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8110 - Unimog U400 General Discussion


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#76 allanp

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Posted 08 February 2011 - 10:09 PM

Look closely at the red and yellow gearbox switches. One of the switches has either compressor or a rear PTO. The other switch has either a front PTO or a second rear PTO. If you include the forth pneumatic switch that's (correct me if i'm wrong) one pneumatic + one rotary PTO at the front and one pneumatic + TWO rotary PTO's at the back. I know (or guess) one of the rear ones is for the turntable, but what's the second one for?

One more thing. Take a close look at the box art, specifically the three pins that the front wheel clicks onto. Notice how the slots of the pins do NOT point towards the centre of the wheel. Could this be only a slight modification to the existing hub, or could it be a whole new one, possibly even with some form of gear reduction (planetary perhaps) inside, also meaning possible 4WD? This is only wild speculation of course, but if that second PTO is not a PTO it could be for powering the wheels, which would make having some form of gear reduction at the hub very helpful!

Even so, it already looks like an awesome set, I can't wait for it!
Even the best can be made better, but most important is to be excellent to each other and party on dudes!!!!!!

#77 efferman

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Posted 08 February 2011 - 10:28 PM

look between the tires, the axle is too low for a portal axle. I think it is only a 8297 Axle which is blocked to a solid axle, which is mounted like the rear axle of the 8048 Buggy. in the best way it is a 4 link live axle.

#78 Anio

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Posted 08 February 2011 - 10:33 PM

I summarized my whole thought about this model on TB's.

Here is what I wrote :

Quote

- on the last pic, we can see a U-joint on the left of the battery box.
- on the first pic, we can clearly see a CV joint in a very strange position. O_o
- no 11 axle but 9 + connector => roof is stressed.

About the functions :
- no switch. off/on is done with the battery box
- yellow lever : to engage or not the compressor when the M motor works
- the red lever on the right of the yellow lever : a battery box like those we have seen in many other sets. It enables to choose, when the M motor works, between the winch in the front or the turntable at the back.
- the switch on the right of the battery box : this switch is here to bring air at the back for the crane (A-model) or to the front (B-model). So, this switch is here for the truck to be exactly the same, whatever you build the A or the B model. Consequence : for those who will have two copies of this model, they will be able to built and use the blade and the crane on only one truck. In the case if you have 1 copy and build the A-model, this lever will ALWAYS be in the same position.
- the 3 switches at the back : for the crane of course. These swtiches are used in the front when the b-model is built

- manual and independent outriggers.
- HOG to steer the front wheels. fake steering wheel.
- L4 engine, probably with AWD.
- full suspension.
- worm gear on the whinch will prevent using it when gear box is desengaged. That's good (contrary to 8297).
- the turntable will probably not have a clutch gear (I'm 99% sure of it). So, we will have to be careful because of the 6 hoses.

Quote

And here are the 4WD :
Posted Image

We can see the teeth of a diff (28t).
If there is a diff on the front axle, it's absolutely certain there is also one on the rear axle.

=> 4WD.


edit : and when I see how the back is built, I would even say that I'm convinced that the 24t of the turntable is driven by a worm gear.

Edited by Anio, 08 February 2011 - 10:49 PM.


#79 AndyC

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Posted 08 February 2011 - 11:05 PM

 allanp, on 08 February 2011 - 10:09 PM, said:

Look closely at the red and yellow gearbox switches. One of the switches has either compressor or a rear PTO. The other switch has either a front PTO or a second rear PTO. If you include the forth pneumatic switch that's (correct me if i'm wrong) one pneumatic + one rotary PTO at the front and one pneumatic + TWO rotary PTO's at the back. I know (or guess) one of the rear ones is for the turntable, but what's the second one for?

Surely the first switch selects between power going to the compressor or to the PTO. The second switch selects either the front or rear PTO. The third switch selects either the front or rear pneumatic take off. Which implies a single PTO and Pneumatic take off at either end.
Posted Image

#80 RockeTeK

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Posted 08 February 2011 - 11:30 PM

Could someone please explain the terms "Power Take Off" and "Puematic Take Off" (both denoted as PTO, how confusing!) ?

Ty

#81 onebigmob

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Posted 08 February 2011 - 11:58 PM

 Dutch_EE, on 08 February 2011 - 08:47 PM, said:

The reason for the second PTO is the turntable. As can be seen from the picture that includes the switches, the turntable can be controlled separately by the yellow switch, the 'standard' PTO is controlled by the red switch.

Sadly, because the compressor is also controlled via the yellow switch, it isn't possible to work with the pneumatics in the crane and turn the crane at the same time  :sceptic:

OK, I believe it works like this:
The yellow switch is to choose either PTO or pneumatics. The two red switches are used to divert the powersource chosen with the yellow switch either to the front or to the back of the vechicle. If this is the case (this theory depends on the colour of the two "red" switches, and I am colourblind..., but the same colour should imply the same kind of function, and red was used in 8043 in kind of the same way, to choose between sets of functions), the next step should be to convert the gearbox so the red switch chooses either to drive only the PTO or both the PTO and the compressor (like in 8421 where you either control the string, or both the string and the length of the boom at the same time). If we don't want power to either PTO, we just put the red switch in neutral...

If we fit a security valve somewhere in the pneumatic system, the motor can drive the compressor continuosly, and the red switch decides whether or not to use the PTO.
While we're at converting the gearbox, I would like the direction of the PTO's to be maneuvered by the gearbox, and not by that awful, stiff switch on the battery box, which is impossible to put in neutral in a smooth way. At least, the first thing I will do is putting one of the PF switches between the battery box and the motor.

Besides all this, I really like that all the switches are put in the open, not hidden behind some panels, like in some of the recent flagships (8258, 8285), and that all switches are placed at the same side of the vehicle. It makes it so much easier to control.

Well, just my thoughts.

#82 DLuders

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 01:58 AM

 RockeTeK, on 08 February 2011 - 11:30 PM, said:

Could someone please explain the terms "Power Take Off" and "Puematic Take Off" (both denoted as PTO, how confusing!) ?

Wikipedia explains what "Power Take Off" (PTO) is.   :classic:  Recommend clicking on the hyperlink for more explanation and pictures.  Lego uses pneumatic (air) hoses instead of hydraulic (oil) hoses on their models, but REAL TRACTORS use Hydraulics. Here is the short version:

"Power take-off or power takeoff (PTO) is a splined driveshaft, usually on a tractor or truck, that can be used to provide power to an attachment or separate machine. It is designed to be easily connected and disconnected. The power take-off allows implements to draw energy from the tractor's engine."

"Modern tractors use a power take-off (PTO) shaft to provide rotary power to machinery that may be stationary or pulled. The PTO shaft generally is at the rear of the tractor, and can be connected to an implement that is either towed by a drawbar or a three-point hitch. This eliminates the need for a separate implement-mounted power source, which is almost never seen in modern farm equipment.  Virtually all modern tractors can also provide external hydraulic fluid and electrical power to the equipment they are towing, either by hoses or wires."

Edited by DLuders, 09 February 2011 - 01:59 AM.


#83 Crtlego

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 02:52 AM

I had to go on Wikipedia as well when I wanted to learn about PTO.. :tongue:

I have to say when I first saw the real pictures I kind of got mixed feelings.. :sceptic: Don't get me wrong.. I STILL LOVE THE SET!! And I think its going to be awesome but when we first got that listing saying "Unimog U400" I think my brain was imagining way too much.. :tongue: Orange is awesome! So are pneumatics! So are those tires!! But I feel as if there's something missing in it.. It looks like the actual model they had there was like a draft or something.. Like it was incomplete.. I don't know.. But that's what I felt..

Now to get to down to business..:thumbup:

I saw what looked like differentials in both the back and the front axles and they seem like they are the new ones.. especially since the ones in the rear seem to be in the relatively new open frame piece.. This would eliminate the possibility of a worm gear, which was mentioned somewhere... but wouldn't make sense in the first place since the car does not move by itself.. Somebody has to move it..

The suspension looks awesome and the front does not look like the typical setup that we found in the 8297 Offroader.. It is definitely slanted.. like someone already said... and has a cv joint going to it somewhere..

Also. In the back.. Is it just me or is there some gear reduction in the rear axle.. After the open frame where the differential is it looks like there are some gears but that wouldn't make any sense because like I said.. This model is meant to be moved by the user not by some motor on the inside...

Now about me possibly getting this. If I wasn't like broke I probably would get this or possibly a couple of them.. :wink: But as for right now I probably couldn't. I probably try to make my own version just for the fun of it and add in some RC components including drive and steering.. possibly adjustable suspension? And then I would use the 8297 tires which are more appropriate for an offroad truck..

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#84 Zblj

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 09:58 AM

I wonder if there will be a third older styled differential between axles like by 8466.

#85 AndroTech

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 05:26 PM

Hello all you Technic fans. Much is already known, about new Lego Unimog, so now we can compare it, with the original. As we can all see, the Lego made a very good copy of the original, look at all these details. Almost only thing that bothers me, are those gray wheels, instead of black. Everything else is excellent. Do you agree?


Original Unimog:

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VS.

Lego unimog:

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And here are some suggestions for MOD-s:


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And something for Jurgen Krooshoop, for his ''Ultimate Unimog'':

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What do you think Jurgen, is it doable?  :laugh:

Edited by Povratnik, 09 February 2011 - 05:29 PM.

Technic once, Technic forever ! ... and now trains ...
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#86 efferman

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 05:52 PM

yes i agree, the 8110 is exactly so ugly as the original U400

#87 grohl

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 06:17 PM

 efferman, on 09 February 2011 - 05:52 PM, said:

yes i agree, the 8110 is exactly so ugly as the original U400
:laugh: True, but I am buying it for the parts and the functions, so this will not bother me for long.

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#88 efferman

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 06:23 PM

the drivers cab is absolutely no problem.
Posted Image
first what i do with the 8110, is to place this cab on it

#89 dr_spock

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 06:35 PM

It is not that bad.  I guess they need the big front windshield and low hood for driver visibility in order not to mow over any squirrel or people. Changing the cab would be a nice modification.  It's Lego, you can customize to your heart's contend. :classic:

#90 JunkstyleGio

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 07:27 PM

Fine work on the cabin...

But with the change from ORANGE to yellow the set looses much of its appeal...

Ugly or not; I LOVE ORANGE!

Edited by JunkstyleGio, 09 February 2011 - 07:28 PM.

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#91 efferman

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 07:32 PM

You are right.
maybe my cabin is possible with the parts from the 8110.

#92 Parax

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 08:48 PM

 AndyC, on 08 February 2011 - 11:05 PM, said:

Surely the first switch selects between power going to the compressor or to the PTO. The second switch selects either the front or rear PTO. The third switch selects either the front or rear pneumatic take off. Which implies a single PTO and Pneumatic take off at either end.

Yes I agree, yellow is rotary or pneumatic function, then red switch for rotary to front or rear and a second red switch for pneumatic to front or rear.

I hate to cast a dark cloud but if this set does not have motor drive (which I think we have established it does not) and it does not have an engine with pistons/cylinders (I have not seen one yet in the photos or box art, have you?) why would it have any form of axle drive at all? as much as I hate to say it I see no reason to have any diffs or new uj's at all. Like 8069 excavator or 8053 Crane! Lego usually only put diffs there if it drives an engine (or function in 8274 Combine harvester) or is driven by a motor.

We can only hope that there is an option to motorize by adding another motor.

P.

Edited by Parax, 09 February 2011 - 09:01 PM.


#93 Anio

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 09:16 PM

Posted Image Posted Image

#94 Parax

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 09:19 PM

 Parax, on 09 February 2011 - 08:48 PM, said:

Yes I agree, yellow is rotary or pneumatic function, then red switch for rotary to front or rear and a second red switch for pneumatic to front or rear.

I hate to cast a dark cloud but if this set does not have motor drive (which I think we have established it does not) and it does not have an engine with pistons/cylinders (I have not seen one yet in the photos or box art, have you?) why would it have any form of axle drive at all? as much as I hate to say it I see no reason to have any diffs or new uj's at all. Like 8069 excavator or 8053 Crane! Lego usually only put diffs there if it drives an engine (or function in 8274 Combine harvester) or is driven by a motor.

We can only hope that there is an option to motorize by adding another motor.

P.

OK having looked again there is an engine under the cab so fingers crossed and new glasses...
Posted Image
P.

Edited by Parax, 09 February 2011 - 09:22 PM.


#95 allanp

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 10:15 PM

In one of the photo's, someone with a very good eye has also pointed out there is a diff in the front axle, you can see some of the teeth!
Even the best can be made better, but most important is to be excellent to each other and party on dudes!!!!!!

#96 technic_bg

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 10:25 PM

Strange a bit: Box art image shows pins in the wheels, and on display model the slots seem empty, wheels standing there on magic or what...?


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#97 Pauger

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 10:31 PM

You're right. Weird :look:

#98 hga09

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 11:05 PM

Are those orange pistons in the engine? *oh2*

Blue pistons (which only came in the 8461 and a service pack until now) would have provided a nice contrast with the orange shell...

 Parax, on 09 February 2011 - 09:19 PM, said:

OK having looked again there is an engine under the cab so fingers crossed and new glasses...
Posted Image
P.


#99 AndyC

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 11:35 PM

 hga09, on 09 February 2011 - 11:05 PM, said:

Are those orange pistons in the engine? *oh2*

They look like the ordinary yellow ones to me.
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#100 grohl

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 11:36 PM

 technic_bg, on 09 February 2011 - 10:25 PM, said:

Strange a bit: Box art image shows pins in the wheels, and on display model the slots seem empty, wheels standing there on magic or what...?
I think the reason is more obvious and simple. The wheel has slipped from the part that holds it.

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