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UCS 10221 Mod Episode II: The Modder Strikes Bottom


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#26 mortesv

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 04:25 PM

View Postobiwan1011, on 04 March 2012 - 11:12 AM, said:

Looking at b4p's post reminded me yet again how ugly the original bottom looks and I must agree the SSD should look MUCH better with your bottom. :classic:

Since this is my tenth post to "qualify" for the pm feature, let me contact you via that method for further enquiries.

I have sent you some more detailed pics and suggestion of what bricks you need.

If anyone else needs it I can send it your way - or alternatively post it in this thread.

Cheers

Morten
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#27 Taiphun

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 01:49 AM

Awesome.. I like it.

I prefer it to Anio's MOC because I can keep 10030 intact.  You should post the parts required!

Thanks again for sharing.

#28 mortesv

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 03:17 PM

There are several bricks from the existing bottom that you can use – especially the 12 x 3 wedge plates and a few of the 2 x 4 snot plates.

DISCLAIMER:

Below is a parts list with ROUGH numbers. Right now I don’t have the time to make an accurate list (tear the model apart), but with the bricks below you should be able to recreate all the bottom plates (the two large ones and the two small ones in the back), and extend the A-frame a bit. If you order all the bricks you may end up with some spares of the cheaper/smaller bricks - I tried to err on the side of getting a few spares rather than running out  :classic: . I based the parts list by looking at the model and the pics posted here, so please re-check those blurry pics if you want a completely accurate list  :classic:

Plates:

1 x 2 (20)
1 x 3 (6)
1 x 4 (16)
1 x 6 (8)
1 x 8 (6)
1 x 10 (8)
1 x 12 (10)

2x2 (16)
2x3 (10)
2x4 (20)
2x6 (10)
2x8 (6)
2x10 (6)
2x12 (8)

4x4 (4)
4x6 (at least a dozen – get some of them with on studs only on the edges – for decorative reasons)
4x8 (4)

6x10 (4)
6x12 (preferable with studs only on the edges - just two is needed)


Wedge plates:
6 x 3 (8: 4 left, 4right)
3 x 2 (4: 2 left, 2right)

IMPORTANT:
A lot of flat hinges - look below:
Posted Image
You need 30 of the top one. 10 of the middle one and 20 of the bottom one.
The you should have a few spares and enough to angle the bottom engines.

If you have any questions just fire away  :wink:
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#29 Aeroeza

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 06:52 AM

Awesome! Parts list! Rough is all that's needed. Thank you again good sir...

This was a fun project to contribute to even if it was in a very loose, back seat driver kind of a way. 10221 begged for this treatment and the end result really does look excellent and absolutely complete!

The renders were done to answer questions Mortesv & in particular Fallenangel had about the 'studio' model which is why the scale is smaller than the 19km stated currently by such sources as Wookiepedia etc. No disrespect intended to lovers of 'canon'.

It would be cool to model and render a comparison image of the studio model with Mortesv's final MOD. He'd need to supply me with lot's of measurements and angles however so that may prove unfeasible. Unless I get my act together and MOD my own set....

Hmmm.

...and Fallen, if you're out there mate...  :thumbup:

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#30 mortesv

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 12:40 PM

View PostAeroeza, on 10 March 2012 - 06:52 AM, said:

Awesome! Parts list! Rough is all that's needed. Thank you again good sir...

This was a fun project to contribute to even if it was in a very loose, back seat driver kind of a way. 10221 begged for this treatment and the end result really does look excellent and absolutely complete!

The renders were done to answer questions Mortesv & in particular Fallenangel had about the 'studio' model which is why the scale is smaller than the 19km stated currently by such sources as Wookiepedia etc. No disrespect intended to lovers of 'canon'.

It would be cool to model and render a comparison image of the studio model with Mortesv's final MOD. He'd need to supply me with lot's of measurements and angles however so that may prove unfeasible. Unless I get my act together and MOD my own set....

Hmmm.

...and Fallen, if you're out there mate...  :thumbup:

I have a better idea - what if I take a lot of photos, while standing straight up and you can then calculate the angles :thumbup:   :laugh:

Once again - thanks for the help mate, and I do hope Fallen is out there somewhere... - feel free to drop me a mail Fallen!  :wink:
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#31 Taiphun

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Posted 23 May 2012 - 01:25 AM

View Postmortesv, on 10 March 2012 - 12:40 PM, said:

I have a better idea - what if I take a lot of photos, while standing straight up and you can then calculate the angles :thumbup:   :laugh:

Once again - thanks for the help mate, and I do hope Fallen is out there somewhere... - feel free to drop me a mail Fallen!  :wink:


Well, the Dark Council did approve of adding a second SSD to the fleet, so I commissioned one during the May 5th sale.  I hope my droids can salvage any usable parts from the Kuat/Fondor/Loronar/Rendili ship yards for your mod.

#32 skayen

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Posted 08 July 2012 - 08:31 AM

Hi,

I came across your thread when linked from a discussion of my own Lego SSD :-)

I see that you've also correctly angled the forward engines along the hull.  One of the clues that TLG 10221's lower hull is flat is that the engines are parallel to all the other engines (and many other people's MOCs also keep the front engines parallel...!).

I also like what you've done with the rear engines, too.  One of the problems with my model is that the slope of the bracket from the top of the ship to the engines is too shallow on mine, but you've really nailed yours---and it lines up nicely with the edge of the hull plate.  Your greebling is also very nice, particularly the detail invoked by the set of spanners holding the bar along the side.

However, I think the last picture in the link illustrating the profile of your model really showcases how much it's improved over the TLG's version: your version has lost the hunch-back look of TLG version, replacing it with the arrow-head-esque profile.  I like it ;-)

The only problem with working without instructions is that now you can't disassemble and reassemble your model =/

Nice work. Much kudos and respect :-)

cheers
John

#33 mortesv

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Posted 08 July 2012 - 09:43 AM

View Postskayen, on 08 July 2012 - 08:31 AM, said:

Hi,

I came across your thread when linked from a discussion of my own Lego SSD :-)

I see that you've also correctly angled the forward engines along the hull.  One of the clues that TLG 10221's lower hull is flat is that the engines are parallel to all the other engines (and many other people's MOCs also keep the front engines parallel...!).

I also like what you've done with the rear engines, too.  One of the problems with my model is that the slope of the bracket from the top of the ship to the engines is too shallow on mine, but you've really nailed yours---and it lines up nicely with the edge of the hull plate.  Your greebling is also very nice, particularly the detail invoked by the set of spanners holding the bar along the side.

However, I think the last picture in the link illustrating the profile of your model really showcases how much it's improved over the TLG's version: your version has lost the hunch-back look of TLG version, replacing it with the arrow-head-esque profile.  I like it ;-)

The only problem with working without instructions is that now you can't disassemble and reassemble your model =/

Nice work. Much kudos and respect :-)

cheers
John


Thanks for the kind words :blush:

Yes, we seem to be the only ones caring to slope our forward engines  :laugh:

I have actually lowered the end of the city a bit more since these pictures were taken - making the model sleeker still. I have also added a bit more detail to parts of the engine section - mainly to make the forward, sloping engines look more integrated into the model.

Regarding disassembling, you're right. It would be a bit troublesome, but I might have to do one day to make instructions  :wink:

PM me if you want more/new pics of the model

Cheers
Morten
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#34 GeOrc

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Posted 05 November 2012 - 12:02 PM

Hi Morten,
I just have bought my own SSd 10221 Model Kit and patiently it will wait until next weekend for its construction. However I already have started looking for modifying the vessel because I´m not so happy with some parts of the original. During my search for references I found your impressive variant. I have to say I really liek what you have done on the SSD and it looks absolutly authentic! That´s why I like yours most so far because it based on the original kit and everything closer to the original movie version have to be constructed from scratch in my opinion. Perhaps this will be a future option for me but because I just have started again with constucting LEGO (I collected LEGO Space in the 80´s as a child and quit in the early 90´s) I will start with the original kit and like to follow your modfications. I already started to reconstruct some of your conversions in LEGO Digital Designer to get a detailed idea what bricks are needed. Partly this worked very well but in some cases some more detailed pistures for reference would be very good. That´s why I would ask you if you could PM me some more detailed pics of your SSD, so that I´m able to continue my virtual construction and enlarging my shopping list :)
Many thanks for sharing your excellent SDD model.

Kind Regards from Germany

Georg

#35 mortesv

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Posted 09 November 2012 - 12:04 PM

Hi Georg, thanks for the kind words.

You can find more shots - of several of my ongoing UCS mods - here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/mortesv/

I have a problem that I have a hard time stopping modding my models :tongue: - I often find a new detail I want to add. In regards to the SSD, I have bought several hundreds (much more than 500 anyway) bricks and changed many fundamentals of the model - so I would say that it is probably as much of a MOC by now as it is a mod. However this is not to discourage you. Building the original is a rewarding experience and I got a lot of ideas how to make things different along the way. For me it was one thing at a time; lowering the profile, removing the minifig bridge, removing the bottom while still maintaining stability. Adding details and greebles - researching the film model etc.

I think you can make all the changes much faster than I did because the "research" has been done.

Take take a look a my flickr and let me know what you need :sweet:

CHeers

Morten
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#36 Bob De Quatre

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Posted 09 November 2012 - 12:20 PM

On the latest pics it seems you added a transparent support for the tail. Did that part ofyour MOC experience issues with gravity?

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#37 mortesv

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Posted 09 November 2012 - 12:46 PM

View PostBob De Quatre, on 09 November 2012 - 12:20 PM, said:

On the latest pics it seems you added a transparent support for the tail. Did that part ofyour MOC experience issues with gravity?

Well is was a bit of a precaution. I have added hundreds of extra bricks to the area so the rear is somewhat heavier than the original - furthermore I also elongated the end a bit. My experience with the UCS ISD tells me that even though initially very stable, long spans tend to begin sacking over the years - the core technic bricks simply begins to bend. Since I intend to keeps this model until my dying breath I am playing it safe :tongue:


@ GeOrc, I will post more shots of the SD on my flickr as soon as I get home today :)

I continue to mod it from time to time. When Lego some day makes a 5 * 2 wedge I'll be really happy :)
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#38 Bob De Quatre

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Posted 09 November 2012 - 02:17 PM

View Postmortesv, on 09 November 2012 - 12:46 PM, said:

Well is was a bit of a precaution. I have added hundreds of extra bricks to the area so the rear is somewhat heavier than the original - furthermore I also elongated the end a bit. My experience with the UCS ISD tells me that even though initially very stable, long spans tend to begin sacking over the years - the core technic bricks simply begins to bend. Since I intend to keeps this model until my dying breath I am playing it safe :tongue:

So you have the same problem as me... I've started thinking not to display my SSD horizontaly but at an angle that will reduce the strain of gravity. Maybe I'll try something this week end.

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#39 mortesv

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Posted 09 November 2012 - 05:13 PM

View PostBob De Quatre, on 09 November 2012 - 02:17 PM, said:

So you have the same problem as me... I've started thinking not to display my SSD horizontaly but at an angle that will reduce the strain of gravity. Maybe I'll try something this week end.

Ah, that is a neat idea! I have also added an extra leg to my UCS ISD - that is also very modded and heavy. Although it began sacking way before I modded it :)
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#40 Mr Man

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Posted 09 November 2012 - 07:30 PM

Gravity, that's why you are meant to construct them in a space drive yard :wink:.
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#41 GeOrc

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Posted 09 November 2012 - 10:32 PM

Hey Morten,
many thanks for the link and the additional pics.
And many thanks for the inspiration... and no fear I won´t be discouraged, more motivated. I hae some ideas by myself to improve the model and I see a lot of room for a future discussion about parts and modifications :) I´m happiely looking forward to tomarrow building my model. The first deliveries with parts for the modifications have already arrived and I can´t wait to start my own SSD MOD.
The last days I have studeied your model and also translated your bottom modification in LDD

Attached File  SSD - MOD - Bottom Hull.lxf   12.44K   102 downloads

I don´t know if you use LDD by yourself, if so I would be thankful if you could take a look if the size and parts are correct. I understand that you connected the areas with the hinges. would this be enough because as I understand and see correctly you only fixed them on the outside frame. Do you have some link in the middle of areas? How these stay in place? Also a view which is missing is how you created the space around the rear collumn and the end of the bottom wings. I can see on the pics that you modified the collumns and the middle hull end was modified and placed with angles as well. It would be nice to have a closer look at this part.

The modification most difficult to understand in the moment is how you replaced the minifig bridge. If you find the time it would be nice to learn more how you start, what ideas you have and how you receiced your result.

The more I studied your model the more I have to say that this is truely inspirational. I think more questions will appear as soon as the active part has started. Many thanks for your support and for sharing your creativity.
Kind Regards
Georg

#42 mortesv

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Posted 10 November 2012 - 12:44 AM

View PostGeOrc, on 09 November 2012 - 10:32 PM, said:

Hey Morten,
many thanks for the link and the additional pics.
And many thanks for the inspiration... and no fear I won´t be discouraged, more motivated. I hae some ideas by myself to improve the model and I see a lot of room for a future discussion about parts and modifications :) I´m happiely looking forward to tomarrow building my model. The first deliveries with parts for the modifications have already arrived and I can´t wait to start my own SSD MOD.
The last days I have studeied your model and also translated your bottom modification in LDD

Attachment SSD - MOD - Bottom Hull.lxf

I don´t know if you use LDD by yourself, if so I would be thankful if you could take a look if the size and parts are correct. I understand that you connected the areas with the hinges. would this be enough because as I understand and see correctly you only fixed them on the outside frame. Do you have some link in the middle of areas? How these stay in place? Also a view which is missing is how you created the space around the rear collumn and the end of the bottom wings. I can see on the pics that you modified the collumns and the middle hull end was modified and placed with angles as well. It would be nice to have a closer look at this part.

The modification most difficult to understand in the moment is how you replaced the minifig bridge. If you find the time it would be nice to learn more how you start, what ideas you have and how you receiced your result.

The more I studied your model the more I have to say that this is truely inspirational. I think more questions will appear as soon as the active part has started. Many thanks for your support and for sharing your creativity.
Kind Regards
Georg

Your LLD looks amazing!

I cant wait until you get started on this - I am already contemplating how I could tweak the model further, so I look very much forward to your ideas! :wink:

Quick note: some places I have not used the optimal bricks simply because I did no have them at the time. Since you have recreated everything faithfully there are a few places where I have used two shorter plates instead of one longer. However it haven't posed a problem so far, so you should be ok :).

If you look at my newest pics, you see that the "fins" taper a bit more now, but that is quickly changed using a 3 x 12 wedge and some smaller plates.

Regarding the hinges they somehow fit the plates in a way they almost hold them up by themselves... Well since the leg is just at the center of where the two plates meet I modified that to hold them in place. Initially I didn't think it was the most elegant solution, but neither is a big leg going into the model, so since is is already there I might as well use it :sweet: I'll post more pics of this on flickr asap.

The minifig bridge was sacrificed when lowering the entire city by removing plates. The model is still hollow under the city but there is no room for the silly bridge anymore :classic:

Looking forward to you progress!

Cheers

Morten

Edited by mortesv, 10 November 2012 - 12:22 PM.

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#43 GeOrc

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Posted 18 November 2012 - 12:23 PM

Hi Morten,
thanks for your nice words. Meanwhile I have built my SSD and also already added your bottom. How already mentioned in my own topic:

http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=76132

I hade some problems, especially with stability. By these problems the idea was born of a second hull layer which could improve the whole structure. Additionally I had my problems with the column hull connection. In the moment the column is an artefact based on a flat hull design. I asked myself if a column modification is possible which can carry the SSD freely, but that´s a problem to be solved after a hull is designed which will make this necessary. Therefore I go back into the LDD and based on your original design I added a second layer of plates, added plates in the column position, connected the hull with the fin tail and tried to design everything with nearly correct angles compared to your hull study. Here is my first DRAFT:

Attached File  SSD - MOD - Bottom Hull_rebuild-GD.lxf   15.88K   63 downloads

you can see that there are som ugly gaps at the fin tail and at the engine cut-out. There could be also a problem withe these, cause I don´t know if the cut-out is big enough that these will still fit in. I tried to use the original construction as a reference but it opens up due to the added angle of the hull. However it´s a first design which could be improved by some iterations. Also it´s only a virtual design... I don´t know if it would work in practice. A further problem coud be that the hull has now to much weight and that the hinges are perhaps no longer able to hold it in place. Perhaps here a new linking method would be needed for example something similiar to the engine section - frame connection. Additionally there would be need for some armature inside the SSD forcing the weight through the hull plate towards a newly designed column.

Ok, so far my first ideas while walking on your path. Let me know what you think and I´m really looking forward to the discussion with you and all the SSD fans here.

Kind Regards
Georg

Edited by GeOrc, 18 November 2012 - 12:25 PM.


#44 Seifer

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Posted 18 January 2013 - 03:50 PM

Hi Morten
I just love your design for the SSD and it made me thinking of buying this awsome ship and modding it myself. Actually that is one of the main reasons I came to this forum - to talk and get ideas to build fun stuff.
Anyway, since I'm not allowed to send PMs until post 10, if you're still around these foums just reply to my post... I have tons of questions I'd like to ask you :)

Edited by Seifer, 18 January 2013 - 03:54 PM.


#45 mortesv

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Posted 22 January 2013 - 10:17 AM

View PostSeifer, on 18 January 2013 - 03:50 PM, said:

Hi Morten
I just love your design for the SSD and it made me thinking of buying this awsome ship and modding it myself. Actually that is one of the main reasons I came to this forum - to talk and get ideas to build fun stuff.
Anyway, since I'm not allowed to send PMs until post 10, if you're still around these foums just reply to my post... I have tons of questions I'd like to ask you :)

Hi Seifer, thanks for the nice comments - just PM me when you can :)
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#46 jamilion

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 07:48 PM

Hello, I'm a dad who returned to the world of Lego when my daughter asked for a set for Christmas. Last week, as a birthday treat for myself, I bought this Super Star Destroyer. Holy moly, what an experience. Not the simple models I remembered as a boy. It was an incredible feeling, I felt the designer was teaching me what could be done with the bricks I had taken for granted for decades. I wasn't sure I had the stamina or ability to even get through the instructions, let alone consider a mod. But here I am, feeling like I've built half the ship I remembered. While I may be a decades-lapsed bricklayer, I have these three films memorized.

What a joy to open Google, and find you wonderful people, who not only saw the same almost-there issue, and Morten, you actually solved it. Truly amazing! My first challenge was fixing the flaring nose, which I did by reseating the black square pieces that hold the gray rods down. Next is dealing with the flat base. I have my SSD displayed on top of an Ikea Expedit bookcase, which I believe you Georg have done. So I see the bottom easily. I really must fix it!

But before I go off following your modding pictures and buying parts on BrickLink (or is it better to buy parts by the pound on eBay and see what's missing?), I have the world's most basic question. In part due to the fact that I'm fairly color blind. But is light bluish gray the same as light gray? Which color should I be trying to match to the SSD? Also, Morten, in your parts list above, does that include the pieces found in the existing flat bottom, or are those additional pieces I will need?

Thank you so much!

Jamil

(first post)

#47 Lobot

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 08:06 PM

Hi Jamil & welcome to Eurobricks!

Firstly, I'd recommend Bricklink (link here) or Lego's PAB (link here) if you're looking to buy more than a handful of parts.  Lego's PAB is generally more expensive but they have fixed shipping charges which can be very helpful!

'Light Grey' is the older version and 'Light-Bluish Grey' (or LBG) is the newer colour - this is used in all current sets including the SSD! It's the same with the darker grey: 'Old grey' = older version whilst 'Dark-Bluish Grey' is the new (and current) colour also used in the SSD.

I hope that this helps.

Cheers, Robin :classic:

#48 jamilion

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 08:49 PM

Thanks Robin! Great to be here.

And thanks for the Lego PAB link. They only seem to have Medium Stone Grey as a color (viewing from the US region). Would I be correct in assuming that this MSG color is the same as LBG? So if I do end up buying some from BrickLink and some from PAB, they'll look identical?

It does seem however that PAB doesn't have nearly the selection of BrickLink, it doesn't have any of the special parts Morten lists out above. So I'm not sure it's a good one-stop shop for me. The hinges don't seem to exist in LBG, but since they're hidden, I think I'll be okay with standard light grey for them.

Jamil

Edited by jamilion, 16 March 2013 - 08:50 PM.


#49 Lobot

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 09:05 PM

Hi Jamil

Yes, sorry I should have mentioned that LBG = Medium Stone Grey!

Bricklink is generally better value that PAB & it does have a better selection of parts, but sometimes PAB is cheaper....it just depends what you're after.  Also if you buy from Lego you're guaranteed to get new & shiny parts & their delivery times are very fast.  For example I recently ordered 500+ parts on a Friday evening & it arrived the following Wednesday, even though it was via their 'Standard' shipping option.

I don't know if you've found it but Bricklink has an inventory of most sets, which includes the colours & parts numbers, which might be of use to you. Here's the one for the SSD (link here)

Cheers, Robin :classic:

#50 Brickdoctor

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 09:06 PM

View Postjamilion, on 16 March 2013 - 08:49 PM, said:

And thanks for the Lego PAB link. They only seem to have Medium Stone Grey as a color (viewing from the US region). Would I be correct in assuming that this MSG color is the same as LBG? So if I do end up buying some from BrickLink and some from PAB, they'll look identical?
Yep, Medium Stone Grey is TLG's name for Light Bluish Grey. (and it's called "medium" because there's a rare shade even lighter than that) Hopefully it isn't information overload for a new Fan of LEGO, but there's a very helpful chart on Peeron that lists all the different colors and their Peeron names, Bricklink names, and official TLG names, along with ID numbers and approximate color values.




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