Thanks everyone for the responses. I 'll soon be making some changes based on your suggestions to get this thing as close to real as possible, or at least until the bricklink order for my next project comes in.
Ralph_S, on 02 April 2011 - 10:32 AM, said:
Perhaps the nose juts out a bit too prominently, but changing that and keeping the studless look is not going to be easy.
I thought the same thing. I tried taking off the roof top slopes mounted on the front to shorten it a bit, but then it looked too boxy. I want it to be shorter but stay curved, so standard slopes are not an option. I may try mounting some 2x4 modified Bricks with curved tops
sideways as they will be shorter, but I'll have to play around with the chin bubbles to make that fit.
I think it is a really nice model, but there are a few things that you might want to look at. I'm not trying to be overly critical here, but I do know a thing or two about building Chinooks
It's alright, this is exactly what I was looking for.
You've obviously taken a good look at photographs or models of the real thing, because you've managed to get a lot of things right, but you have missed one that often confuses people. Production versions of the Chinook have single rear wheels while the front wheels are dual -as they are on your model. I've seen quite a few LEGO models where this was missed. Unfortunately, the prototypes did have dual rear wheels! Nasty, isn't it?
Good one, I didn't notice that. There really are only two different pictures and a video
of the few prototypes, (and even those two are pretty different
) so I must have gotten confused with the photos of the standard production versions I was looking at. I'm thinking of using the slightly larger technic wheels for the front, and then the double airplane wheels at the back to still give it that upward slant.
On my model the chord of the blades is three studs and I see you've done the same, but they look a bit too bulky. I'm fairly certain that the CH-47D has wider blades than the prototypes and your model is quite a bit smaller than mine -mine is too big for minifigs. Have you considered making them just two studs wide?
I tried it with two studs wide, and I was unable to get it to slope down enough for it to look good. With only the two thicknesses of plate to work with, they end up looking kind of flat. It's not entirely accurate though.
I love the way you built the engines. You've chosen just the right parts to get the shape, but I think they do need to be mounted a bit further forward though. The front of the engines should be aligned with the front of the aft rotor pylon.
Thanks. I dint think of moving the engine forward, but I did think of making it a little shorter. I considered using a standard 1x1 cone for the exhaust rather than the light bley palm tree part (which to me seems the perfect thickness but a little too long). I may try lengthening the entire pylon by 1 stud, maybe
two, and moving the engines up a bit.
I also think the front rotor should be mounted a bit further forward. You've got the rotor axis going through the aft part of the front pylon, but is should be located in the front half. The aft part of the side sponsons/ saddle tanks is very blunt on your model. On the real helicopter it is more smoothly faired into the side of the fuselage.
As for the front rotor axle, there is no other place to mount it. The wedge pieces I used to make up the front of the pylon do not have any room to move the axle farther forward, and I haven't thought of a way to achieve that shape with different, more hollow pieces. As for the sponsons, I am realizing that now, and may use the corner slope brick (but upside down) on the part where the aft of the fuselage joins the tank. Ill play around with it tomorrow or the day after and see what looks good.
Thanks for the credit for the window design. It's really not my idea to build windows this was, although until now my Chinook was the only one that I know of that used the design. I'll keep an eye out for new versions of yours. Feel free to drop me a line (either through a PM here or a flickr mail) if you'd like my input.
Thanks for all the tips. Pictures will be up as soon as I work out some of these kinks.