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Posted

Some of you fine folks have asked about the custom rail that I have been making, I have currently make plastic and metal, The plastic is ok but I am still struggling with the restrictions of power functions only, so decided to work only on metal rail.

I am using Aluminum code 250 rail, it comes in 96" lengths and is 1/5 of the price of Nickle silver, however ........it is a challenge to solder / braize. I have to practice a lot to get the technique.

here are the beginnings of the 5 wide switch I am creating.

50ace406-94a9-4088-8770-d88ed9b16bb2.jpg

Posted

Looking good! I take it you can run longer locos on that given it's a more elongated curve?

I sure can, the curve is an R88.

Have you a video to share while you're working on aluminum?

I don't, sorry, I learnt from watching you tube videos, what worked best for me is to wire wool the aluminum shiny, heat it up with a plumbers propane gas torch, dip the solder wire in aluminum flux and they lay the solder on the joint area with the heat on.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I am still going NS due to how hard this stuff is to solder and the word or the street is it dont stay clean. So long term it might be a pain. But nice work just what i have in my head for my ones.

Posted

Not into the whole EVO stuff, I am going to end up going DCC with turtle motors for my switchs.

But loving the smothness of the turnout, cant wait to get some cash to start on mine. All funds going into LUG orders and building a new table for the trains. :-(

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