How Do You Create Trains?
Posted 09 April 2012 - 08:14 AM
Personally I tend to use a CAD program to start a more or less rough outline of the loc/wagon I am building, then do mock-ups of certain key parts (chassis, gear mechanisms etc) go back to the drawing board, to get to the point where the thing looks like what I want. The hard/long part comes next: ordering parts, building the loc/wagon, changing (the many) details that don't work, order more parts etc.
How do you proceed?
Posted 09 April 2012 - 09:37 AM
BSTF Thread: Old trains / Models for sale or visit Bricklink Store
Posted 09 April 2012 - 10:24 AM
Then when we're both happy with the results, we order parts.
After everything arrived, I put it together. Later I may have a better idea to convey something and change it in bricks, this change than gets reflected in my LDD model.
Posted 09 April 2012 - 10:50 AM
First of all, I like to work on getting the proportions right. After that, I almost always concentrate on the front end of the vehicle. Which is much easier with diesels / electric locs... In my experience, steamers require an integral approach since things are much more flowing and predetermined by the way you've implemented each single visual and technical aspect. After I'm done with what I believe is the catchiest visual cue (as noted above, most often that's the front end), I work towards completing the build from that point on, generally leaving all the techy aspects for the end since I like to try out various different approaches and simplify the tech-related things where possible.
By the way, I also use my girlfriend as a guide towards the end of the building process. It's only when she tells me that what I've built does not quite look like the real thing that I also see it and get to redesign the flawed parts. So I must agree, it's nice to have a consultant by your side at all times.
Lebgo: The Bulgarian LUG
Posted 09 April 2012 - 12:19 PM
With locomotives I first work on a key area of the design and work out the rest of the proportions from there, Diesel and Electric locos I start from the cab area and then work on the body, Steam locos I have to tackle two areas working on the chassis and the boiler at the same time. Passenger stock I generally stick to 32 studs in length with some stock going to 36 studs from there I have to work out the placement of windows and seats as these will dictate the amount of minifigs I can fit into a design, after I have that sorted I then look at how much room I have to fit other details such as baggage storage areas. I tend to apply some pretty strict guidelines to my builds such as all seats must be capable of seating a minifig in a comfortable pose, I also like to have opening doors on my stock, the only exception is for designs where an opening door is not suitable for the style or wont fit in the space available, the LBB 2nd Class Clerestory coaches are a prime example in this case.
Freight stock follows similar principals to real life examples such as common length underframes/chassis, 4 wheeled wagons are all built to 18 studs in length whilst bogie stock differs, vans are 32 studs in length, flatcars, gondolas and container flats are built to 28 studs in length. I tend to play around with the fittings until I am happy with the proportions and placement of them. With my van stock they all have opening doors and the interiors are uncluttered so I can fit loads inside them I find this an important feature as I like to be able to create scenes where they are being loaded or unloaded.
Edited by Steinkopf, 09 April 2012 - 12:22 PM.
Posted 09 April 2012 - 01:41 PM
Maybe I'm just a bit old-school (the irony being that I have a Ph.D. in Computer Science and an extensive background in data visualization, 3D CGI and Virtual Reality) but I just find nothing produces a better finished product (for me) than the tactile and visual feedback of tinkering with a tableful of physical parts - building, evaluating and rebuilding as I go.
Besides, the tinker approach invariably means that I buy lots of parts that I don't ultimately use in the finished model so my collection of parts on hand just always seems to go up.
Edited by ShaydDeGrai, 09 April 2012 - 01:42 PM.
I have CuuSoo page with several Lord of the Rings MOCs,
Why not drop by and throw some votes of support my way; the sooner these guys get to 10,000, the sooner TLG can reject them and we can all get on with our lives.
Posted 09 April 2012 - 02:58 PM
I'll start with a design in mind, and work towards it. The last wagons I built were the Consett dock hoppers, and the matching Class 25. The class 25 is a bit unique, as I started out with a paper sketch (!) on graph paper of it, and it actually worked OK as a design. The inspiring elements there were a bag of 2x2 yellow windows in 1999. Since UK engines tend to be GYE (green with Yellow End), that was the inspiration as to building the first loco. The 2nd one was a requirement to be able to control the train on the spiral I had in Newfoundland, along with extensive work on brake vans. Other locos were designed from photos, trying to accheve a look within my existing pallet for the most part, as a lot of my designs are pre brick bay (brick link), so the ways to get pieces were much more limited. I haven't done a lot of train construction in the last 10 years, mostly just running stuff & building occasional new buildings for the town, as well as being busy with work, live steam engines & two sons.
So, for me, CAD is not the way I work...hands on if possible.
Posted 09 April 2012 - 03:24 PM
Edited by legotrainfan, 11 April 2012 - 09:12 PM.
I have spread my dreams under your feet.
Tread softly because you tread on my dreams.
From: "He Wishes for the Cloths of Heaven" by W.B. Yeats
Posted 10 April 2012 - 01:52 AM
Posted 11 April 2012 - 08:45 AM
I tend to build the body first and then try and power locomotives. This is generally the wrong way to proceed :-) I've learnt the hard way with steam locos it's really important to get the wheels sorted out and running reliably first, as it's really hard to make changes later without rebuilding large parts of the frame and body.
I'm a bit of an egotist so I very rarely finish a Moc, since they rarely live up to my expectations. Finished Mocs will either be pulled apart of hang around and get gradually upgraded over time if I like them enough. I might buy parts for a few copies if I'm not too critical of them. Many will be exhibited when my local LTC has a display.
Even finished Mocs rarely get photographed, though I hope to change this.
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