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#1 Rail Co

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 05:47 PM

Hello, I have made a Custom 9V Motor. My motor has been put on to my 7938 Passenger Train. It is using a PF motor with the metal wheels.Full 7938 Train_comp_sized.jpg


This is the close up of the bogie.


This is how the power gets into the actual train. I am using little brass pieces with soldered wire onto it.


Thanks, Rail Co

#2 JopieK

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 05:56 PM

Doesn't it stutter or did you include enough capacitors ?!

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#3 Rail Co

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 06:04 PM

I have not tried to use capacitors, but it does stutter when the wheels are not clean. Any ideas for keeping the wheels clean?

Thanks, Rail Co

Edited by Rail Co, 25 March 2012 - 06:04 PM.


#4 Jeroen vW

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Posted 26 March 2012 - 09:21 AM

I don't think the problem is the wheels. More likely that the track isn't clean enough everywhere.
There are several ways to clean the track. If you search for 'clean track' online there are a vast amount of solutions.
Another good idea would be to include a supercap, to prevent stutter.

Now please tell me where did you get those wheels and can i buy some too?
I would very much like to add some to my train.

#5 mikka says

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Posted 26 March 2012 - 10:29 AM

where are the metal wheels from?, i thought these would be fantastic to 9v-ify an emerald night, and keep the pf lge motor...

#6 JopieK

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Posted 26 March 2012 - 06:06 PM

If one has a mill one can make them quite well. Some colleague of mine (mech. engineer) also did it for me. B.t.w. making it able to slip through is important to avoid torque problems in curves.

Posted Image

-== Classic LEGO trains are the best ==-

Do you need replacement stickers for LEGO (reproductions and customs): ministickers.nl

What then about the LEGuanO?!


#7 Rail Co

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Posted 26 March 2012 - 10:43 PM

Well these I actually made, but I got the idea from a guy on Youtube with the name of mirekEnd. Here is the video I got it from:

I am sorry i do not know where to buy these :cry_sad:

Thanks, Rail Co

EDIT:With the problem of stuttering i also have a regular 9V motor and it works perfectly fine?

Edited by Rail Co, 26 March 2012 - 11:35 PM.


#8 LEGO Train 12 Volts

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Posted 27 March 2012 - 06:04 AM

Fantastic project Rail Co.!!!  :wub:
This solution allows new constructive possibilities!
To increase the conductivity you can increase the number of wheels that picks the power from the rails perhaps adding a rear car.
Those metallic wheels are great!
Posted Image   Posted Image

#9 Jeroen vW

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Posted 27 March 2012 - 10:17 AM

Well I have no friends with a mill. Couldn't I buy some wheels from someone here who can make some?
Reading the replies here it seems there would be more people who would like to buy them.
Anyone?

Edited by Jeroen vW, 27 March 2012 - 02:38 PM.


#10 Rail Co

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Posted 27 March 2012 - 11:06 PM

Thanks to all who have said such kind words.  :grin: If anyone has any other suggestions and comments feel free to share them!

#11 LEGO Train 12 Volts

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 06:11 AM

It would be great have an axle splitted by non-conductive material to fit the metal wheels on the same axis
Posted Image   Posted Image

#12 Rail Co

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 10:08 PM

View PostLEGO Train 12 Volts, on 28 March 2012 - 06:11 AM, said:

It would be great have an axle splitted by non-conductive material to fit the metal wheels on the same axis

That is a very good idea but I would not know how to do this.

#13 LEGO Train 12 Volts

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 07:48 PM

I thought of two possible solutions:

1) a plastic axle coated with metal hose (the problem is the final diameter of the axle covered)

2) cut off 3mm from the middle of the metal axle and rejoin it with a small plastic hose (like the ink pipe of BIC pen)

All the best
LT12V :classic:
Posted Image   Posted Image

#14 LiamM32

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Posted 31 March 2012 - 05:41 AM

This is just what I was looking for. It would be nice to have the individual train control and motor power of Power Functions with the low weight (from lack of battery) and unlimited use of 9v.

#15 LEGO Train 12 Volts

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Posted 31 March 2012 - 07:11 AM

...but we need those wheels!  :sweet:
Posted Image   Posted Image

#16 Rail Co

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Posted 01 April 2012 - 07:11 PM

Well, the capacitors did not work...sadly :cry_sad:. Any other suggestions?
If any please let me know. I think it is the wheels though.

Thanks,Rail Co

Edited by Rail Co, 01 April 2012 - 07:12 PM.


#17 Viktor Kovacs

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 01:44 AM

View PostRail Co, on 01 April 2012 - 07:11 PM, said:

Well, the capacitors did not work...sadly :cry_sad:. Any other suggestions?
If any please let me know. I think it is the wheels though.
The problem is that only 2 wheels pick up the power. Since the track is not smooth, sometimes only 3 wheels touch the rails, like a 4 legged table on a rough surface. Usually this contact problem is avoided by using all wheel pickups, like the 9V train motor. This does require split axles or isolator rings between the axles and the wheels. This complicates pickup but gives the best results and this is what lego used for it's 9V system. For you the best would be the same solution that most home made car lighting systems use in the model railway world. That is using 2 bogies with 4 wheels with each bogie picking up only one side. This means that any 3 wheel combinations out of 4 will give 1 good contact with the selected rail and with 2 bogies this means 2 good contacts regardless of track conditions. This also works for turnouts, but pickup safety there could be improved with larger wheelbase bogies (2 or 3 studs between wheels).

just my 2 cents: Viktor

ps: i could use a few of those metal wheels myself...

#18 Impact1

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 05:11 AM

I did something similar a few years back for the lights on a observation car.
test wheel Posted Image
Power pickup Posted Image

I had a few wheels done up in steel by a machinist friend later. But it turns out that Lionel wheels are already a near perfect profile. I bought some at a train convention. Bought an old cabose for $3. And removed a bit of material from the front and back on my belt sander to make them overall thinner.

I wasn't interested in making a 9v motor at the time, as they were still avalible, but the metalwheels could be drilled out, and glue in a technic axle socket, then add a pair of brass leaf spring contacts to a PF train motor.


View PostViktor Kovacs, on 02 April 2012 - 01:44 AM, said:

The problem is that only 2 wheels pick up the power. Since the track is not smooth, sometimes only 3 wheels touch the rails, like a 4 legged table on a rough surface. Usually this contact problem is avoided by using all wheel pickups, like the 9V train motor. This does require split axles or isolator rings between the axles and the wheels. This complicates pickup but gives the best results and this is what lego used for it's 9V system. For you the best would be the same solution that most home made car lighting systems use in the model railway world. That is using 2 bogies with 4 wheels with each bogie picking up only one side. This means that any 3 wheel combinations out of 4 will give 1 good contact with the selected rail and with 2 bogies this means 2 good contacts regardless of track conditions. This also works for turnouts, but pickup safety there could be improved with larger wheelbase bogies (2 or 3 studs between wheels).

just my 2 cents: Viktor

ps: i could use a few of those metal wheels myself...


#19 Rail Co

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 08:51 PM

Hello again, yes I do think it is a problem with the wheels no conducting properly. Sadly I only have 3 wheels at the moment :cry_sad:.
Anyways I think I may put some sort of spring in to push the wheels as far as the will go to get them pressed against the track at all times

#20 Jeroen vW

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 10:36 AM

You could add a supercap. These are high capacity capacitors. They are sort of like a battery, but much faster charging.
Precisely what you need.

Use the powerpickup suggestion from Impact.
You should also add more wheels. And if you make some more, please make a lot more, so all the afols here can buy some from you.



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