I think that this technique may indeed work well on a larger ship. My goal with the smaller ship is to determine its viability for creating small brick-built hulls. There are a lot of techniques for larger brick-built hulls, and in general the larger you make a ship, the more flexibility is gained. Creating small brick-built hulls that look convincing seems to be an open problem. The best evidence of that is how the vote for the Best Lego Sailing Ships (Minifig Illusion Scale) is dominated by prefabricated hulls.
In any case, if you want to try using this technique, you're going to need to understand the geometry involved.
The framing technique uses 5/4/3 pythagorean triangles.
Here's a frame I've created for illustration purposes. It uses the old style hinges due to their geometric properties. I don't believe that using the old style hinges is strictly necessary, but it makes life much easier because they take up very little space and you don't need to make many allowances for them. For a really large ship you might consider using technic pins instead since they'd be much stronger.
The bottom three hinges form two 5/4/3 triangles side by side. The "5" is the diagonal side, and it is 2.5 studs (25 units) long. The "3" is the horizontal side, and it is 1.5 studs (15 units) long. The "4" is the vertical side, which is 2 studs (20 units) long.
The top two hinges (they're completely unnecessary, but they show that you can place more hinges at regular intervals) simply double the triangles. Note that the middle hinges exploit the hollow studs of the old style hinges, which are offset by half a stud on the yellow 1x3s.
This method for creating a frame works well, but sometimes you can't fit those hinges in there without making your frame too wide. This is of particular concern when you're making a small ship. That's ok, because there are other places you can put your hinges to retain a rigid structure with the same geometry.
Here are some of them:
This technique also uses 5/4/3 triangles, but they're oriented a bit differently. The "5" is now the vertical side, which is 5 studs (50 units) long. Because 50 does not divide by 4 evenly, there is a old grey Dalek brick (10 units) to fix our numbers. The "4" is the diagonal side, which is 4 studs (40 units) long. The "3" is also diagonal and perpendicular to the "4" side. It is 3 studs (30 units), and thus needs the old grey rocket bricks to even things out (1 rocket brick + 5 plates [you must include one half of the thickness of each hinge in your calculation] = 30 units).
Note that this pattern is also repeatable - another hinge can be placed on the center line another 50 units up. Additionally, two small triangles can be created using additional hinges so that the frame can be attached to our vertical structure. Since these triangles alone can make our structure rigid, the bottom hinge can be completely removed if the profile of the ship's hull calls for it.
Now we have two frames, we can attach them together.
This doesn't look like much, but because our frames have a consistent geometry, they fit together exactly. We can attach them along the diagonal sides, or along the vertical middle. We can build as many frames as we want, and they can have any profile we want, as long as we make them rigid. The more connections we create between the frames, the stronger our structure becomes. We can design the ship as a series of frames, and once the lines are satisfactory, we can start attaching "planks" to the frames, and we have a hull. The orientation of the frames means that we can do this with much less investment in slopes, and we don't need a SNOT interface part way up the hull to switch from "bottom" to "side". The diagonal orientation of the studs gives us a approximation of the hull of a ship (a V shape) which can be adapted for the appropriate part of the ship. The issue of tumblehome on a larger ship definitely needs to be addressed, but this could be done with any number of existing techniques, be it "free" hinged sections or slopes.
There is most definitely a lower limit on how small you can make a frame (the hinges must go somewhere, and you must place them very carefully), which is why the bows of my prototype ship is simply SNOT. The larger your ship is, the less this will impact you.
I hope this helps.