Using Old 12V Metal Rail and PF?

[Lego Otaku]

Since RC train can run on just about all type of tracks (excluding the narrow track such as Indy Jones mine car track), and people have used 9v metal rail without a problem (to power PF and /or recharge PF battery) so I was wondering, can the old 12v conducting rail be used the same way? Surely there's a few dead 12v motor that could be used for pickup. Or rig the 12v pickup plate with an adapter cable that connects the 2 pins to the PF cable.

[hoeij]

Unnecessary quote of entire topic removed by moderator.

You could only use a dead 12v motor if you remove the DC motor that is inside of it. More convenient would be to use item bb53 on bricklink.

The trouble with this idea is that the 12v contact points won't be able to pass 9V/RC switch tracks.

Also, you would have to put the 12v conducting rail along the entire track. If you have them on only a part of the track, and you go from the part with no conducting rail to a part with conducting rail, then the train will get stuck because the 12v contact points won't be able to slide onto the conducting rails.

In other words: this will only work if the train moves only on 12v track.

Edited July 2, 2011 by TheBrickster
Quoting entire topic to reply

[greenmtvince]

Since RC train can run on just about all type of tracks (excluding the narrow track such as Indy Jones mine car track)

Just point of information, Power Functions works well on the Indiana Jones/Alien Mothership track too.

[Lego Otaku]

You could only use a dead 12v motor if you remove the DC motor that is inside of it. More convenient would be to use item bb53 on bricklink.

The trouble with this idea is that the 12v contact points won't be able to pass 9V/RC switch tracks.

Also, you would have to put the 12v conducting rail along the entire track. If you have them on only a part of the track, and you go from the part with no conducting rail to a part with conducting rail, then the train will get stuck because the 12v contact points won't be able to slide onto the conducting rails.

In other words: this will only work if the train moves only on 12v track.

Yeah those could be a problem.

Just point of information, Power Functions works well on the Indiana Jones/Alien Mothership track too.

I am aware of that but the wheel base from 9v/RC/PF will not fit as those are fixed to LEGO gauge track and all of motorized cars as well. One would need to use either the wheel with technic axle or to use older wheel that are connected to a modified 2x4 brick, in order to make them fit narrow tracks. Plus I'd have to use 4.5v or 12v straight track since I don't think LEGO made flat straight version in 4 wide configuration. Only curve and the kooky roller coaster type straight.

[mr_jrt]

You could only use a dead 12v motor if you remove the DC motor that is inside of it. More convenient would be to use item bb53 on bricklink.

The trouble with this idea is that the 12v contact points won't be able to pass 9V/RC switch tracks.

Also, you would have to put the 12v conducting rail along the entire track. If you have them on only a part of the track, and you go from the part with no conducting rail to a part with conducting rail, then the train will get stuck because the 12v contact points won't be able to slide onto the conducting rails.

In other words: this will only work if the train moves only on 12v track.

You can solve the 12v gaps easily with cheese slopes.

...the 9v/PF points on the other hand...more of an issue.

[Toastie]

Also, you would have to put the 12v conducting rail along the entire track.

Hoeij,

that is true, but if you'd use the PF LiPo (with additional bridge rectifier in the "charging" line) you should do fine. On electrified stretches you'd charge, on non-powered track, you won't, but get power off from the LiPo. Assuming you have more 12V electrified track, that should work rather well, right?

Regards,

Thorsten

[hoeij]

...but if you'd use the PF LiPo (with additional bridge rectifier in the "charging" line) you should do fine. On electrified stretches you'd charge, on non-powered track, you won't, but get power off from the LiPo. Assuming you have more 12V electrified track, that should work rather well, right?

Thorsten,

The trouble is that the train can't move from the non-electrified stretch to the electrified stretch, because the power pickups bump into the middle rail and then get stuck.

But, mr_jrt posted a solution to this problem in post #5. I have not tested it, but it looks like a good idea that should work.

It's not clear though how to make the 12V power pickup slide over 9V/RC switches.

[Toastie]

It's not clear though how to make the 12V power pickup slide over 9V/RC switches.

Hoeij,

the cheese slopes - yes, I can see that. With the swítch points you are absolutely right. See, this happens when coming from theory - I never had any 12V stuff (which is too bad).

Did you ever try to "force" the 12V pick-up over a 9V/RC switch point? What happens?

Generally I believe we need a proper 9V pickup in the long run. Maybe also a modified 12V pickup. "I" (well, it is "my" group mechanical engineer in "my" university machine shop) am almost done with the semi-professional grooving of BBB wheels, so we all will be able to purchase M, L, and XL wheels with groove and O-ring from Ben anytime sooner or later. After that we may want to entertain the idea of smarter power pickups, what do you think?

All the best,

Thorsten

Edited July 2, 2011 by Toastie

[LEGO Train 12 Volts]

...after that we may want to entertain the idea of smarter power pickups, what do you think?

All the best,

Thorsten

This sounds great Toastie!

I like your genius!