question about an easy, compact SNOT technique

[no7erics]

I was wondering if anyone with both of these pieces has tried this SNOT technique. Can you let me know how strong the connection is? I'm really hoping that round tile hole is a tight fit (I seem to think it will, or should be, based solely on my old school 90's LEGO intuition :x)... here's the two pieces followed by my idea in SR3D:

http://www.bricklink.../PL/15535.jpg?1 Tile, Round 2 x 2 with Hole

http://www.bricklink.../PL/87580.jpg?1 Plate, Modified 2 x 2 with Groove and 1 Stud in Center (Jumper)

If this works it'll be perfect for my current MOC! I may even be able to use them side-by-side to make it even stronger. Maybe. I hope :P

There is nothing quite like building with real bricks!!

[Trainmaster247]

The only way to find out I would say would be test and test again

[no7erics]

Oops, I was asking since I haven't got one of those round tiles w/hole through it in real yet :D I have a few of those 2x2 jumper plates from the Republic Cruiser, so I can't test out the technique in real yet :(

[Vorkosigan]

It is a normal firm connection. Should work fine.

Also see this GIF from New Elementary:

http://www.newelementary.com/2014/12/review-lego-10246-detectives-office.html

[rodiziorobs]

Unless you are inserting studs into the hole from both sides (i.e., a 1x1 round plate on each side), it produces a pretty strong connection. If you are putting a stud through each side, they should be hollow, otherwise the word "LEGO" increases the height just enough to weaken the connection.

Using a 2x2 jumper as shown in the picture above, there should be no problem.

Edited March 20, 2015 by rodiziorobs

[no7erics]

It is a normal firm connection. Should work fine.

Also see this GIF from New Elementary:

http://www.newelemen...ves-office.html

Ah, that piece will be useful too! I think Ldraw still doesn't have those round 2x2 jumpers yet though, but the square one will work nicely! Cool GIF too, thanks Vorkosigan!

Unless you are inserting studs into the hole from both sides (i.e., a 1x1 round plate on each side), it produces a pretty strong connection. If you are putting a stud through each side, they should be hollow, otherwise the word "LEGO" increases the height just enough to weaken the connection.

Using a 2x2 jumper as shown in the picture above, there should be no problem.

Thank you, rodiziorobs!! I thought so! Luckily I'll just be going from one 2x6 plate to another (upside down one), but thanks for the additional tip! I've ran across this pronounced "LEGO" logo on the top of studs a few times lately... It's a minor issue, to the point that I'll probably end up sanding them down a little. From one piece to the next, just how pronounced the letters are can vary too, so I don't really mind if I'll have to sand one down here or there.

My main use for this technique is actually just to have a few pieces secured, rather than simply floating there LOL.. Thanks again!