Royalty

[ShrikeArghast]

Like the majority of people, when you strip away the the nuances and complexities of my character, my motivations are pretty base. And for a while now, I've been wanting to create a model that would be regarded as the "definitive" version of that locomotive (and since I consider this to be the definitive version of the North American Hudson, its a doubly appropriate goal to pursue). After 10+ hours of labor, I'd like to think I've achieved that here.

Proto video(s):

Proto photos:

Model:

Some caveats:

- No, the drivers are not functional - they're placeholders for BB wheels (in fact, funnily enough, the current ones are actually a bit too big), which the locomotive was designed around accepting. Because of that, I've kept the frame exceedingly minimalist to make swapping in new wheels easier.

- And, obviously, because the drivers aren't permanent, the valve-gear is also totally static. In fact, I just included a very basic design to give some idea of what it would look like - were I to construct the model, I would naturally incorporate something more elaborate.

- The locomotive was intended to have a 184mm white rubber cable wrap around the front of the boiler to give it the prototypical 'smiling face,' but the flex tool in LDD is abominable, so while it would certainly feature this IRL, I can't make it happen digitally.

- It isn't powered, although given how chunky an engine this is, I don't anticipate adding power functions would be that terrible.

- A few stickers would go a long way here.

Edited May 28, 2016 by ShrikeArghast

[Rotundus]

Beautiful prototype, even in black & white. Nice work on the rendered model. BBB drivers will look excellent on this. Good sense of scale vs. detail for 8-wide. It sound as though you intend to build this in brick form... Good luck. I can't wait to see the brick version.

Edited May 28, 2016 by Rotundus

[ShrikeArghast]

Beautiful prototype, even in black & white. Nice work on the rendered model. BBB drivers will look excellent on this. Good sense of scale vs. detail for 8-wide. It sound as though you intend to build this in brick form... Good luck. I can't wait to see the brick version.

Thanks.

As for building it, I think I'd like to construct a narrow gauge loco first, since they're my bread-and-butter. The other consideration is sheer price. My most recent 3' engine is just under 600 pieces total - a very nice part economy. The Royal Hudson, on the other hand, is over 1,300 pieces. That, in my experience, is a $250 Bricklink project without breaking a sweat - probably closer to $350 when you include BB wheels and power/battery pack options.

Here's a size comparison:

Obviously, the Hudson is a beast.

I really wish there was a way to simulate the dimensions of the largest BB wheels in LDD. That way I could develop a functional running gear, and have a complete parts list should I decide (and acquire the funds) to move forward in building this loco.

Also, unstreamlined version, but still epic:

- Anyone who hasn't seen this movie should make an effort to do so. It actually moved me to tears in-theater, it was so superbly done: Edited May 28, 2016 by ShrikeArghast

[LEGO Train 12 Volts]

You should realize this locomotive in real lego! :wub:

[ShrikeArghast]

If I were to incorporate power functions, what would be the best way to go? Battery pack in the tender with motor under the smoke box? Battery + motor both in the tender? Or is 9v still popular enough to justify just powering a single tender truck (even if I have to go with a 4 wheel version, though it would not be prototypical)?

I have a pretty much pristine 9v train set boxed at my parents' house, so I do possess the power pack and some tracks, but I understand Lego is doing everything possible to discourage that route these days. Are most clubs/pro builders defaulting to battery now?

[CrispyBassist]

Loos great! As for the motorizing questions:

I've turned to using the PF train motors in most of my builds, after failed attempts at using M and XL motors due to problems with gearing and/or my inability to properly build Technic trucks. The train motor seems to have the best speed and pulling power (in my experience) and I've even had success powering large Lego drivers with them (my EP-3 and EF-1).

Ive also previously had trouble powering BBB wheels, as there's no friction ring on them. I've seen other builders use o rings from their local hardware store, but that involves turning a groove for them in the BBB wheels which I don't have the tools to do.

As for 9v vs. PF, I'd recommend PF because it doesnt limit where you can run the train: PF can run on 9v track but not vice versa.

To sum up, I'd recommend PF train motors in the tender. You can still get quite a bit of detail with custom built side frames, and potentially even simulate a third axle.

Hope this helps!

[Rail Co]

Overall Great Model! Also if that is the vintage giant camera used with the red piping you have one me right there!

Great Job

-RailCo

[Mike S]

Nice looking prototype! You don't happen to have a flickr account as I'd like to fave it there so I can come back take inspiration from it in the future.

[ShrikeArghast]

Nice looking prototype! You don't happen to have a flickr account as I'd like to fave it there so I can come back take inspiration from it in the future.

Just created one: https://www.flickr.com/photos/143513928@N06/albums Boy is Flickr un-intuitive! No wonder Yahoo is going under.

Overall Great Model! Also if that is the vintage giant camera used with the red piping you have one me right there!

Great Job

-RailCo

That is what it is :).

Loos great! As for the motorizing questions:

I've turned to using the PF train motors in most of my builds, after failed attempts at using M and XL motors due to problems with gearing and/or my inability to properly build Technic trucks. The train motor seems to have the best speed and pulling power (in my experience) and I've even had success powering large Lego drivers with them (my EP-3 and EF-1).

Ive also previously had trouble powering BBB wheels, as there's no friction ring on them. I've seen other builders use o rings from their local hardware store, but that involves turning a groove for them in the BBB wheels which I don't have the tools to do.

As for 9v vs. PF, I'd recommend PF because it doesnt limit where you can run the train: PF can run on 9v track but not vice versa.

To sum up, I'd recommend PF train motors in the tender. You can still get quite a bit of detail with custom built side frames, and potentially even simulate a third axle.

Hope this helps!

I may try fiddling with it again tonight and see if I can incorporate a PF truck. You wouldn't happen to have any photos of one modified to include a third axle/wheel set, would you?

[CrispyBassist]

I don't, I've never needed one for my MOCs. I'd guess a 2x2 dish attached to the side frame or the motor would simulate one nicely though.

[ShrikeArghast]

Here's what I came up with. It's not perfect, but nothing using that truck was going to be. There is a receiver as well as a battery pack (the latter is easily accessible; you can see the top of the receiver just forward of the headlight) crammed in there as well.

Now, if I could just work out the mystery of how to assemble valve gear without being able to see drivers in LDD, I'd be all set.

Edited May 29, 2016 by ShrikeArghast

[wout1988]

It looks great!

[zephyr1934]

Excellent capture of the essence of the Hudsons in such a small model!

Now, if I could just work out the mystery of how to assemble valve gear without being able to see drivers in LDD, I'd be all set.

You might be best just building that up by hand. Often digital designs that look like they should work will get hung up in curves, switches, etc. and physical stuff that looks like it shouldn't work turns out to.

[ShrikeArghast]

I went and rebuilt practically the entire thing - the boiler has been completely retooled internally and shortened by one stud (which was a LOT of work); the trailing truck was reconstructed from the wheels up (I shortened it, too), the axle locations and underframe were prepped for BB wheels and Zephyr's rods, respectively. I may revisit the exterior of the tender in a little bit, but overall it's feeling ready to build, to me.

Edited May 30, 2016 by ShrikeArghast

[ShrikeArghast]

And one more change... I expanded the cab by one stud, crowding the boiler forwards just a bit. I think this is closer to the prototype:

Edited May 30, 2016 by ShrikeArghast

[zephyr1934]

The dark red stripe below the runningboards turned black in the revision, was that by design?

[ShrikeArghast]

The dark red stripe below the runningboards turned black in the revision, was that by design?

The piping is black on the real loco... as for the running boards, I went black on those because I was going to slap a sticker on them regardless.

[zephyr1934]

Ah, okay, that makes total sense. Dark red would be best if you were not planning on using any stickers, but definitely better with black under stickers to get the right shape. It is one of the characteristic features of this engine.

[ShrikeArghast]

Ah, okay, that makes total sense. Dark red would be best if you were not planning on using any stickers, but definitely better with black under stickers to get the right shape. It is one of the characteristic features of this engine.

Yup. When the time comes... probably this Christmas, I'll be turning to you for driving rods :D. I much admire your product.

[ALCO]

First of all,

ShrikeArghast, the majority of my builds are done in LDD since I don't have the space or bricks for building yet. This is beautiful! And when you do build it, it will be amazing I'm sure. I've got quite a few that I have built and posted to flickr all with the intention of building them for real some day. Actually, I have just finished a couple more that I am getting ready to post sto keep your eye out. I think I'll make a tread here for those too.

Loos great! As for the motorizing questions:

I've turned to using the PF train motors in most of my builds, after failed attempts at using M and XL motors due to problems with gearing and/or my inability to properly build Technic trucks. The train motor seems to have the best speed and pulling power (in my experience) and I've even had success powering large Lego drivers with them (my EP-3 and EF-1).

Ive also previously had trouble powering BBB wheels, as there's no friction ring on them. I've seen other builders use o rings from their local hardware store, but that involves turning a groove for them in the BBB wheels which I don't have the tools to do.

As for 9v vs. PF, I'd recommend PF because it doesnt limit where you can run the train: PF can run on 9v track but not vice versa.

To sum up, I'd recommend PF train motors in the tender. You can still get quite a bit of detail with custom built side frames, and potentially even simulate a third axle.

Hope this helps!

This actually helps me a lot! Most of mine are designed around XL or L PF motors but since reading your comment, I'm starting to re-think and re-engineer some of my builds because...well, lets face it, it could very well be much easier!

[CrispyBassist]

Just to clarify, I wasn't trying to say never use XL, L, or M motors, but when I an i use the train motor. I still have a few builds that use XL motors because train motors don't fit my desired aesthetic standards, but when I can I prefer to use train motors.