 2016 Lift Arms. Yea... I should be more careful..... too easy to interchange the two..... Quote
1974 Posted June 4, 2016 Posted June 4, 2016 Pretty sure Linear Actuators longer than 15L will be apriciated also It's not that hard to break a 15L liftarm or a 2x16 plate or just about any brick, so I think that argument is void. I can clearly see a use for much longer liftarms (like for that recent blue crawler crane) The 32L axle is kinda useless as it twists too much compared to one made up of a few axles+axles joiners. They are great for making minfig scale elevators though Quote
dr_spock Posted June 4, 2016 Posted June 4, 2016 Can I has one or two of those micromotors? Please? Pretty Please? Anyway, I don't see Lego doing thin liftarms longer than the existing ones, you might actually be able to break them at longer lengths. And, they're not like plates. But, somebody did indeed make some custom connecting rods, as seen in this topic:http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=74662. Also, Dr_Spock, you could always ask Efferman if he could whip you up something, if none of those ones fit your needs. Thank you for the information. I am going to try the DIY first and figure out how to modify the STL file. If I buy custom or ask Efferman, then I don't learn anything. Good to have a backup if plan A doesn't work out. Quote
BusterHaus Posted June 4, 2016 Posted June 4, 2016 To the Op - check out this shop: http://www.bricklink.com/store.asp?p=Eezo Liftarms as long as 32L - not ABS mind you, aluminum. Expensive yes,.... but strong? even yessier...... These are not expensive at all. They are most likely made in China, or somewhere else where labor costs are very minimal. North American machine shops have an hourly rate of $50 to $80 (for this type of part), or you can approximate it to $1 per minute. Parts that cost $5 must be made in less than 5 minutes. This is not possible without losing precision or sacrificing the surface finish. But it's possible to machine them for less than $5 if your labor rate is much lower. Quote
dr_spock Posted June 15, 2016 Posted June 15, 2016 I could find 1x16 half width (thin) on BL. I need 1x13. I found a 1x13 STL file on Thingiverse. I have to figure what easy software can edit it down to a half width. I managed to dice and slice a 13L liftarm STL file into half width with 123D Design and MeshMixer. That was some difficult learning curve. Anyone have tips on 3D printing liftarms? What to watch out for? Quote
efferman Posted June 15, 2016 Posted June 15, 2016 watch on the dimensions and the print directions. on a liftarm the holes should placed flat on the surface to avoid oval holes. Quote
TheMindGarage Posted June 15, 2016 Posted June 15, 2016 Would be nice to have 2.5L, 3.5L, 4.5L etc axles That could be pretty useful. I often want half-stud axles for various reasons, such as building gearboxes with the old driving ring type that are offset by 0.5 studs to get the changeover catch placed on a whole stud. It gets annoying to have to either use whole studs or those 5.5 stud axles with a stop 1 stud from the end. Quote
Moz Posted June 16, 2016 Posted June 16, 2016 Would be nice to have 2.5L, 3.5L, 4.5L etc axles Yes, but it's much easier to cut half a stud worth off the end of an axle than to join beams together. I've done that just to get black axles in whole number lengths cheaper than I can buy them, and I suspect that's going to become even more necessary now that colour vomit has infected axles. Quote
dr_spock Posted June 16, 2016 Posted June 16, 2016 watch on the dimensions and the print directions. on a liftarm the holes should placed flat on the surface to avoid oval holes. Thank you very much. Oval holes wouldn't work very well. Quote
1974 Posted June 16, 2016 Posted June 16, 2016 Yes, but it's much easier to cut half a stud worth off the end of an axle than to join beams together. I've done that just to get black axles in whole number lengths cheaper than I can buy them, and I suspect that's going to become even more necessary now that colour vomit has infected axles. Cutting leads to the dark side No colour vomit here, ALL my axles are BLACK in 2L, 3L, 4L, 5L, 6L, 8L, 10L, 12L, 16L & 32L (allthough I have a number of non-production axles in blue, green, brown, yellow and red) I wouldn't mind 2,5L etc IF they came in black, but I always seem to work around that problem anyway (which mostly seem to happen when I use standard engine blocks) Cheers, Ole Quote
dr_spock Posted June 24, 2016 Posted June 24, 2016 Earlier in the week, I sent my STL file to my local public library which offers 3D printing. The job was ready for pickup today. It costed me around $2 CAD to print 4 of the 13L half-width beams. They were printed with the holes laid flat per Efferman's advice. They feel pretty rough.They need cleanup and polishing. A 7L LEGO injection molded half beam for comparison, LEGO wins in quality. Quote
oracid Posted June 25, 2016 Posted June 25, 2016 I managed to dice and slice a 13L liftarm STL file into half width with 123D Design and MeshMixer. That was some difficult learning curve. Anyone have tips on 3D printing liftarms? What to watch out for? I hope to receive my 3D printer today. I am very interested about your 123D Design file. I made my own file with 123D Design, but I would like to compare your sizes. Quote
doug72 Posted June 25, 2016 Author Posted June 25, 2016 These thin lift arms would be great for building lattice structures such as crane jibs, towers and bridges Thin "K" & " T" connectors would make for a versitile building system for these type of MOCS. Probably would need a new connector pin. 3/4 - with stop - 1/4 (I think Efferman has one in his 3D parts) Doug Quote
MarcoUbtz Posted June 25, 2016 Posted June 25, 2016 I hope to receive my 3D printer today. I am very interested about your 123D Design file. I made my own file with 123D Design, but I would like to compare your sizes. This are the measurements which I use --> Step1 by Marco Uaz, su Flickr Quote
oracid Posted June 25, 2016 Posted June 25, 2016 This are the measurements which I use --> Thank you MarcoUbtz, I know this measurements, but do them work good and with what kind of 3D printer and material. My 3D printer will be this one, which is the most popular this days in France, http://www.dagoma.fr/produit/imprimante-discovery200/ My material will be PLA. http://www.dagoma.fr/categorie-produit/fil/polymaker/polymax-pla/ @admin, may be a thread about 3D printing should be necessary. Quote
MarcoUbtz Posted June 25, 2016 Posted June 25, 2016 Thank you MarcoUbtz, I know this measurements, but do them work good and with what kind of 3D printer and material. My 3D printer will be this one, which is the most popular this days in France, http://www.dagoma.fr...e-discovery200/ My material will be PLA. http://www.dagoma.fr...er/polymax-pla/ @admin, may be a thread about 3D printing should be necessary. Ok, so, first of all, have you experience with 3d printing and software (like cura, mattercontrol or simplify) ? I don't know that printer, but I can give you some tips and tricks for the FDM printers in general. Some example of 3d printed parts with FDM process and PLA DSC00513 by Marco Uaz, su Flickr DSC00514 by Marco Uaz, su Flickr DSC00515 by Marco Uaz, su Flickr Quote
oracid Posted June 25, 2016 Posted June 25, 2016 Ok, so, first of all, have you experience with 3d printing and software (like cura, mattercontrol or simplify) ? I don't know that printer, but I can give you some tips and tricks for the FDM printers in general. Thank you for your help. Indeed, I have no experience at all. Your work looks very good. If you don't mind I will show you my work when I will receive my 3D printer. But I wonder if this thread is the good one for that. Sorry Doug72. Quote
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