[MOC - WIP] Birmingham Catherdral (Architecture)

[Covenant84]

Hi all,

Having seen Durham Cathedral's Lego project I'd like to have a go at building Birmingham Cathedral, first in the Lego Architecture style, and then maybe bigger.

Here's a google image search: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=birmingham+cathedral&biw=1164&bih=845&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAmoVChMIlIyp4OnkxwIVQznbCh2NxQu1#imgrc=fTgqBABQtxbheM%3A

Questions:

1) What colour brick would be best and have a good range of parts? I'm torn between light grey and tan. A lot of images are nearer to tan but in person the building is more grey (I've heard a few people describe it as white) - see the range of images to see what I mean.

2) Any ideas for building the rounded end? The windows here re also stained glass (the rest aren't).

Please feel free to post links to useful parts you know of

I'll update this with my progress.

[henrysunset]

When building LEGO Architecture, you need to accept rather than fight the limited color palette of LEGO bricks. For me, and for many other LEGO architecture builders, the limited color palettes and limited shapes and types of bricks is part of what makes it fun - you need to improvise and be creative to capture not the literal building, but it's essence.

In researching my book, I loved learning more about Postmodern architecture, because it was in that period (1980's) that real architects building real buildings paused and tried something different from Modernism which had grown a bit repetitive. Postmodern architects,much like LEGO architecture enthusiasts got to pick and choose the details of traditional architecture that they wanted to keep, and the ones they wanted to abandon. (drawing inspiration mostly from Greek and Roman inspired Neoclassicism.) It is for this reason that the process of creating a LEGO model of a classical design can take on a bit of a postmodern look.

As for your original question, I would say that your goal is to capture the essence of the building the best you can. To my eye, tan is the best match, as the stone has that hue. For the roof, you could use Sand Green to mimic copper. You could also mix colors as in this model.

Sincerely,

Tom Alphin

P.S. I talk a lot about the challenges of working within the LEGO palette, and the limited selection of LEGO elements in the last chapter of my upcoming book, The LEGO Architect. It covers lots of different Architectural styles, too, so check it out. (The book comes out the 25th of this month!)

[BrickOn]

Looks tan like tan to me, although all the pics are taken on sunny days... Maybe it's just the grey weather that clouds your judgement in person? :-p

[DanSto]

Tan seems clearly to be the best choice, not because it is the most accurate, but because it correspond more to the period where the cathedral has been build (gray is for concrete). For the roof, you will have to take care of the availibility of the parts before choosing the colour : maybe light bluish gray. For the MOC, I think you should start with the roof because this will fix the size of the whole model. For the "round" end, at this scale, à 45 degrees section could be enough. I had the same concern with Notre Dame de Paris ( http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=113137 ) where you can probably find some ideas for your build.

[Covenant84]

Thanks all!

Henrysunset - Thanks for that - You've popped me a link to the book before (on my Newman thread - now on hold due to costs and job move but I may return to it one day.)

DanSto - thanks for your thought - I've already been admiring your Notre Dame -its stunning and instantly recognisable!

Edit: is there a 'set' scale or architecture 'sets' or just as small as possible?

Edited September 9, 2015 by Covenant84

[Covenant84]

Hi all,

I've stated to play around in LDD. I'm trying to make the windows as they are quite central to the look, however I'm stuck with the tops - any ideas welcome? The arch brick seems to be the right proportion but I'm not sure how to 'glaze' the rounded bit (cheese sloes don't fit.) Is there a solution or should I change scale?

[alois]

Hi all,

I've stated to play around in LDD. I'm trying to make the windows as they are quite central to the look, however I'm stuck with the tops - any ideas welcome? The arch brick seems to be the right proportion but I'm not sure how to 'glaze' the rounded bit (cheese sloes don't fit.) Is there a solution or should I change scale?

Make the glass of a pile of trans clear 1x2 bricks. Place them on jumper plates 1/2 stud back with respect to the arch. The upper brick should be a 1x2x1 trans clear panel.

[Covenant84]

Make the glass of a pile of trans clear 1x2 bricks. Place them on jumper plates 1/2 stud back with respect to the arch. The upper brick should be a 1x2x1 trans clear panel.

Hi - thanks but what's a 'panel' please... lol. Is it the seat shaped things?

[Covenant84]

Right, made some progress - pretty happy with the side walls, although there is a little inaccuracy and a slight misalignment, but I think it capture the look pretty well. Was thinking of using the 1x2 'grid' pieces along the top held by clips to represent the fence along the roof... However... I'm wondering if I need to pretty much start again....

Walls from rear:

Walls from front:

2 issues:

1) Because of the way I've built the walls I can't recess the end details into them

2) Can't work out how to fit on the 'rounded' end - I was hoping to use hinges to put straight walls at 45degree angle but there doesn't seem to be room at the same size as the side walls. Am I out with my proportions?

Look forward to your thoughts....

[Covenant84]

Hi all,

Made some progress. I've redesigned the front end. It means that the vertical columns aren't included there but I can't think of another way -I feel it's still recognisable. haven't thought about the roof there yet....... The rear doors had some slight changes made to the front, I think they look a bit better so hopefully i'll building them this way on he real one.

Next problem - things seemed to be going smoothly at the rear, until I worked out the width I 11 1/2 studs.... I assume because of the hinges at the other end. Any ideas? I guess on the real model I could fudge the angles at the rounded end to compensate or use headlights bricks to make a side connection but I think that would be too weak. Also a concern is the 1X8 'columns' down the sides - they're attached by a single stud... the geometry won't allow for more than one stud connection. I did try to redesign by that caused other problems elsewhere. If you see parts that aren't available please let me know.