MOC : Auckland ADK Class DMU

[stu808]

http://en.wikipedia....l_multiple_unit

Right this is my first posting of MOC that is yet to be parted up and ordered.

Also this is my first attempt at a commuter train.

Looking for comments, suggestions, praise, criticisms, money, etc...

A few basic specs about the design-

6-Wide to fit on my layout

Modeled and scaled for 'Minifig' scale to fit in with my other trains

Modeled in the 'MAXX Blue' Colour scheme, the colours they got retired in

Only two train bases long as I feel this is what a Lego commuter train would be. If a inter-city passenger train is three bases long and a cargo train is four long, then a “commuter” would be smaller again. Tried to fit it on one train base, but looked wrong.

Still not overly happy with the underside of the train... may change, or may not if some uppity security guard at Britomart grabs me for attempting to peer under the platform.

Stu :)

[LEGO Train 12 Volts]

Very nice MOC and nice colors combination!

[lightningtiger]

I agree with 'LT12V'.....very nice digital creation there 'stu808' and Brick On LDD On !

[Pizzareno]

Great stuff. It looks good. It is also nice to see more NZR, oops Kiwirail or Tranzmetro or whatever on here! Yay

Do you have other New Zealand rolling stock?

[jtlan]

It looks a bit too small; I get that you're trying to have it fit with your layout, but it looks odd on those bogies. I'd say try lengthening it by one bogie-length (10 studs) between the bogies.

If you're not opposed to it, and there's no extremely narrow tunnels on your line, you might try widening it to 7-wide ... it'll look a bit better proportioned, and you should be able to fit more seats inside.

Last thing: I'd enable the "Outlines on bricks" option in LDD, which will make the render look a bit more like the real thing since it shows the separation between parts. It'll also make it easier for people to advise since it's easier to see how the model is put together.

[Steinkopf]

I like the work you have done so far, I would suggest however that you stretch them out a bit more to between 32 to 36 studs in length, that way you will get a bit more space between the bogies where you can add some details to the underframe. With the train base you are probably best off making a plate built version as it gives you a bit more flexibility to where you can fix the bogies as well as how long you want it, the 28 x 6 train bases are great if you are going 32 studs long as you just have to ad a 2 x 6 plate each end to lengthen it, mind you they are far from cheap in black these days.

[dr_spock]

.

Still not overly happy with the underside of the train... may change, or may not if some uppity security guard at Britomart grabs me for attempting to peer under the platform.

Stu :)

Looks pretty good so far with the blue, yellow, bley colour scheme.

The 24x6 train base plate has 3 holes for the pin on the wheel bogie plate. If you move your bogies to the second hole, you'll get a small 2 stud space to add some undercarriage detail. That would also provide more space between the cars for you to add a diaphram to the second car.

If you're not powering your train with train motors, you can make the bogies shorter. That would also leave more space underneath. Using a 28x6 train base plate will also give you more space but additional costs.

Example: The engine on the left has the bogie plate connect to hole #2. The dummy engine on the right has shorter bogies with 2 studs between wheels instead of 3. It is not using a train base plate.

Amtrak AEM-7AC pulling Cabbage by dr_spock_888, on Flickr

[zephyr1934]

The colors and flow of this build are nice. But I don't understand the right hand unit in the photos, there is a door on what one would think should be the end of the car... or are the left and right hand cars actually the top of what should be a single car? If they are supposed to be a single car, that might be too much of a stretch. Though with only the smallest amount of work it could be a really neat foreshortened pair of cars (kind of like the stumpy Star Wars sets with a single minifig).

[stu808]

Very nice MOC and nice colors combination!

I agree with 'LT12V'.....very nice digital creation there 'stu808' and Brick On LDD On !

Thanks for the positive feedback! That's makes me want to order bits...

Great stuff. It looks good. It is also nice to see more NZR, oops Kiwirail or Tranzmetro or whatever on here! Yay

Do you have other New Zealand rolling stock?

Getting close... try AT (Auckland Transport). Completely different monster from KiwiRail.

No other New Zealand stock or locos, but that might change. Thinking of either doing DC or DX with with Overlander rolling stock

Example-

For your fans of interesting colours; Yellow, black, red loco with light blue carriages and guards van.

...and maybe later a J Class with classic NZR rolling stock.

It looks a bit too small; I get that you're trying to have it fit with your layout, but it looks odd on those bogies. I'd say try lengthening it by one bogie-length (10 studs) between the bogies.

If you're not opposed to it, and there's no extremely narrow tunnels on your line, you might try widening it to 7-wide ... it'll look a bit better proportioned, and you should be able to fit more seats inside.

Last thing: I'd enable the "Outlines on bricks" option in LDD, which will make the render look a bit more like the real thing since it shows the separation between parts. It'll also make it easier for people to advise since it's easier to see how the model is put together.

It's 'spose to look small, but you're right about the bogies.... massive rethink going down at the moment.

I hear what your saying but I'm being a stubborn one here. 6-Wide! Yes there are no narrow tunnels here in Auckland, but on my layout plan there is a narrow tunnel... and a helix.

Thanks for the 'Outlines'' advice! I'll post more pictures with both options when I've attacked the bogies...

I like the work you have done so far, I would suggest however that you stretch them out a bit more to between 32 to 36 studs in length, that way you will get a bit more space between the bogies where you can add some details to the underframe. With the train base you are probably best off making a plate built version as it gives you a bit more flexibility to where you can fix the bogies as well as how long you want it, the 28 x 6 train bases are great if you are going 32 studs long as you just have to ad a 2 x 6 plate each end to lengthen it, mind you they are far from cheap in black these days.

Looks pretty good so far with the blue, yellow, bley colour scheme.

The 24x6 train base plate has 3 holes for the pin on the wheel bogie plate. If you move your bogies to the second hole, you'll get a small 2 stud space to add some undercarriage detail. That would also provide more space between the cars for you to add a diaphram to the second car.

If you're not powering your train with train motors, you can make the bogies shorter. That would also leave more space underneath. Using a 28x6 train base plate will also give you more space but additional costs.

Example: The engine on the left has the bogie plate connect to hole #2. The dummy engine on the right has shorter bogies with 2 studs between wheels instead of 3. It is not using a train base plate.

Amtrak AEM-7AC pulling Cabbage by dr_spock_888, on Flickr

The colors and flow of this build are nice. But I don't understand the right hand unit in the photos, there is a door on what one would think should be the end of the car... or are the left and right hand cars actually the top of what should be a single car? If they are supposed to be a single car, that might be too much of a stretch. Though with only the smallest amount of work it could be a really neat foreshortened pair of cars (kind of like the stumpy Star Wars sets with a single minifig).

After reading reading the last three posts I have decided to lengthen it out from two 24x6s, but only to two 28x6s. I'm being a bit of stickler for "toy effect" here.

Your right Zephyr! The doors on the end are just wrong, in a jandals and socks sort of a way. That will be corrected.

Shortening the bogies is now must after reading your guys posts, which got me thinking. I am going to add PF to this train and rather than use the standard train motor, maybe use a smaller Technics type motor, then MOC up a custom motorized bogie. Not sure where to start... but stay tuned.

Also thinking about underside details, one idea I had is to use non-Lego battery packs and have two 3xAAA packs under each train base.

A big THANKS to all for you creative feedback so far! Dare I say, more is welcome.

Stu :)

[Pizzareno]

I wonder if most readers will get the jandals and socks reference. I laughed at that for a while

I have wanted to build a DC for the longest time. I took a stab at it away back with 12v motors. I've got some pictures somewhere and can find one if you are interested. Colours aren't right though. It was 6-wide and a test to see if I could sort of make it work. Now I build in 8-wide I need to redesign the whole thing and make the bogies longer. Somehow even with all the great resources here and on Flickr I can never seem to make powered triple axle bogies work. I'd like to see what you come up with.

Edited February 16, 2015 by Pizzareno