Jump to content
Issues with Images is known, we are working on it. ×

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Sorry if this has been discussed before, but I'm new to the tains forum.

Anyways, I have ideas for power functions components that would make having realistic looking trains easier.

First, the power pack. A thinner one would help building small engines easier, as the current one is 4 wide, it makes building a realistic small shunter impossible. I'm talking about the shunters with small engines that had standing room around the engine.

Second, the IR brick. I have a couple ideas for this. Remake the brick to where it's 2x6 with the IR sensor in the center 2 studs with the connectors on each side; or 2x4 as trains only use one pf connector. Again, this would help with smaller engines and realism, as it would give an extra 2 studs to work with.

Next, a new motor. A small motor could be helpful for powering trains that don't conform to the normal standard of having a set of wheels that turn separately from the engine. Again, could help with shunters, as they have 3 closely set wheels with a blank space in front and behind.

I've had this idea for awhile, but I don't think most will like it. An extension wire, but one end has the wires coming from the top of the brick. It could help in small spaces where you can't have the wire protruding from the side of the connector. Of course you can't stack anything on top, but that's why the other end is a standard connector.

My last idea for a pf part is a sound brick. It could add realism to those that make a model railway. Some actual model engines have sound components, so why can't Lego trains?

Now for my regular parts.

Regular train wheels with an option for a beam connector. This could help for smaller steam engines and shunters. If you look at a shunter, they're powered at the back with a weighted wheel, which turns the regular wheels.

Next, a cross axle made specifically for trains. Going on with the first idea, there can't be a small amount of cross axle protruding from the wheel.

Next, again going with the first idea, a connector for the beam. As the wheels aren't a full stud in depth, and a half stud beam would work best, there should be a connector specific for that.

My last idea is a ladder that's a bit deeper than the current one. One that wouldn't interfere with the previous ideas. 16457298367_4675edffb2_s.jpgScreenshot (1) by xan326, on Flickr That shows the current issue of having a beam and a ladder.

I know these most likely will never happen, but it would be nice if we got more parts that will help with creating realistic engines. Feel free to comment and post your own ideas.

Edited by Xan326
Posted

Just something to get the gears turning in your brain. Forgive me if you're already aware of this.

I could be wrong, but this is the only set that I'm aware of with this setup.

7750 http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=32910

It might be the most beautifully executed train of the 4.5V, 12V era. The key here is to kind of open your mind up to possibilities. They wanted to space the wheels out in a unique fashion so instead of having the the actual motor in the engine. The tender was actually the motor,and the engine was aesthetically the driver of the train. The wire that you see in the pictures.is ONLY to power the front lights on the train.

I realize that this might not be the best solution for some of your ideas, but this could resolve many issues. The other thing that it would do very aptly would be to allow more cars on a train without a second motor at the end, by placing the motor closer to the center. It can also alleviate the issue of using large rear wheels on the engine car or simply having a short ole timey engine. I'm considering using 7715 as one of my PF engines with a coal or utility car behind it housing the batteries and IR receiver.

Posted

Staying within 6 wide trains; small engines with power functions and realism isn't easy to pull off, having both throws off proportions of the engine.

Also I think TLG should start getting away from IR. Bluetooth with NFC quick connect could solve many problems that occur with IR. And the best thing, the components could easily be put into a small form factor, and can be completely concealed unlike the IR components. This could even be easily implemented into the pf train motor, which means less space taken up.

I'm looking to make a powered class 05 shunter, as far as I know those are some of the smallest engines I've seen. The day we can have an engine that small be completely rc is the day we can do anything with Lego trains. My problem is, while sticking to the 6 wide standard, there's no way of making it unless the battery box and IR component can come in specialized colors; that's the reason why thinner components would be beneficial.

Posted

Lego should introduce a Power Functions 9 volt battery box which would be small enough to hide in small form factor and I think they should add Radio Control to Power Functions.

Posted

or 2x4 as trains only use one pf connector.

Yes, please. I was thinking about building a 2nd 7760 as a PF loco and a 2x4 IR receiver was exactly what I was (still am) wishing for.

Posted

Yes, please. I was thinking about building a 2nd 7760 as a PF loco and a 2x4 IR receiver was exactly what I was (still am) wishing for.

Sbrick made their own IR brick that's 4x4 with 4 outputs, TLG has absolutely no excuse as to why they're not making smaller components.

As for Radio Control, Bluetooth could work, but there could be problems with phone interference. On top of whatever protocol for WPAN they could use, NFC would be great for quick connect.

As for motor ideas; a 2x2 small motor would be great for engines that don't use the standard wheel setup (such as shunters) or train engine with studs instead of the block with the single connector on the top. 2x2 small motor would be great for other ideas, such as the crane cars (don't know the official name, just remember them from a Lionel game and old wooden train stuff) or other functional units.

As for my earlier idea for the right angle connector, use something like 8886 or 8871 and use one end as the right angle. Reason being, the connector is over 2 studs long with the plastic end and wire, a true 2x2 piece would be easier for compact models where you don't have the extra stud of space.

Now the battery packs. I don't think much can be done for them. Yes, higher voltage could be helpful, but there would need to be a voltage step down module. And people being people, that one key component can be forgotten, and that would damage the lower voltage components. Though the form factor can be changed from 4x8 to 2x16; longer, yes, but this could work great for some engines that need to be 4 wide with a stud wide walk space around.

Posted

With the exception of the train motor (which uses the previously established 12v/9v form factor), all other PF components are shared across other themes. Perhpas your suggestions need to include these other themes in your thinking. How do the changes improve other themes? Are the changes a replacement or an extra element line? How much backwards compatibility is built into your new form factored elements? Are your new elements an intuitive and obvious addition to the PF range? Are they robust and useful across multiple purposes?

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...