Posted 24 November 2010 - 10:09 PM
Last week I was showing my modest fleet of digital and real ships to a friend who recently acquired a mass of assorted bricks and seems to be taking an interest. After comparing my simplistic physical models to my digital designs he all but challenged me to a build off. As a result I decided to tear down my old “Snake” and rebuild her more in the fashion of my digital designs. As I’ve been saying for some time, my supply of bricks in limited and it was quite a task scrounging up what I could and making a lot of the wrong parts work. Though there are some obvious errors and imperfections, I’m quite pleased with the project so far. I’ve only been at about 12 hrs so far, counting parts hunting time. I am happy to say that my hull building technique holds up in live bricks with the addition of only a few pieces, such as the pillars below deck, which I usually omit for the sake of space in the digital environment, where gravity doesn’t matter. She is far from finished and there are many more parts to hunt down.
Seen here is the original, “Snake” a tiny 6-gun privateer, which was never quite finished, lacking a mizzen topmast.
Pictured here is the incomplete new HMHV Snake, now a much larger and closer to accurate 16-gun snow brig, again serving as a privateer.
The design of the new snake is not unlike Cochran’s HMS Speedy, the real world inspiration for Jack Aubrey’s first command HMS Sophie. HMHV is the British abbreviation at that time for a privateer in the employment of the royal navy (His Majesty’s Hired Vessel)Apologies for the low quality images, better pictures will be taken as the project progresses.
Posted 17 March 2011 - 04:51 PM
I like the curve in the lines on the side and the colourscheme so far.
The masts are also placed in the right position and of the right lenght.
But there are three small things that can be improved IMO:
- The curve is a bit too edgy (I mean the curve in the widening of the deck).
I think it will look better already if you make the widest part of the same widt as the part in fron and behind it.
You could also make it smoother with widening it by 1/2 stud at the time, like CGH did.
- My other tip is to place the mast parts above the crow's nest a bit forward, instead of just above, the mast section below it.
On the main mast you already did it, but you can also do it on the foremast and the bowsprit.
- And on most ships the stern is protruding a bit more (instead of less) than the rudder. I think it would look better like this:
This may seem like a lot of criticism, but in fact there are only 3 small points. Outside of those I think your ship looks very good.
So keep it up
Read the site guidelines
Index of helpful tutorials
Posted 26 March 2011 - 02:11 PM
I would suggest using a ifferent technique for the masts, for example technique connectors for the upper section like Admiral Croissant and myself did.
Also your bow is narrowing far to quickly; it should be much wider.
Of course some haedrails and a proper stern with windows and ornaments would be nice too!
But you're doing a good job here, with real Lego!
"The better is the enemy of the good." - Voltaire
Posted 29 March 2011 - 09:38 PM
Firstly I’ll thank you to keep comments like that to your self. Frankly I despise such an attitude and find your sentiment rude and insulting. Perhaps you should check out darth yogi’s thread, “WIP HMS Valentine “ where I already made my “soap box” speech on the subject.
I find you‘re off base on all points. This is foremost a “proof of concept” experiment in my own style, there would be little point in utilizing other’s methods where I’m trying to prove the validity of my own, wouldn’t you agree? Never mind my fondness for Vesta and Achlle. I have studied carefully over as many examples of period ships that could, from drafts, to models to photographs of surviving and replica vessels. I have no lack of confidence that the shape of my hull is spot on. This is especially so where the limitations of my brick supply is concerned. Simply put, I am making Snake from what I have available, not what may be necessary. As for head rails, they are honestly a ridiculous notion on a vessel of this size, particularly as it has no head. Something more decorative and period appropriate will be done with the prow to be sure, but head rails, no. The same goes for a sweeping stern gallery. This is simply too small and simple of a vessel for such luxuries.
As stated before, I’m working with what I have, If I had enough center stud plates to make the half steps you describe, it might smooth the hull out some, but since I do not, I’m fine with her as is
As for the stern I take your point but alas I haven’t the pieces I’d like to use to create such an effect, so again she is what she is. I did scrounge up two more inverted roof pieces to bring the over hang out to the edges and it looks better, but still not quite.
To anyone else observing, please keep in mind this isn’t a great man-of-war. Snake is a tiny privateer, likely made from a merchant vessel. She wouldn’t have room for great guns, large internal space or even a proper head. A small snow brig of this type would be cramped and would likely toss about like a cork on even a light swell, but she’d be fast and sail close to the wind. She’s not on the high seas to make war, yardarm to yardarm, exchanging broad sides with frigates and ships of the line. She’s a Pirate, sticking close to shipping lanes, blending in with merchant traffic till she luffs up and bears down on her unsuspecting prey, clearing the decks with carronades and small arms fire.
I haven’t much progress to show this week, I’m not entirely satisfied with any thing I changed, or added. I haven’t the cones I wanted to make the quarterdeck rail, hence the gray place holders, nor is the gun wall anything but awkward. The prow is still just thrown together, still haven’t decided on a design there. The only thing I really have decided on was to use a windlass on the focsle rather that a capstan amid ship, to save on space. Yes this is a totally regular thing for a vessel of this size and period, that being of the very late 18th to early 19th century. Capstans were typically made of heavy metals and or wood, and were anchored down through the decks, adding a great deal to the vessel’s burden. Use of a wooden windlass like this would save on weight and deck space, good for a privateer that needs to move quickly. As it stands, I either need to decide between a good hull and terrible yards, or breaking down and ordering bricks. If I add to the gun wall as I think needs to be I doubt I’ll have enough materials to assemble the rest of the rigging. For the moment I think I’ll concentrate on finishing up the lower portions of Snake and consider cannibalizing parts from other projects later.
Start of Update in Album
Posted 29 March 2011 - 10:18 PM
I like what you did with the parts available to you ... just a suggestion for the masts, since your ship already reminded me of the Baltimore Clippers, why didn't you try something like that ...
Put the masts on and and put a plate in between for hinge-parts for the right angle. to stablize is, try to build a small "guardrail" around, something like that:
(picture by Phred)
Don't know how this "guardrail" is actually called, since I'm a nautic analphabet...
I tried the same construction today for the "The Caribbean Queen" and it does work great... but since my handycam makes blurry pictures too, you would only see black
So, hope I could help with a constructed feedback
Edited by Aalak, 29 March 2011 - 10:18 PM.
Posted 29 June 2011 - 11:17 AM
is called a 'fife rails'
that is when its situated on deck like in that picture
when its connected to the bulwark i.e. the ships side
its called a 'pin rail'
so far the showing-of of my nautical vocabulary
I think your ship looks good, it looks like you know what you want.
I'm looking forward to see it develop.
Posted 30 July 2011 - 07:01 AM
Posted 30 July 2011 - 07:30 AM
More Pictures of Snake in my Photobucket album
I’ve almost built the entire model from what I have on hand, much scavenged from other builds. I have two bricks I just can’t find one more of and regret I may have to buckle down and just order them . In both cases the offending components occur on the starboard side. One is the all too obvious stern window in gray, the other a white 1X1 brick with side studs on all four sides, the hub on one that side of the windlass.
Edited by kurigan, 31 July 2011 - 07:04 AM.
Posted 30 July 2011 - 08:33 AM
I never put any foremast backstays on my little schooner, only shrouds. I just ran a stay from the top of the foremast to the top of the mainmast, and then set up a pair of running backstays for the mainmast that I could adjust by wrapping them around railing supports. I'm not sure if it's historically accurate or anything like that, but it meant that I could tighten up the whole rig just with the running backstays. I found that there wasn't much point in trying to get it really drum tight, but just to get the slackness out. In any event, it seems like you need one set of stays or the other to be adjustable without retying knots, otherwise it's like herding cats.
Posted 30 July 2011 - 09:47 AM
Avalonia Trading Company
Posted 30 August 2011 - 10:47 AM
But anyway, you made a real nice ship with extraordanary details for it´s relatively small size. Also the rigging looks beautifull. I´d love to see your first seabattle between this and your new one
P.S.: I really like your attitude on building. You build for fun and don´t care for people who wanna make Lego-building a stupid competetion.
Posted 30 October 2011 - 01:46 AM
Posted 04 November 2011 - 03:05 AM
Posted 26 January 2012 - 10:35 PM
Firstly I found the pieces I needed to improve her astern. Using hinged bricks to set the rear most wall on an angle, rather than relying on inverted roof tiles as before. There is still a hitch where the red stripe breaks at the railing, but the overall effect is a definite improvement and I’m sure the Admiral will be pleased.
At the head, I reworked the prow to be more accurately shaped and sized for this vessel and decided to try out some head rails. I vehemently disagreed with Perfectionist on this point before, but after studying a lot more models and drawing of ships of this type I’ve changed my mind. Though there is still too little space for a head with a convenient seat of ease, it seems it was quite fashionable for vessels of this size to wear head rails as decoration as well as false stern galleries. I suppose they were compensating, trying to make their vessels look larger, like ships.
Please don’t mind all the stray rope ends, much of the rigging is only belayed in place and the strings have been left long until I’m certain of these placement.
As always, more pictures on my photobucket, linked in my signature.
Edited by kurigan, 26 January 2012 - 10:36 PM.
Posted 26 January 2012 - 11:39 PM
This is the first time I've actually read through this whole thread and I noticed your completely understandable concern with the slackness in your back-stays. Obviously to solve the problem you need to lay some canvas aloft and let her fill. That should straighten it out straight way. In seriousness though I should think that if you wait to tie the stays in last that you wouldn't need worry about anything else pulling the masts so as to slacken them.
I did have a question about your bowsprit. I've seen ships use the 1x1's, 2x2's (as you have in essence) and the pre-fab pieces. I currently have the pre-fab's on a WIP of mine but I absolutely hate the variously ill-placed protrusions they have for attaching yards when used as a nominal mast. Whilst I hate this one aspect, I find the starting diameter and taper to be just right for the proportions of my ship. I'm inclined to use 1x1's but since they are employed in the yard-arms it doesn't seem right to use something of the same size for the bowsprit. I was curious if you had any apprehension using 2x2 sized pieces for yours? Seeing how she's a smaller sized boat and your current design looks a bit too bulky, to my eyes.
They'll think you weak; despise you in the end."
- Captain Jack Aubrey
Posted 27 January 2012 - 11:00 AM
I think this is going to be a very accurate model once finished.
Perhaps a bit strange that the side window is bigger than the stern windows, but outside of that it's
Keep it up!
Read the site guidelines
Index of helpful tutorials
Posted 27 January 2012 - 12:59 PM
Posted 04 February 2012 - 09:16 PM
On a somewhat simpler note, the windows are just what they are, Admiral. If I had more of the same type I might consider putting bigger windows on the stern but I don’t even have two of the same color, as is. I avoid photographing the starboard side as the grey widow frame on that side is like a pimple of the ships face. I’ve looked for the piece on brick link but haven’t found a seller without a minimum purchase or enough bricks I actually need/want in their inventory to meet the minimum, in order to get one. I’d just as well go without any windows on the back, save that it looks a little strange and it seems that these would still be useful if not as gun ports then as access to the rudder. In time I may find another solution, but for the moment, I’m going to back up to her rigging and forgetting the windows.
This entire project has been a learning experience for me and I’m thoroughly enjoying it. I came into it thinking I knew a lot and expecting to throw an awesome vessel together, only to find how little I did and the vastness of what there was to still learn. Both in terms of ship modeling and Lego building, each new step leads me on path of discovery. Snake and my other ships may not seem the most amazing or fascistic vessels out here, but to me she’s priceless and dear. Thanks to all who have participated and commented on my thread so far.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users