[WIP] Southern Pacific inspired diesel engine

[snowvictim]

=== UPDATE ===

So the parts arrived today. I managed to get most in parts in 1 order, but there's still a few things left to put on the train. Anyway, here are the photos:

As you can see, I'm missing 16 2x1 Dark Blue Curved Slopes, 12 2x2 Dark Blue Curved Slopes, 16 2x1 Dark Bluish Gray Slope Grilles, 2 2x2 Dark Bluish Gray Plates, some Dark Bluish Gray Bricks for the bottom, 4 3x2 Dark Bluish Gray Plates with Pinholes on 1 end, and 1 more 9V Motor. I'm also going to need a shedload more of 9V straight tracks, but I already found those so they'll be arriving shortly.

=== END OF UPDATE ===

Hi folks!

This is my first train build. I used LDD and then I'm going to order the parts from BrickLink. I bet this engine is going to cost me a fortune - the dark blue parts are hard to come by and are quite expensive relative to other colours. But I'm dedicated to this project so what the hell. I built and 8-wide diesel engine based on a Southern Pacific engine I saw. Please note that this is my first train engine build so go easy on the hate. Constructive comments are welcome - I honestly had no idea what to put in this engine. Looked up some pics and just went along with what looked good in my opinion. Here are the pictures:

Note: there are no wheels etc. on this train because I don't feel comfortable doing them in LDD. It's quite annoying for that bit. I'll build them with actual Lego pieces and then post the entire base for the engine in this thread as I already have the parts for that. Also, I'll be getting custom decals done. They'll probably be in Polish since I want to keep this project "patriotic", despite this train being based off an American one and containing a strong American colour motive. I just really liked the Southern Pacific train and wanted to build something similar. I could scrap the dark blue elements and use white or red in order to make it more Polish, but the dark blue just composes so well.

Older pictures:

Edited September 29, 2014 by snowvictim

[Redimus]

Doesn't look bad for a first build.

Mine wasn't anything special, and despite modifying it extensively since, it still looks more like a toy than a model (more so than yours does), but that doesn't matter. Without designing and building it, I wouldn't have learnt what I needed to know to build the loco in my sig. No matter how it turns out, cherish it, because you'll learn so much that you wouldn't have learnt otherwise.

Keep up the good work!

[snowvictim]

Doesn't look bad for a first build.

Mine wasn't anything special, and despite modifying it extensively since, it still looks more like a toy than a model (more so than yours does), but that doesn't matter. Without designing and building it, I wouldn't have learnt what I needed to know to build the loco in my sig. No matter how it turns out, cherish it, because you'll learn so much that you wouldn't have learnt otherwise.

Keep up the good work!

Thanks! Have you got any idea how these long trains do on normal turns (4 curved tracks)? I was thinking because they're longer and the wheels are further apart they will require a longer curve to turn. I'm planning to hook this badboy up to my 9V setup when he's done but my current track layout isn't that long (putting all money in assembling him, will have to buy 9V tracks later).

[Redimus]

Your biggest problem will probably turn out to be less that wont fit round the track and more that it'll hit whatever scenery you have sat next to the track around the sharp toy curves Lego track has. It also depends how far out the bogies are at either end (you don't want them too close to the center as it makes coupling and the end overhang a problem). Seeing as you have the bits already for the undercarriage, I'd do some experimenting, see what you can get away with. I've generally found it's a good idea to mock up in LDD a chassis for anything I'm not sure about, build it with whatever Lego I have lying around, and then go from there. As you're building a diesel, it's not so important to get the undercarriage spot on before going on to design the main body, but I'd still recommend you do some real life tests before committing to all the parts for the rest of it.

Are you sticking to 4 wheeled bogies or going with the more prototypical (and awkward) 6 wheeled bogies?

Edited September 23, 2014 by Redimus

[snowvictim]

Your biggest problem will probably turn out to be less that wont fit round the track and more that it'll hit whatever scenery you have sat next to the track around the sharp toy curves Lego track has. It also depends how far out the bogies are at either end (you don't want them too close to the center as it makes coupling and the end overhang a problem). Seeing as you have the bits already for the undercarriage, I'd do some experimenting, see what you can get away with. I've generally found it's a good idea to mock up in LDD a chassis for anything I'm not sure about, build it with whatever Lego I have lying around, and then go from there. As you're building a diesel, it's not so important to get the undercarriage spot on before going on to design the main body, but I'd still recommend you do some real life tests before committing to all the parts for the rest of it.

Are you sticking to 4 wheeled bogies or going with the more prototypical (and awkward) 6 wheeled bogies?

I'm definitely going for 4 wheel bogies. Makes turning much easier. Besides, I think it just looks better anyway. Just ordered most of the parts (the whole model is 600, got 572) off BL for a surprising $68.84 (excludes shipping costs)!

[Redimus]

The trick with 6 wheel bogies is to either build in a pivot link for the last two or to build a sliding mechanism for the middle two (although obviously you'll struck to use a 9v power bogie in that case!), but I can full understand you deciding not to go to the hassle.

[snowvictim]

Just thought I'd give a quick update on the train. All the parts for the engine have been ordered apart from the wheels and underplate elements. I'm not going to use the elements I already have, instead I'm building a dedicated base for this train (which it definitely deserves). I'm going to track down the necessary parts for the underbase in the afternoon. Meanwhile, here's the complete engine:

[AirborneAFOL]

Without designing and building it, I wouldn't have learnt what I needed to know to build the loco in my sig. No matter how it turns out, cherish it, because you'll learn so much that you wouldn't have learnt otherwise.

Apologies for the non-sequitir here, but this comment is remarkably inspiring and I just have to call it out.

Having rediscovered Lego less than a year ago, and picked up the Cargo Train as my first forray into trains (I'm a City guy) less than 2 months ago - I've been tinkering with trains recently. You're one of a handful of guys I follow fairly closely on this forum, Redimus, as a truly gifted train expert. Suffice it to say my tinkering with a custom passenger car for my Cargo Train has been slow going and rife with frustrations - but this quote is amongst the most encouraging and inspiring I've come across. And it's so very true. Every time I spend an hour, only to scrap what I had started to build (no LLD for me), I do learn a tiny bit more than helps improve my next effort (or sends me to hunt down a particular brick or two I discover is needed).

On behalf of what I assume is scores of "lurk often, post scarcely" novice builders, thank you Redimus for your mentoring insights - and thanks to guys like snowvictim who have the courage to break the ice and share their early builds!

[snowvictim]

In the end it's going to be a bit different. The dark bluish grey slopes beneath the train base will be white, and the motors themselves will be the black 9V train motors.

Don't know why but I decided to make passenger cars for this train.

Edited September 23, 2014 by snowvictim

[cgarison]

The details along the bottom of the passenger car are very nice. Nice work.

[snowvictim]

Thanks, I might be building the passenger cars soon. Updated the topic with pictures of the actual build.

[Redimus]

Looking good.

[snowvictim]

Wow... I hooked this bad boy with a provisional drive system. Installed two 9V motors and tried to get him to go through a relatively straight layout with some curves. He managed the straights, obviously, the minor curves went fine, but the 90 degrees turns didn't go that well. I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to adopt Lego9VTrainFan's long-curve system, involving an ENORMOUS amount of straight tracks... which basically translates into an ENORMOUS amount of money...

[Redimus]

What's causing the problems on the curves? Is it simply falling off or is it causing whatever it's pulling to fall off?

[snowvictim]

The motors don't have enough area to turn. I might have to do some tweaking to the underbase and the components on it. That or doing the long straight-rail curves.

[Redimus]

Odd. On my last MOC I gave the motor part a stud's space and that was plenty, it looks like yours has at least that. Or is it the top of the bogie clipping the sides?

Edited September 30, 2014 by Redimus

[zephyr1934]

Wow... I hooked this bad boy with a provisional drive system. Installed two 9V motors and tried to get him to go through a relatively straight layout with some curves. He managed the straights, obviously, the minor curves went fine, but the 90 degrees turns didn't go that well. I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to adopt Lego9VTrainFan's long-curve system, involving an ENORMOUS amount of straight tracks... which basically translates into an ENORMOUS amount of money...

Not sure if you want to go there, the long curve design has terrible power loss. Fine for PF, but not so good for 9v. Though given the size of your engine, you should be able to hide PF with little problems.

The motors don't have enough area to turn. I might have to do some tweaking to the underbase and the components on it. That or doing the long straight-rail curves.

Yeah, try rebuilding the underside first. I wouldn't be surprised with the length of your engine that the motors are catching on the underside of the train base. It is a lot cheaper. Perhaps replacing the train bases with 6x plates would be sufficient. Of course before you shop for parts, try it out with any old plates you might have lying around.

[LEGO Train 12 Volts]

May you share a better picture (I mean with more light) of the locomotive from the point of view of the bogies?

[snowvictim]

Right, I've found the problem. It's not the bogies, they turn fine. It's the length of the train. It's too long to make the curves. I've found the solution is to make the curves on a C-S-C-S-C-S-C (C = curved track, S = straight track), which allows this big bastard to actually make the 90 degree turn. I'll upload a video soon because the motion of the train on the curves is so hilarious, you've got to see it for yourself. It looks like a snake. Here are some pics:

Borrowed 2x 9V motors from my Red Engine and 4511 HST. It looks better with the light grey wheel covers so I'll be ordering those.

By the time the front motor is halfway through the curve the rear motor hasn't even started to turn.

But I've got to say, this bull pulls 4 Horizon Express carriages without breaking a sweat.

Wow, I've just ordered the parts for the first carriage, turned out about $73. I'm planning to make 4. He's going to need a separate layout. I might have to dedicate the dough from the Millenium Falcon purely for 9V straight rails and 4x 9V motors. Unless I take a loan. Hard to choose between getting the BNSF, Limited Edish Santa Fe Super Chief, 2003 High-Speed Train, Green Cargo Train (9V), Santa Fe Car OR the parts to make this colossus run.

Edited September 30, 2014 by snowvictim

[dr_spock]

Your train base plates have 3 holes for attaching the boogies. You could try different ones to see if you get more clearance. What does the underside look like?

Edited September 30, 2014 by dr_spock

[snowvictim]

Alright, back with a quick update. First thing not really relevant to this build, but I'm excited about it so I'm going to include it anyway.

Parts for my Yellow Engine have arrived! Woop woop! Now, back to the topic.

Finished the underbase. I've decided to stick with Southern Pacific, got the decals ordered today. They'll be in clear foil, didn't want to have different tones of white. The remaining parts, mostly the dark blue slopes, are arriving tomorrow so I'll have the train completed. I'm trying to get that 10179 sold as quick as possible to get the 9V engines for this badboy.

Added these two stickers. I think they look nice, especially the LEGO one. Gives it that "official sponsor" impression" Mind you, there are also "GV" and "YS" bricks visible in the previous pictures.

I checked my sticker pack. Most of the stickers there didn't match, but I was looking at the Constitution Train Chase ones for quite a while though. They'd match nicely if not for the dark blue motive of the train. Shame...

I've experimented with the designs for the beds in the sleeper carriages. Came up with this, just for the banter.

Edited October 1, 2014 by snowvictim

[legoman666]

Technically, the locomotive could be arbitrarily long and still make sharp Lego curves as long as the trucks have the clearance needed. My latest 2 locomotive are 48 studs and take turns no problem. Turn your locomotive upside down and lay the track on top of the bogies and see what's causing your problems. Switching from standard Lego curves to using straights to make the turn is frankly ridiculous.

[snowvictim]

I know what's causing the problems. The bogies are too far apart. On a standard curve, when the front wheels are halfway through the curve the rear wheels are still 1.5 tracks away from starting to turn. Eventually it reaches the point where the front wheels are pushing in a direction, but the rear wheels still have to go forward - the train therefore can't move anymore. I found what this guy did could be a solution - making the bogies like the ones on the Emerald Night.

[dr_spock]

Are you using two 24x6 train bases together? I tried it and it is too long to negotiate curves. The boogies are hitting the sides of the train base and run out of room to pivot.

[snowvictim]

Are you using two 24x6 train bases together? I tried it and it is too long to negotiate curves. The boogies are hitting the sides of the train base and run out of room to pivot.

Yes, I am. I had a feeling it would be too long.