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Posted (edited)

Hello all! Yes you are right - it's the Icebreaker. And it has remote control. And it's working :)

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It was my first icebreaking experience so the model isn't too effective. But now I know that it's real and I know how the model can be improved. Propulsion - 2xXL, rudder - 1x9V motor, dimensions: 75x15x33 cm, total weight with batteries and stabilizer – 2480 g. I used RC-unit for comfortable out-door control.

Arctic photos:

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Photos: https://flickr.com/photos/141718063@N06/albums/72157667087292713

I hope you like it! It was really funny!

Edited by desert752
Posted

Desert,

nice! How did you distributed the weight? That counterweight under the water is sufficent to make the ship stable? What is the weight of counterweight?

Max

Thanks! Yes - that counterweight is the only one thing that makes it stable. There are four 6x2x2 weight bricks here - it's approximately 200 g.

Posted

Thanks! Yes - that counterweight is the only one thing that makes it stable. There are four 6x2x2 weight bricks here - it's approximately 200 g.

i just recently bought these 50g weight bricks to build 8288...they are quite fascinating!

i had never seen them before, and they are indeed pretty heavy!....i hear what i think is a block of metal moving about inside the lego exterior.

Posted

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How about a boat keel?

I had a few of these as a kid, they worked great at keeping those old narrow hulls right-side-up.

Do the new hulls not have antistuds on the bottom?

I haven't this keel. And yes - there are no antistuds on my hull. It's interesting - if this keel can be attached to the old hull by studs - is it reliable? How about self-disconnecting?

Posted (edited)

I haven't this keel. And yes - there are no antistuds on my hull. It's interesting - if this keel can be attached to the old hull by studs - is it reliable? How about self-disconnecting?

Yes, those keels fell off if you were not careful. The double-height studs grip much better than normal studs, but tend to split normal bricks, so really only work on the bottom of boat hulls.

I would not want to use one in "real water" because they would be hard to find when they fell off. If your boat hit plants or any other obstacle it would probably be the weight that hit.

Edited by Moz
Posted

I never had any issues with my keels falling off, but as a 6-year-old playing with LEGO boats in the bathtub, I was more concerned with tidal waves and whatnot. :grin:

I was as much asking to find out if the new hulls had any connection points below the waterline like the old ones did. Shame that they didn't keep that bit of functionality.

Posted

Very cool and unusual work that it's stay on the water. Since this is not the final version, let me give some advice - now that it is, above all, the ship, and the detail on this scale should be appropriate for the type of yours Arctic Equalizer. But here everything is above the water line looks good, but from afar. Near it is just cubes and parallelepipeds. Keep up the good work!

Posted

How do you make Lego ships water tight?

I use Lego watertight hull from the 7994 set.

Very cool and unusual work that it's stay on the water. Since this is not the final version, let me give some advice - now that it is, above all, the ship, and the detail on this scale should be appropriate for the type of yours Arctic Equalizer. But here everything is above the water line looks good, but from afar. Near it is just cubes and parallelepipeds. Keep up the good work!

Thanks! I think the next version will be very futuristic.

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