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Direct Coupling of Train Wagons


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#1 efferman

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 12:14 PM

because my super chief is a little bit to fast for the corners i have searched a solution to hold it on the rails. and i think a direct coupling of two waggons, or the locomotive with a waggon should be a simple but effective method.
both trailers are using the same pivot point and the same two axles. the pivot point is going till the roof , so the waggons cant lean ot of the corner.
i made a simple testwaggon to test the cornering


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i think it works good enough to get a try with a full train

have someone tried this before?

Edited by efferman, 06 April 2012 - 12:19 PM.

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#2 MetroiD

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 12:24 PM

Yep, I've tried that sort of tapered connection for a tram MOC I was working on. Shared bogie / close coupling techniques are generally quite a practical solution when you want to get rid of the regular coupling for some reason. Good job on that, happy to see it's working for you!

Here's another example for shared bogies I've seen recently, which also claims that the original author of this approach is Jason Allemann with his O-Train, as was my initial understanding.

As you can tell, close coupling works perfectly well for Allemann's O-Train, even though the approach is different, so I can't see why it wouldn't be a safe bet for you as well :) Good luck!
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#3 LegoMyMamma

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 12:30 PM

View Postefferman, on 06 April 2012 - 12:14 PM, said:

because my super chief is a little bit to fast for the corners i have searched a solution to hold it on the rails. and i think a direct coupling of two waggons, or the locomotive with a waggon should be a simple but effective method.
both trailers are using the same pivot point and the same two axles. the pivot point is going till the roof , so the waggons cant lean ot of the corner.

i think it works good enough to get a try with a full train

have someone tried this before?

This is a very long train using a flex method; this image is from "Bricks By The Bay" event in San Francisco, CA, USA:

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BBTB 2012: Trains 3 by Bill Ward's Brickpile, on Flickr

There are more photos of this particular train in the set on Bill's Flickr.  I'm not sure if there are instructions or a break-down of parts placement somewhere.  I just saw your topic and remembered seeing this -- hope it helps  :classic:

#4 efferman

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 12:33 PM

how i should describe it? the center of gravity is very high on my chief, so the top is leaning out of the corner. when the pivot point is a fixed connection fom the bottom to the roof, the wholöe train is in corners a counterweight. this is hopefully avoiding the leaning ot of the corners and the roll over on full speed.

@LegoMyMamma thanks for the link. it is a nice train and inspiration

Edited by efferman, 06 April 2012 - 12:37 PM.

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#5 Hrw-Amen

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 11:32 AM

It may be an obvious answer, but could you not just run it a bit slower?

#6 efferman

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 12:48 PM

sure i can do it, but there is playing a small kid (not me, iam a big kid) with my trains and this small individiuum thinks a little bit digital. full or nothing.
And at some track combinations this results in high speed railroad accidents  :devil:
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#7 peterab

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Posted 08 April 2012 - 01:31 AM

View Postefferman, on 07 April 2012 - 12:48 PM, said:

sure i can do it, but there is playing a small kid (not me, iam a big kid) with my trains and this small individiuum thinks a little bit digital. full or nothing.
And at some track combinations this results in high speed railroad accidents  :devil:

LEGO trains are designed to crash on the highest speeds because kids like it. I guess you've figured that out though :-) I'm curious if the fixed coupling will work, please let us know the result.

#8 efferman

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Posted 13 May 2012 - 09:15 PM

it works, but it needs a well balanced axle load to avoid traction problems. my actual version goes with full speed through corners.
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a vid will come next days
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#9 Jay Sathe

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Posted 14 May 2012 - 05:24 AM

View Postefferman, on 13 May 2012 - 09:15 PM, said:

it works, but it needs a well balanced axle load to avoid traction problems. my actual version goes with full speed through corners.

Is that triple powered?

#10 Steinkopf

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Posted 14 May 2012 - 12:25 PM

I am really keen on seeing the video of the locomotive in action as well as photos of it showing the side profile, I have always been keen on doing a Tri Bo locomotive similar to the RhB Ge 6/6, but I have never bothered to sit down and spend time working out the articulation, if it does work well the LBB might just acquire a similar locomotive  :wink: .

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Edited by Steinkopf, 14 May 2012 - 12:27 PM.


#11 efferman

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Posted 14 May 2012 - 06:29 PM

View PostJay Sathe, on 14 May 2012 - 05:24 AM, said:

Is that triple powered?
curently is only one train motor included. maybe a white japanese train will have more powered axles  :wink:


View PostSteinkopf, on 14 May 2012 - 12:25 PM, said:

I am really keen on seeing the video of the locomotive in action as well as photos of it showing the side profile, I have always been keen on doing a Tri Bo locomotive similar to the RhB Ge 6/6, but I have never bothered to sit down and spend time working out the articulation, if it does work well the LBB might just acquire a similar locomotive  :wink: .

it is a relative simple setup, only to find the correct axle load is a little bit tricky.
here is a little bit action

both trains had the same speed and the vid has no speed up
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#12 Andy Glascott

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Posted 14 May 2012 - 08:35 PM

Wouldn't another easy solution be to bank the curves? I regularly place a 1x2 plate on the outside end of sleepers/ties in corners. Keeps the speed up and the train on the track.

Andy

#13 LEGO Train 12 Volts

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Posted 14 May 2012 - 10:10 PM

Very nice technique!  :thumbup:
...but when I saw the video at 0:11 I said "ouch" for that locomotive on the ground!  :laugh:
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#14 efferman

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 02:40 PM

View PostAndy Glascott, on 14 May 2012 - 08:35 PM, said:

Wouldn't another easy solution be to bank the curves? I regularly place a 1x2 plate on the outside end of sleepers/ties in corners. Keeps the speed up and the train on the track.

Andy
it is surely an option, but i like technical solutions.

@ lego train 12 volts
no problem for my chief, it is built solid
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#15 Andy Glascott

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 02:59 PM

View Postefferman, on 15 May 2012 - 02:40 PM, said:

it is surely an option, but i like technical solutions.


Fair enough.

#16 Ashi Valkoinen

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Posted 17 May 2012 - 08:22 PM

What is the maximal length between the Jacobs-boogie and normal boogie, if I try to build the first version? (Picture one in the first post)
Is it possible to use this technique with three Jacobs-boogies in a row?

If it works, maybe I'll make a try on my Stadler FLIRT.
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#17 efferman

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Posted 17 May 2012 - 08:57 PM

i hope i understand you correct
between the sections over the bogie and the other sections on my yellow locomotive i have a half stud space between the sections. but the corners of the middle section should be round to avoid a collision.
And i think there is no limit for the count of bogies if the surface under the tracks is flat.

btw. nice train
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#18 Ashi Valkoinen

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Posted 17 May 2012 - 11:49 PM

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And i think there is no limit for the count of bogies if the surface under the tracks is flat.
Ohh, won't work. Except one exhibition I've never met perfect conditions and flat tracks.

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btw. nice train
Thanks, there is a small description in my MOC topic about this creation. Maybe someday I'll find a working and closed solution (not traditional close-coupling) for the couplings between train sections.
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#19 efferman

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Posted 18 May 2012 - 05:38 PM

i have found a solution which allows uneven surfaces under the tracks. now i use a horizontal hinge between wagon and bogie hinge point

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the dimensions of the coupling cover is depending of the length and width of the wagons, so everyone must find the best cover for the gap between the wagons if he use different dimensions
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