N-4K0 Posted June 19, 2015 Posted June 19, 2015 (edited) I couldn't find any topic related to my question, so I'll make this and let the moderators decide what to do with it. I'm dealing with an undercarriage with tracks, modified version from the 42006, and I keep getting problems with the length vs. track link dimension. Does anyone know how many studs there needs to be between the large sprocket wheels for the tracks to fit well without getting too loose? I'm looking at a dimension of around 15 studs in between the axles holding the sprocket wheels, and I either have to make it more than 15 studs apart or have the tracks be too loose. Any help is appreciated! Edited June 19, 2015 by Error404 Quote
TheNextLegoDesinger Posted June 19, 2015 Posted June 19, 2015 post a pic because a pic says more than a 1000 words Quote
N-4K0 Posted June 19, 2015 Author Posted June 19, 2015 That is true. Well, I've read how to proceed via an image hosting site to upload pics here, but I haven't tried that yet. Either way, I eventually managed to find a solution and get a working track without too much slack, though, a satisfying solution for the time being. I think I'll leave it at that. Sorry for bothering you to reply I may have gone ahead of thinking when I made this topic, so any admin or mod may close it if they like. I would like to find out more about "proper" tracks for tracked machines, though, if anyone would have something to add. Quote
dr_spock Posted June 19, 2015 Posted June 19, 2015 For the 8043 excavator, it is around 22 studs between the centers of the sprockets. I was testing something before and did it with 19 studs between centers. Not sure how long you want your tracks to be. You could also use shock absorber to add tension idler to remove slack. Happy experimenting. Quote
Milan Posted June 19, 2015 Posted June 19, 2015 I am not sure what exactly you want. But if the problem is that you want precise X length of the tracks, and your sprockets are making too long/short base, then, as suggested, use shock absorber. It works great, even for heavy vehicles. Example for front self adjustable sprockets. Quote
BachAddict Posted June 19, 2015 Posted June 19, 2015 If there's just a bit of slack, take it up with rollers lifting the top track like in official sets. Quote
Bricktrain Posted June 19, 2015 Posted June 19, 2015 I had a problem recently when I changed from dark bluish grey tracks to black, the tracks were different lengths for the same number of parts, I ended up having to change the sprocket spacing by half a hole. Quote
Blakbird Posted June 19, 2015 Posted June 19, 2015 I had a problem recently when I changed from dark bluish grey tracks to black, the tracks were different lengths for the same number of parts, I ended up having to change the sprocket spacing by half a hole. There is no difference in the mold between black and gray tracks, but some older tracks (regardless of color) did use a different mold. The overall length is the same, but the maximum bend angle is different. Quote
Bricktrain Posted June 19, 2015 Posted June 19, 2015 There is no difference in the mold between black and gray tracks, but some older tracks (regardless of color) did use a different mold. The overall length is the same, but the maximum bend angle is different. Overall length was not the same, the parts were identical molds but length for 60 pieces was considerably different, I didnt rebuild a model just for the sake of it. ;-) Quote
MaxSupercars Posted June 19, 2015 Posted June 19, 2015 (edited) They are not the same size ??? Hmm... Max... Edited June 19, 2015 by MaxSupercars Quote
Bricktrain Posted June 19, 2015 Posted June 19, 2015 The mold might not be the same for my DBG, but the black and Dark brown tracks are definitely shorter, over 60 pieces the length is 1/2 asection shorter. Quote
Bricktrain Posted June 20, 2015 Posted June 20, 2015 (edited) Edited June 20, 2015 by Bricktrain Quote
DrJB Posted June 20, 2015 Posted June 20, 2015 The mold might not be the same for my DBG, but the black and Dark brown tracks are definitely shorter, over 60 pieces the length is 1/2 asection shorter. This is interesting. Are you sure this is not due to different 'clearance' between snapping parts? Have you tried pushing the gap to extremes i.e., fully compressed, and then fully stretched? Quote
MaxSupercars Posted June 20, 2015 Posted June 20, 2015 Hmm... I don't understand why would Lego do this... hmm... :/ Max... Quote
laggyluk Posted June 20, 2015 Posted June 20, 2015 tou can put a roller with 'soft' spring suspension there to give it some more tension Quote
N-4K0 Posted June 20, 2015 Author Posted June 20, 2015 (edited) Thanks for the replies, some good tips here Edited June 20, 2015 by Error404 Quote
Boulderer Posted June 20, 2015 Posted June 20, 2015 Rather than different moulds, this may have something to do with differing shrinkage factors. There may be different polymer blends required to get the various colours. Quote
Phoxtane Posted June 20, 2015 Posted June 20, 2015 The problems I have with the tracks is that the bars on the underside of the track links tend to get stuck into the slots on the small sprockets, for whatever reason. This causes the track to bind up and pop off in the same instant, causing it to jump around and making a horrible clicking sound - if it doesn't just lock up the tracks entirely. I suspect this is due to the the different mold types. I do have a small file that I could use to open up the slots on the sprockets slightly if I decide to use those ever again... Quote
Bricktrain Posted June 21, 2015 Posted June 21, 2015 Rather than different moulds, this may have something to do with differing shrinkage factors. There may be different polymer blends required to get the various colours. That was my suspicion, there was a mention somewhere that sometimes there are different molds for different colours, wasnt sure if it was true though. Quote
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