Sariel Posted April 2, 2015 Posted April 2, 2015 Hamster jokes aside, here's a really good stuff. My initial sequential gearbox design had two problems: plenty of friction at two top gears and being kinda tall. But no longer - this version is smaller, stronger and it has so little friction, a single PF M motor easily runs it on 4th gear. It's quite effective because as you'll see on the video, the higher the gear, the fewer active gear wheels are used. Take it and use it, I wish I have invented it earlier because I would be putting it in pretty much everything. Instructions: http://sariel.pl/down/4speed-sequential-gearbox-v1-1.pdf Quote
Jeroen Ottens Posted April 2, 2015 Posted April 2, 2015 Very good! Definitely an improvement over v1.0 Really compact and I love the fact that it uses less gears for transmitting the power at higher ratios. By the looks of it the new driving rings are more forgiving than the old ones when it comes to being fully engaged or not, is that right? Quote
Sariel Posted April 2, 2015 Author Posted April 2, 2015 So far they've been always working perfect for me - they're either fully engaged or fully disengaged. This new axle joiner they sit on works definitely better than the ribbed or smooth ones we had to use with the old driving rings. Quote
Lipko Posted April 2, 2015 Posted April 2, 2015 I think I will take it and use it. I didn't start working on the gearing of my sequential gearbox, I'm surprised that it's almost the same as the gearboxes I use for the regular H shifting (the only difference in the regular gearbox I use is that it has a 24 and 20-teeth gear axle instead of the 8 and 16-teeth gear axle). Quote
BusterHaus Posted April 2, 2015 Posted April 2, 2015 This looks really great, thanks for providing instructions. The red selectors looked a bit wobbly since the 3L tan axle is only supported on one side - does that affect performance? You could add a 4L axle and extra beam to the outside of the box. Quote
Sariel Posted April 2, 2015 Author Posted April 2, 2015 You could, but there are no problems with performance the way it is. The connection between gearbox and the shifting mechanism is important, and it's very rigid. Quote
jantjeuh Posted April 2, 2015 Posted April 2, 2015 Great design Sariel, thanks for the instructions! Quote
__________________________ Posted April 2, 2015 Posted April 2, 2015 (edited) I'm going to use this an a small Technic vehicle. I remember thinking your previous design was tall and inefficient (although still one of the best gearbox designs yet). EDIT: can someone make an LXF of this? Edited April 2, 2015 by TheLegoExpert Quote
Lucio Switch Posted April 2, 2015 Posted April 2, 2015 It's really interesting! :thumbup: Can it be used in heavy-duty applications? Quote
Coola1 Posted April 2, 2015 Posted April 2, 2015 Awesome! Definitely gonna try it out whenever I get the new driving rings. Quote
Sariel Posted April 2, 2015 Author Posted April 2, 2015 (edited) EDIT: can someone make an LXF of this? I can't, but since there are instructions anyway, maybe it's not needed? Can it be used in heavy-duty applications? So it seems. Thanks to the three 5x7 frames the gearbox is extremely rigid and won't come apart even under plenty of stress. You will physically break driving rings (happened to me with the old rings) before something else happens. Edited April 2, 2015 by Sariel Quote
Thirdwigg Posted April 2, 2015 Posted April 2, 2015 Excellent. It almost makes me want to make another supercar. Almost. Quote
deehtha Posted April 2, 2015 Posted April 2, 2015 The instructions are great, but it looks like you are missing the that holds the black 20 t gear axle, starting at step 8. Quote
Sariel Posted April 2, 2015 Author Posted April 2, 2015 Good catch, thank you! I'm correcting it right now. Quote
jantjeuh Posted April 2, 2015 Posted April 2, 2015 You will physically break driving rings (happened to me with the old rings) before something else happens. You've broken those old-style red driving rings? Must have been a lot of torque involved then. Quote
Sariel Posted April 2, 2015 Author Posted April 2, 2015 Yes, you see the 4 teeth they use to engage gears? I managed to shave one of them clean off :) Quote
jantjeuh Posted April 2, 2015 Posted April 2, 2015 Damn, what did you do? Stall 2 buggy motors? Quote
Kiwi_Builder Posted April 2, 2015 Posted April 2, 2015 In the instructions on page 2, step 7 it says 3 parts with the hole in the middle at 90 degrees to the rest of them but it only puts 2 on the model Quote
Sariel Posted April 2, 2015 Author Posted April 2, 2015 My bad, it should be 2. I'll correct that, thanks. Quote
Kiwi_Builder Posted April 2, 2015 Posted April 2, 2015 Also I'll be posting an LXF with the new and old driving rings used soon once I complete them Quote
Kiwi_Builder Posted April 2, 2015 Posted April 2, 2015 @TheLegoExpert I have created an LXF for both the standard gearbox design and an LXF for the gearbox design using the old driving rings. NOTE: When using the standard design file replace the 2 wide driving rings and the connector that it sits on with the 3-wide ones, as that LDD doesn't have the new rings in it yet Sariel's 4 Speed RC Gearbox 1.1 Using 2-Wide Driving Rings.lxf Sariel's 4 Speed RC Gearbox 1.1.lxf Quote
__________________________ Posted April 3, 2015 Posted April 3, 2015 @TheLegoExpert I have created an LXF for both the standard gearbox design and an LXF for the gearbox design using the old driving rings. NOTE: When using the standard design file replace the 2 wide driving rings and the connector that it sits on with the 3-wide ones, as that LDD doesn't have the new rings in it yet Thanks, you saved an hour of my life (: Quote
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